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WR Maps Only

Fuel & Air EFI Programmers

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136 replies to this topic
  • WRF-Rowdy

    TT Bronze Member

221 posts
Location: Other
Garage View Garage

Posted September 14, 2015 - 11:54 PM


Here is specifically what I was told to do:

 

1. Run engine until operating temperature is reached. Shut engine off.

2. Disconnect the positive lead on the battery, then while still disconnected, press starter to discharge remaining electricity from the capacitor, wait for approximately 15 minutes, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the ECU back to the loaded 'center baseline' of the current map loaded into the ECU (not current ambient conditions)

3. Another option: Turn the ignition key on, press the starter for 1 sec, then wait, and start the motor. Run till hot.
 Then Shut the motor off. Restart with no throttle for at least 30 seconds.  Shut off and restart and ride. This will reset the 'center basline' for current ambient conditions.

 

What should (2) achieve? When to use (2) and when to use (3) and above all: why?

The ambient air temp and air pressure sensors deliver absolute values, hence the ECU always knows how dense the air is.
 



  • Krannie McKranface
36,168 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted September 15, 2015 - 06:08 AM


What should (2) achieve? When to use (2) and when to use (3) and above all: why?

The ambient air temp and air pressure sensors deliver absolute values, hence the ECU always knows how dense the air is.
 

 

According to my conversation with Keihin, the sensors are on 100% of the time, but the ECU cannot process realtime data once the throttle has been opened.

The thottle must be closed for 30+ seconds for the data to be processed.

Otherwise, the processor would have include O2 post combustion chamber to be able to make adjustments in real time.



  • WRF-Rowdy

    TT Bronze Member

221 posts
Location: Other
Garage View Garage

Posted September 15, 2015 - 07:14 AM


According to my conversation with Keihin, the sensors are on 100% of the time, but the ECU cannot process realtime data once the throttle has been opened.

The thottle must be closed for 30+ seconds for the data to be processed.

 

I find that very hard to believe, that the data prcessing capability would be throttle pos dependend as described.

I could imagine that it is rpm dependend, meaning at 2000 rpms and below there is enough time to sample and process,

whereas at 10.000rpms the time between injections might be too short.

 

Personally that is still hard to believe, as I know from personal ECU programming that for instance an ST7 microcontroller

requires a "request to sample" an input voltage and it will alert the program by interrupt when the measurement is complete,

enabling the CPU to do other stuff till the ADC has finished converting the sensores voltage to a number.

 

And it is especially hard to believe, because that would mean, that one would be required to stop and recalibrate the ECU

after the engines warmed up, because if the ECU truly won't be able to sample temps and pressures in real time

it won't notice when the engine has reached operating temps and continue onwards with rich, cold start mixture.

 

So as CDI's since the dumb WR400F's always did sample TPS in real time,

and the 10 years younger, prgrammable EFI ECU do sample TPS, intake pressure (a very dynamic input value) and

 - if configured - do european closed loop O2 regulation in real time,

I refuse to accept that somehow they can't sample the very slowly changing air/water temps, that just makes no sense.

 

That either is an urban legend, like the one stating that one must not be on CO adjustment mode

with the engine running (which I debunked here personally)

or it is only correct for some different / simpler ECU, that Keihin guy was referring to.

 

 

 

Otherwise, the processor would have include O2 post combustion chamber to be able to make adjustments in real time.

No idea what that should mean.


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, September 15, 2015 - 07:23 AM.


  • vlxjim

    TT Bronze Member

343 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted November 02, 2015 - 04:39 PM


I have been working with my vlxjim map for some time now. This works great with the normal mods with the stock pipe unplugged or the FMF pipe. Other pipes should work as will. As with all maps use at your own risk.

 

Here is the original vlxjim map. (Smoother)

 

 

vlxjim Map

 

 Fuel         Timing

3  4  4      0   0   0

3  5  3     -2  -1  0

3  4  3     -2  -2  0

 

I now have my tested vlxjim EX map. Works as before with just (more bottom power at the hit).

 

vlxjim EX Map

 

 Fuel         Timing

3  4  4      0   0   0

3  5  3      1   0   0

3  4  3      1   1  0



  • fuchsrr

    TT Newbie

8 posts
Location: Florida

Posted November 15, 2015 - 12:30 PM


Florida Hare Scrambles SSrC Rider. Conditions are very sandy,slick rooty or muddy. I tried the sand mapping was way to MX out of turns. I now have mine set with CO at 10 may drop 1 more.  FI Settings:                                1  2  1         1  2   2    

                                                               2  2  2         2  2  2

                                                               2  2  2         2  1  0 

 

Nice power without being so peaky at 1/2 throttle.  Will continue to work on it.


Edited by fuchsrr, November 15, 2015 - 12:31 PM.


  • Andrew Puetz

    TT Bronze Member

234 posts
Location: Minnesota

Posted November 15, 2015 - 06:33 PM


Finally tried the vlxjim map today.  I am sold on it!


Edited by Andrew Puetz, November 15, 2015 - 06:34 PM.


  • fuchsrr

    TT Newbie

8 posts
Location: Florida

Posted November 24, 2015 - 12:22 PM


Here is my question: The pictures show the first mapping impacting 4000 RPM is the where it starts or ends? I am just trying to determine if this setting would impact starting. If it affects 0-6500 then either retarding but specifically advancing the timing should make the start harder.   I was just reading this: 

 

At idle, your engine is turning relatively slowly, let’s say 1000 rpms. The throttle is closed, so very little fuel and air are being drawn in to the cylinders. This small amount of combustible mixture burns very quickly, so for maximum efficiency, the spark needs to start when the piston is very near top dead center. If the spark comes too early (too advanced), the pressure from the ignited mixture will hit the piston while it is still coming up the cylinder and be wasted trying to shove the piston down before it reaches the end of it’s travel. If you try to start an engine whose ignition timing is too advanced, the starter will try to turn the crank one way, and the combustion process will try to turn it the other way, and it will seem as if the starter hasn’t enough oomph to start it. Contrariwise, if the timing is set too late (too retarded), the pressure from the ignited mixture (and the power derived therefrom) will dissipate as the flame front chases the piston down the cylinder bore in the rapidly diminishing pressure of the combustion chamber. In other words, the piston is already on it’s way towards the bottom of it’s stroke, reducing the effectiveness of combustion. The is very fuel inefficient, since a larger throttle opening at idle (set by the idle speed screw) is needed allow extra fuel in to keep the engine idling. In practical terms, the position of the distributor which yields the highest idle speed is within a very few degrees of where it should be set. (If you retard the timing about 5 degrees from this point, you will be awfully close to spot-on.) Of course, this assumes your carburetor (or F.I.)is working well and that the idle mixture is correct."

 

From: http://www.type2.com...ctrip/timex.htm

 

2012 WR450 Unpluged


Edited by fuchsrr, November 24, 2015 - 12:23 PM.


  • tomerb

    TT Bronze Member

381 posts
Location: Arizona

Posted November 29, 2015 - 04:38 PM


fuchsrr, on 24 Nov 2015 - 1:22 PM, said:

Here is my question: The pictures show the first mapping impacting 4000 RPM is the where it starts or ends? I am just trying to determine if this setting would impact starting. If it affects 0-6500 then either retarding but specifically advancing the timing should make the start harder.   I was just reading this: 

 

At idle, your engine is turning relatively slowly, let’s say 1000 rpms. The throttle is closed, so very little fuel and air are being drawn in to the cylinders. This small amount of combustible mixture burns very quickly, so for maximum efficiency, the spark needs to start when the piston is very near top dead center. If the spark comes too early (too advanced), the pressure from the ignited mixture will hit the piston while it is still coming up the cylinder and be wasted trying to shove the piston down before it reaches the end of it’s travel. If you try to start an engine whose ignition timing is too advanced, the starter will try to turn the crank one way, and the combustion process will try to turn it the other way, and it will seem as if the starter hasn’t enough oomph to start it. Contrariwise, if the timing is set too late (too retarded), the pressure from the ignited mixture (and the power derived therefrom) will dissipate as the flame front chases the piston down the cylinder bore in the rapidly diminishing pressure of the combustion chamber. In other words, the piston is already on it’s way towards the bottom of it’s stroke, reducing the effectiveness of combustion. The is very fuel inefficient, since a larger throttle opening at idle (set by the idle speed screw) is needed allow extra fuel in to keep the engine idling. In practical terms, the position of the distributor which yields the highest idle speed is within a very few degrees of where it should be set. (If you retard the timing about 5 degrees from this point, you will be awfully close to spot-on.) Of course, this assumes your carburetor (or F.I.)is working well and that the idle mixture is correct."

 

From: http://www.type2.com...ctrip/timex.htm

 

2012 WR450 Unpluged

Most people know what you wrote............

But no one knows how to check the timing with a degree wheel and a timing light on a 2012 WR 450 with the motor running.

And no one knows what the cranking timing is when trying to start the bike, probably retarded too much and lean making it hard to start.

And no one knows what the timing is at idle, and it is probably way retarded and burning into the exhaust turning the head pipe red.



  • Clancy13

    TT Newbie

2 posts
Location: Australia

Posted December 03, 2015 - 07:15 PM


I find the "Aussie Map" to be best all rounder with good blend of linear power, torque and traction. Runnin a DRD slip on

  • Kx250FRiDeR651

    Get Help Now

6,071 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted December 04, 2015 - 07:06 PM


Does it matter what year the bike is for the maps? Like I see a lot of maps people have made and claim are good maps posted but are usually older 2012's etc? Are they the same for all EFI wr450s with a competition Ecu kit?

Looking for a map for my 15' with just a FMF gytr slip on, and snorkel removed, throttle screw. Ride mostly supermoto/street (guess that's considered hard pack) Close to sea level.

I'm guessing just pick one made for my mods and type of throttle/power delivery I feel like?

Edited by Kx250FRiDeR651, December 04, 2015 - 09:05 PM.


  • Kx250FRiDeR651

    Get Help Now

6,071 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted December 11, 2015 - 06:40 AM


I uploaded the FMF map. Guessing that works for both slip on and full exhaust? The descriptions are sure vague for the maps. Runs fine

I have a fmf gytr muffler/megabomb header

Edited by Kx250FRiDeR651, December 11, 2015 - 06:46 AM.


  • Kx250FRiDeR651

    Get Help Now

6,071 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted December 11, 2015 - 06:43 AM


Delete - double post. Phones going crazy

Edited by Kx250FRiDeR651, December 11, 2015 - 06:44 AM.


  • Yetisurf

    TT Newbie

3 posts
Location: Hawaii

Posted January 04, 2016 - 09:42 PM


Does anybody know how to get rid of the center click in the steering of my WR400f? It's Frikking sucky. It was designed to keep the front end from flopping if you were to jump the bike and slip off the rear end and do tricks! Uh, not going to happen with me, duh, 59 yrs old.

  • mch

    TT Silver Member

584 posts
Location: Nevada
Garage View Garage

Posted January 05, 2016 - 07:25 AM


Does it matter what year the bike is for the maps? Like I see a lot of maps people have made and claim are good maps posted but are usually older 2012's etc? Are they the same for all EFI wr450s with a competition Ecu kit?

Looking for a map for my 15' with just a FMF gytr slip on, and snorkel removed, throttle screw. Ride mostly supermoto/street (guess that's considered hard pack) Close to sea level.

I'm guessing just pick one made for my mods and type of throttle/power delivery I feel like?


All the FI WRs are the same. Maps are not an exact science.

  • NM_Rider

    TT Newbie

5 posts
Location: New Mexico

Posted January 05, 2016 - 10:30 AM


Does anyone have a recommendation on a map for med power on bottom and harder hit on med and top (GYTR slip-on). I will be doing desert and woods racing and think this would help keep me from overpowering in turns and tight stuff. It will be my first year in hare scrambles so I'm sure to learn a bunch.

  • NM_Rider

    TT Newbie

5 posts
Location: New Mexico

Posted January 05, 2016 - 11:47 AM


Also, I'm interested in a stock we or yz exhaust if someone has one just sitting on the shelf. Somehow my bent when I dropped it on the mountain.

  • AtomicGeo

    TT Silver Member

960 posts
Location: New Mexico
Garage View Garage

Posted January 10, 2016 - 02:54 PM


Also, I'm interested in a stock we or yz exhaust if someone has one just sitting on the shelf. Somehow my bent when I dropped it on the mountain.

 

I have a new stock one (zero miles put on it) from my '14 to sell if you want.  I am in Los Alamos.

 

Edit:  I remember he original owner of my '14 telling me it was never used, and the the GYTR on it it now went on immediately...it had zero miles on it, so it's new.


Edited by AtomicGeo, January 10, 2016 - 03:01 PM.


  • NM_Rider

    TT Newbie

5 posts
Location: New Mexico

Posted January 10, 2016 - 07:58 PM


Also, I'm interested in a stock we or yz header if someone has one just sitting on the shelf. Somehow my bent when I dropped it on the mountain.



  • jhinderliter

    TT Bronze Member

233 posts
Location: Illinois

Posted January 30, 2016 - 09:59 PM


any dyno run data on these maps?

 

Thanks



  • Ghazzah

    TT Bronze Member

407 posts
Location: New Zealand

Posted February 19, 2016 - 10:22 AM


Morning, Team.

Apologies if these have been posted elsewhere, but here's a copy of the maps provided by Yamaha Australia for the launch of the 2016 WR450 and reported by Transmoto.

I've ordered mine and it's a couple of weeks away. Fitting an FMF 4.1 Ti full system (inc MegaBomb) as soon as the box hits the floor, so will be testing these maps out and reporting back. I also have a Powercommander and Autotuner with Lambda sensor, but won't be installing these until I have run the bike up and down the Power Tuner maps and get a feel for the motor rich/lean, advanced/retarded.

Has anyone here tried these '16 maps, and if so, what mods to the bike?

Cheers, Gaz.

Attached Thumbnails

  • image.jpeg

Edited by Ghazzah, February 19, 2016 - 10:23 AM.






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