2012+ WR450 Hours Based Maintenence Schedule?


13 replies to this topic
  • mebgardner

Posted January 20, 2014 - 10:43 AM

#1

I have confirmed, in another thread, that the US 2012+ WR450F models do not have an ODO.

 

However, the Users Service Manual gives all service intervals in miles... Doh!

 

Would you folks please give opinion about what would constitue a "proper" service interval guide for a non-competition cycle?

 

 

I have some clues gleans from the FAQ:

 

----------------------------------------------------

 

Q: When/How often should I check the valves?
A: Unless you’re racing, do it right after break in, somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-15 hours. After that, check it once a season. If you flog the bike, do it quarterly. One key point to remember is that the valves must be checked with the engine dead cold. The best way to do this is to let the bike sit for at least 12 hours before checking.

Q: When/How often should I change the oil?
A: With a high revving four stroke, the safest way is every 2 or 3 rides. If you’re riding dunes or in a severely dusty area, after every ride. Better to be safe than sorry.
 

------------------------------------------------------
 

So, "break-in" appears to be around the 10 hr. interval.

 

The "normal" (non-competition) oil / filter change interval appears to be suggested at "2 to 3 rides", which I attempt to suggest is "16 - 24 hours", from a "ride" being a "day" of 8 hours of riding in "non-abusive" riding conditions (no sand or heavy dust / dirt). Say, 20 hrs as an average, then.

 

If riding in sand, mud, heavy dirt, then after every "ride" of, say, 8-10 hrs?

 

How'm I doing?



  • Navaho6

Posted January 20, 2014 - 11:56 AM

#2

I would say break-in occurs in about 2 hours or less.

 

Oil maintenance and valve check as you described looks good.  I use a Hardline hour meter and will change my oil every 15 hours.  We average 17 mph which equates to 255 miles between changes.    I pulled the speedo off.  I don't need it and don't like the speedo cable.  I run a Garmin 60csx gps that gives me all the information I need.

 

If you're riding in dusty conditions, best thing for your bike is a Filter Skin (pre-filter).  Carry a spare or two with you on the trail,  and replace them as needed.   I use them 100% of the time.  Added protection.



  • DRZ04

Posted January 20, 2014 - 09:05 PM

#3

Navaho6 I agree with you on the filter skins. I too use them 100% of the time. I put one on when I service the filter. I can cut down on the frequency I have to service the filter. I have used them for many years for Motox, Trail, and desert. I have never gotten one so dirty that I have to change it on the trail but you sure could pull the skin off & have a clean filter like on a 2 day ride to keep from servicing the filter.



  • mebgardner

Posted January 21, 2014 - 06:40 AM

#4

I would say break-in occurs in about 2 hours or less.

 

Oil maintenance and valve check as you described looks good.  I use a Hardline hour meter and will change my oil every 15 hours.  We average 17 mph which equates to 255 miles between changes.    I pulled the speedo off.  I don't need it and don't like the speedo cable.  I run a Garmin 60csx gps that gives me all the information I need.

 

If you're riding in dusty conditions, best thing for your bike is a Filter Skin (pre-filter).  Carry a spare or two with you on the trail,  and replace them as needed.   I use them 100% of the time.  Added protection.

 

There is a large discrepancy between "2 hrs or less", and the user's service manual of 600 miles for initial service , for a non-competive cycle maintenance schedule.

 

I dont  know which is correct, and have no desire to start an oil thread or "proper break-in" thread.

 

I have no data to support either view (ie: 2 hrs too short, 600 miles too long, but I'm *not* saying 2 hrs is too short, I'm saying I dont know).

 

Does anyone have any hard data (borescope inspections for instance) to support a general 1st / subsequent service interval?



  • Navaho6

Posted January 22, 2014 - 05:23 AM

#5

600 miles would equal about 32 hours on my bike.  That would equate to about 10 rides or 3-4 months for break-in (for me).  The procedure that the manual describes for "break-in"  took me about 1.5 hours.  You know Yamaha is being conservative with the figures for obvious reasons.   I take it easy for the 1st two hours on a new bike, then change the oil and start riding it as normal and changing the oil every 15 hours thereafter.  I'm just trail riding in 2nd and 3rd gear, tight single track, so my engine never gets full throttle. The most important thing is keeping a clean air filter and not going past 300 miles between oil change.


Edited by Navaho6, January 22, 2014 - 05:30 AM.


  • cubera

Posted January 22, 2014 - 07:23 AM

#6

I've got about three hours on the engine now and will change oil and filter before the next ride. These 3 hours are mostly slow going technical one track in the lower three gears but the motor seems to have broken in nicely now. It runs like a champ with the "woods" mapping and yesterday I got 38 miles on the odo with no low fuel light. That means I can probably do around 50 miles of this type of terrain on the stock tank. The motor does not run hot, it starts easily in gear, and is relatively hard to stall. I'm liking it! It is by far the best 450 I've ever ridden in bone stock form (sans throttle stop screw/comp ECU/GYTR exhaust mod). Can't wait to get the springers done and add a couple of extra trinkets. Sorry for the extra verbage. Can't help myself. :ride:  :lol:



  • mebgardner

Posted January 23, 2014 - 10:41 AM

#7

600 miles would equal about 32 hours on my bike.  That would equate to about 10 rides or 3-4 months for break-in (for me).  The procedure that the manual describes for "break-in"  took me about 1.5 hours.  You know Yamaha is being conservative with the figures for obvious reasons.   I take it easy for the 1st two hours on a new bike, then change the oil and start riding it as normal and changing the oil every 15 hours thereafter.  I'm just trail riding in 2nd and 3rd gear, tight single track, so my engine never gets full throttle. The most important thing is keeping a clean air filter and not going past 300 miles between oil change.

 

Thanks!  I believe these methods appropriate.  Dunno about the "procedure the manual describes for break-in", tho.  I thought I remember that being for a cycle to be placed (almost immediately) into racing / competition.  I think I remember the section stating "Now ready to race.", or something very similar to that effect.

 

But, your methods are very conservative, and I applaud you.



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  • mebgardner

Posted January 23, 2014 - 10:46 AM

#8

I've got about three hours on the engine now and will change oil and filter before the next ride. These 3 hours are mostly slow going technical one track in the lower three gears but the motor seems to have broken in nicely now. It runs like a champ with the "woods" mapping and yesterday I got 38 miles on the odo with no low fuel light. That means I can probably do around 50 miles of this type of terrain on the stock tank. The motor does not run hot, it starts easily in gear, and is relatively hard to stall. I'm liking it! It is by far the best 450 I've ever ridden in bone stock form (sans throttle stop screw/comp ECU/GYTR exhaust mod). Can't wait to get the springers done and add a couple of extra trinkets. Sorry for the extra verbage. Can't help myself. :ride:  :lol:

 

I'm grateful that you *did* add the extra verbage.

 

I'm still developing a custom FI map for all my own considerations, and you hit on many of them. (Range, Not Run Hot, Hard to Stall, Easy Start In Gear (as opposed to Neutral).

 

I know off topic, but : Did you use / consider other maps before choosing this one ("Woods")? What "worked out" for you?  What did not?

 

So, Thanks!



  • GuyGraham

Posted January 23, 2014 - 11:06 AM

#9

I do 15hrs for oil changes (with oil filter every other oil change) when used for club racing on H&H events - I have just changed the piston at 6900miles which is about 350hrs as I average 20mph with this regime and the engine was in great condition inside

 

Agreed with above, your engine is run it by 2hrs use.



  • cubera

Posted January 23, 2014 - 11:56 AM

#10

I'm grateful that you *did* add the extra verbage.

 

I'm still developing a custom FI map for all my own considerations, and you hit on many of them. (Range, Not Run Hot, Hard to Stall, Easy Start In Gear (as opposed to Neutral).

 

I know off topic, but : Did you use / consider other maps before choosing this one ("Woods")? What "worked out" for you?  What did not?

 

So, Thanks!

I've done the unaltered Comp ECU map which is all 000 and it seemed to run OK but was hard to start in gear and a bit "lurchy".  I then tried the "mud" map and didn't care for it. This is best described as weird. Feels like a delay from hand to rear wheel and motor takes too long to spool. I'm now running the "woods" map and like it so far. I think it is optimal for the terrain I'm riding and my skill level and speed (or lack thereof). I am going to try the sand mapping when I go down to the open desert. I think the GYTR Power Tuner guide is spot on and I won't deviate much (if at all) until I change the muffler or cams or head, etc. Seriously, this engine makes plenty of power with the minor mods done so far. I believe first things ought to be suspension and protection. Suspension is quite good in stock form and I'm thinking I'll only need heavier springs.



  • mebgardner

Posted January 23, 2014 - 12:22 PM

#11

Is this the "Woods" map you're referring to?

 

+++++++++++++++++++

 

YZ450F:

 

http://www.thumperta...g-map-database/

 

Post #7 by GrayRacer

 

 

Fuel Injection (FI)
+4 +4 -3
+4 +4 -4
-3 -4 -4

Ignition (IG)
-3 -3 -3
-3 -3 -0
-3 -3 -3
 

+++++++++++++++++++

 

...or this one:

 

+++++++++++++++++++

 

WR450F:

 

http://www.thumperta...database/page-2

 

#22 by WouldsAssain.

 

 

WR Woods
[color=#000000]This map delivers very smooth power, allowing accurate control of your acceleration at very low speeds.[/color]

woods.jpg 
 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

 

Which?



  • ggamster

Posted January 23, 2014 - 12:51 PM

#12

I would like to add...don't over complicate anything. I think a lot of bikes get messed up by people screwing with them. I have seen over 800 hours on WR engines without requiring valve adjustment ever. My point is is well I think you will need to service your bike don't go overboard. Change your oil every 15hrs, air filter every 5hrs, valve check when the bike starts to have harder than normal starting issues, spokes after first 10 and every 30 after, greese it up twice a year, bolt tightness every quarter and that should do it.

  • mebgardner

Posted January 24, 2014 - 07:06 AM

#13

I would like to add...don't over complicate anything. I think a lot of bikes get messed up by people screwing with them. I have seen over 800 hours on WR engines without requiring valve adjustment ever. My point is is well I think you will need to service your bike don't go overboard. Change your oil every 15hrs, air filter every 5hrs, valve check when the bike starts to have harder than normal starting issues, spokes after first 10 and every 30 after, greese it up twice a year, bolt tightness every quarter and that should do it.

 

I am a big proponent of the KISS principle. This is main reason I try to buy my cycle in the configuration I wish to maintain it, instead of bolting-up more power.

 

Thanks for the clarification, it helped me.



  • cubera

Posted January 26, 2014 - 08:37 AM

#14

Is this the "Woods" map you're referring to?

 

+++++++++++++++++++

 

YZ450F:

 

http://www.thumperta...g-map-database/

 

Post #7 by GrayRacer

 

 

Fuel Injection (FI)
+4 +4 -3
+4 +4 -4
-3 -4 -4

Ignition (IG)
-3 -3 -3
-3 -3 -0
-3 -3 -3
 

+++++++++++++++++++

 

...or this one:

 

+++++++++++++++++++

 

WR450F:

 

http://www.thumperta...database/page-2

 

#22 by WouldsAssain.

 

 

WR Woods
[color=#000000]This map delivers very smooth power, allowing accurate control of your acceleration at very low speeds.[/color]

woods.jpg 
 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

 

Which?

 

I'm using the last one you posted which is right out of the guide for the GYTR Power Tuner for woods/tight trail with stock exhaust/head. The motor is extremely compliant with this tuning being it'll lug and chug a gear or two too high yet still pull like a freight train to the limiter when necessary. I'm anxious to get in some terrain where I can use more of the motor. So far, so good! I'm really liking this bike!






 
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