Jump to content

  • Follow us:

  • Facebook
  • YouTube
  • Twitter
  • Google+
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Google+





Related Garage

2_2685f90990b78025353c9f901ee29e95.jpg

Dynojet Research Power Commander III USB


Owner: L28ETS30Z
Added on May 10, 2016


Related Reviews

Electronic Jet Kit Fuel Injection Controller


Last review by Charlie250
* * * * -

JD Jetting Power Surge 6X EFI Tuner


Last review by halo.spaceboy
* - - - -

Sisneros Speed Works remap


Last review by mchonda2
* * * * *

Dynojet Research Wide Band 2 Air/Fuel Ratio Monitor with Color LCD


Last review by some_ ogre
* * * * *

HMF Engineering Dobeck EFI Tuning Box


Last review by Off-roader123
* * * * *
Photo
* * * - - 2 votes

WR Maps Only

Fuel & Air EFI Programmers

  • Please sign in to reply

136 replies to this topic
  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted July 12, 2015 - 07:47 PM


As Chu and Rowdy have mentioned, our CO idle is probably too rich. So I decided to see about leaning it out.

 

After a long ride yesturday I hooked up my FI diagnostic tool and found the CO setting that had the highest idle. I found that a CO of -12 (was at +7) gave the highest idle. I then reduced my idle down to 2000 rpm. Changing the CO raised it from 2000 to 2200.

 

The bike seemed to start flawlessly after that, but I only tried a half dozen times in the parking area I was in.

 

I'm hoping that changing the CO hasn't introduced any negative fueling characteristics, but I won't find out till my next ride either this or next weekend.

 

For reference this is the map I'm currently running.

 

 1 1 1      0  1 3

 0 1 1     -1  0 1

-1 0 1     -3 -1 0

You killed him with the button? After the button, he is not bad start,abruptly let go clutch, then start bad



  • Spiritwalker2222

    TT Bronze Member

291 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted July 13, 2015 - 05:51 AM


As Chu and Rowdy have mentioned, our CO idle is probably too rich. So I decided to see about leaning it out.

 

After a long ride yesturday I hooked up my FI diagnostic tool and found the CO setting that had the highest idle. I found that a CO of -12 (was at +7) gave the highest idle. I then reduced my idle down to 2000 rpm. Changing the CO raised it from 2000 to 2200.

 

The bike seemed to start flawlessly after that, but I only tried a half dozen times in the parking area I was in.

 

I'm hoping that changing the CO hasn't introduced any negative fueling characteristics, but I won't find out till my next ride either this or next weekend.

 

For reference this is the map I'm currently running.

 

 1 1 1      0  1 3

 0 1 1     -1  0 1

-1 0 1     -3 -1 0

 

Went for a ride yesturday. Still have the hot start issue. It was marginally better. It was a really hot and humid day, don't know if that would have made a difference.



  • bradra2

    TT Newbie

2 posts
Location: Michigan

Posted July 14, 2015 - 05:39 PM


FMF Map:

 

+2 +3 +3       +2 +2 +1

+2 +4 +4       +3 +2 +2

+2 +4 +4       +3 +3 +3

 

Fuel light at about 40 miles under conditions similar to race conditions. Fast double track and sand washes 30mph moving average max speed 77mph.

Impressive performance off idle to limiter. Hard to stall. Runs cool. Starts easily in gear.

what mods do you have done? Not many people are posting what they have done to their bike so the map postings seem kind of irrelevant to me. I have FMF PC4 slip on, and am waiting on my powerbomb header. I'm thinking that I will try this map when it comes in. 



  • cubera

    Get Help Now

10,780 posts
Location: Arizona
Garage View Garage

Posted July 14, 2015 - 05:47 PM


what mods do you have done? Not many people are posting what they have done to their bike so the map postings seem kind of irrelevant to me. I have FMF PC4 slip on, and am waiting on my powerbomb header. I'm thinking that I will try this map when it comes in. 

I run FMF Megabomb and PC muffler w/ sparky. At the time of that post I was running OEM head pipe. Those are the only mods except mapping and aftermarket air filter.



  • bradra2

    TT Newbie

2 posts
Location: Michigan

Posted July 14, 2015 - 05:57 PM


Am going to baja where there will be some high speed mixed with super technical on my 12 WR. Am running a map that looks like this:

1 2 2 1 1 0
1 2 3 2 1 1
1 3 3 2 2 2

Have the ecu, powerbomb, and FMF muffler. Never opened up the box as I ride in dusty conditions often. Am an experienced rider but not an experienced FI tuner. Bike has 797 hrs on it and last valve check included leak down compression test. Tech says bike tested like the motor was fresh. The above map has been in the bike for prob the last 500 hrs. I'm concerned about fuel consumption in baja as there will be some long intervals. Pemex will rule the trip so I don't want to lean out the motor much more than it already is without someone more experienced telling me it will probably be ok. What do you guys think?

what altitude/temperature/humidity do you normally ride in? Gas mileage with that map? I will have the same mods in the next few days and am trying to figure out a good map. Thanks!



  • Spiritwalker2222

    TT Bronze Member

291 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted July 21, 2015 - 08:32 AM


You killed him with the button? After the button, he is not bad start,abruptly let go clutch, then start bad

 

Not sure what your saying here?



  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted July 21, 2015 - 04:22 PM


Not sure what your saying here?

 
 
When a stop in the woods !! Not on stand


  • Spiritwalker2222

    TT Bronze Member

291 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted July 21, 2015 - 05:17 PM


My bike is still hard to start when the engine is stopped from idle(and hot). Doesn't matter if I stall the bike or use the kill button. But if I'm going to use the kill button, I'll rev the engine then it starts fine.



  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted July 24, 2015 - 05:40 PM


Went for a ride yesturday. Still have the hot start issue. It was marginally better. It was a really hot and humid day, don't know if that would have made a difference.

this does not work



  • Spiritwalker2222

    TT Bronze Member

291 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted August 31, 2015 - 09:19 AM


My current map is

 

1   1   1      0  1   3

0   1   1    -1   0   1

-1  0   1    -3  -1   0

 

My hot start is better than before, but still present somewhat. To avoid hot start issues, I rev the engine a bit before killing the motor. Motor will start right up afterwards. If I stall the bike, I'll hold the bike WOT and crank a few times like Bradgross said above. Then the bike fires up no problem.

 

I'm going to play with CO setting to see if that helps it, I'll probably lower it back to around 0 and see how it is. I haven't had much time to fiddle with the bike.

I've been slowly fidling with my map, trying to improve fuel range and hot starts. I currently run the below map with my CO at -3, IIRC the TPS is at 11. Bike is stock, with the intake and exhaust restrictons removed. Altitute of 500 - 1500 feet, humidity from 0 to 100%.

 

 0  0 1      0  1 3

-1  0 0     -1  0 1

-3 -1 0     -3 -1 0

 

Hot starting is better, but still an issue. I've noticed that it'll now start every time in neutral. But it's still hit and miss when in gear (when bike was stopped while idling). Bike fires up fine with a kick or if I blip the throttle and then hit the kill switch(before restarting). Or I can hold throttle WOT for a few cranks and then it'll start normally.



  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted September 01, 2015 - 05:31 AM


the same



  • bradgross71

    TT Bronze Member

274 posts

Posted September 01, 2015 - 02:06 PM


I reduced my co level from 10 to 5 and it's almost perfect. 3 is probably going to be perfect for hot starts

  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted September 08, 2015 - 07:19 PM


FMF Map:

 

+2 +3 +3       +2 +2 +1

+2 +4 +4       +3 +2 +2

+2 +4 +4       +3 +3 +3

 

Fuel light at about 40 miles under conditions similar to race conditions. Fast double track and sand washes 30mph moving average max speed 77mph.

Impressive performance off idle to limiter. Hard to stall. Runs cool. Starts easily in gear.

What level co?



  • cubera

    Get Help Now

10,780 posts
Location: Arizona
Garage View Garage

Posted September 09, 2015 - 06:27 PM


What level co?

No idea. Sorry



  • Krannie McKranface
36,651 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted September 10, 2015 - 02:23 PM


Are you guys re-setting the base line after a re-map?

 

Starting a warm engine with no  throttle and letting it idle for 1 min, then shut off.

 

The 'centralizes' the map so it can still adjust +/- for changes in air density and temp.



  • Spiritwalker2222

    TT Bronze Member

291 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted September 10, 2015 - 06:53 PM


Are you guys re-setting the base line after a re-map?

 

Starting a warm engine with no  throttle and letting it idle for 1 min, then shut off.

 

The 'centralizes' the map so it can still adjust +/- for changes in air density and temp.

First I heard of this. Where did you hear about it? Is it required for both a new map and changing the CO?



  • Krannie McKranface
36,651 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted September 10, 2015 - 06:57 PM


First I heard of this. Where did you hear about it? Is it required for both a new map and changing the CO?

 

When I had trouble with my KTM/Keihin FI, I called Keihin for help, and they said you are supposed to do this every time you think there is a change in air density.

 

On the KTM it solved in inconsistent throttle linearity I was experiencing when the motor got hotter.



  • Krannie McKranface
36,651 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted September 10, 2015 - 07:05 PM


Here is specifically what I was told to do:

 

1. Run engine until operating temperature is reached. Shut engine off.

2. Disconnect the positive lead on the battery, then while still disconnected, press starter to discharge remaining electricity from the capacitor, wait for approximately 15 minutes, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the ECU back to the loaded 'center baseline' of the current map loaded into the ECU (not current ambient conditions)

3. Another option: Turn the ignition key on, press the starter for 1 sec, then wait, and start the motor. Run till hot.
 Then Shut the motor off. Restart with no throttle for at least 30 seconds.  Shut off and restart and ride. This will reset the 'center basline' for current ambient conditions.

 



  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted September 11, 2015 - 03:35 AM


Here is specifically what I was told to do:

 

1. Run engine until operating temperature is reached. Shut engine off.

2. Disconnect the positive lead on the battery, then while still disconnected, press starter to discharge remaining electricity from the capacitor, wait for approximately 15 minutes, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the ECU back to the loaded 'center baseline' of the current map loaded into the ECU (not current ambient conditions)

3. Another option: Turn the ignition key on, press the starter for 1 sec, then wait, and start the motor. Run till hot.
 Then Shut the motor off. Restart with no throttle for at least 30 seconds.  Shut off and restart and ride. This will reset the 'center basline' for current ambient conditions.

tomorrow I will try



  • WRF-Rowdy

    TT Bronze Member

221 posts
Location: Other
Garage View Garage

Posted September 14, 2015 - 11:23 PM


I've been slowly fidling with my map, trying to improve fuel range and hot starts. I currently run the below map with my CO at -3, IIRC the TPS is at 11. Bike is stock, with the intake and exhaust restrictons removed. Altitute of 500 - 1500 feet, humidity from 0 to 100%.

 

 0  0 1      0  1 3

-1  0 0     -1  0 1

-3 -1 0     -3 -1 0

 

Hot starting is better, but still an issue. I've noticed that it'll now start every time in neutral. But it's still hit and miss when in gear (when bike was stopped while idling). Bike fires up fine with a kick or if I blip the throttle and then hit the kill switch(before restarting). Or I can hold throttle WOT for a few cranks and then it'll start normally.

 

Hot start is totally and utterly unaffected by mapping. As soon as you close the throttle(!) fully CO setting takes over.  One can set the 1/8 throttle fuel values to +7 or -7, closing the throttle will cut off fule injection at all above some 3000 rpms (super lean at the O2 sensor)  and below that threshold it will set fuel according to CO setting and CO setting only.  BTDT: 
-  When setting CO to -26 I finally get stochiomnetric idle (hunting between lean and rich). Irrelevant of what mapping I'm testing closing the throttle gives me that lean / rich alternating combution.

- When I have CO at -16 (slightly rich idle)  and set the fuel map to -6 in the 1/8th throttle section I get lean coasting, until I close the throttle where the CO setting takes over making combustion rich.

=> mixture at closed throttle is controlled only by CO setting, for the 1/8 throttle mapping values to have any effect throttle must be open at least a tiny amount.

 

I admire the desperate attempts on this forum to fix hot start issues by changing the mapping but this is futile. Perceived effects are exactly that: not true.

 

I reduced my co level from 10 to 5 and it's almost perfect. 3 is probably going to be perfect for hot starts

Stil waaayy to rich for good hot start,

see http://www.thumperta.../#entry12497148

 

Set CO to something like -16 to -20 (that's right, minus 20 ) and you can fire up the bike hot or cold, no matter how you killed/stalled it with one tiny stab at the button.

 

Personally I blame YAMAHA for two things: not including the CO adjuster with the bike (hillarious concept selling a bike w/o idle adjustment option), and eben worse: have a CO value of "0" make the bike still run really rich.  That way they helped create the notion of "e-start WRs being hard to start when hot" which is total BS.

 

I've posted the woe I had with the new to my WR450F'12 in Italy in the woods. Having to hit the button three times to fire it up hot, never get it to fire up in gear, 450EXC buddy raising a cynical eyebrow about Yamahas EFI &%$#@!up, read here: http://www.thumperta...2#entry12474701
The "hint" of the pre owner that she'll start up right away when hot if only one gently lifts the hotstart knob a little (what an utterly crazy procedure for a race bike) made me check out CO setting and by that dreaed tool to adjust it.

 

Nowadays I ALWAS start the bike in gear, cold, warm or hot with one push of the button. CO is set to -16 or -20 (I forgot, problem is gone)
 


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, September 15, 2015 - 12:06 AM.






Related Content

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.