I've been slowly fidling with my map, trying to improve fuel range and hot starts. I currently run the below map with my CO at -3, IIRC the TPS is at 11. Bike is stock, with the intake and exhaust restrictons removed. Altitute of 500 - 1500 feet, humidity from 0 to 100%.
0 0 1 0 1 3
-1 0 0 -1 0 1
-3 -1 0 -3 -1 0
Hot starting is better, but still an issue. I've noticed that it'll now start every time in neutral. But it's still hit and miss when in gear (when bike was stopped while idling). Bike fires up fine with a kick or if I blip the throttle and then hit the kill switch(before restarting). Or I can hold throttle WOT for a few cranks and then it'll start normally.
Hot start is totally and utterly unaffected by mapping. As soon as you close the throttle(!) fully CO setting takes over. One can set the 1/8 throttle fuel values to +7 or -7, closing the throttle will cut off fule injection at all above some 3000 rpms (super lean at the O2 sensor) and below that threshold it will set fuel according to CO setting and CO setting only. BTDT:
- When setting CO to -26 I finally get stochiomnetric idle (hunting between lean and rich). Irrelevant of what mapping I'm testing closing the throttle gives me that lean / rich alternating combution.
- When I have CO at -16 (slightly rich idle) and set the fuel map to -6 in the 1/8th throttle section I get lean coasting, until I close the throttle where the CO setting takes over making combustion rich.
=> mixture at closed throttle is controlled only by CO setting, for the 1/8 throttle mapping values to have any effect throttle must be open at least a tiny amount.
I admire the desperate attempts on this forum to fix hot start issues by changing the mapping but this is futile. Perceived effects are exactly that: not true.
I reduced my co level from 10 to 5 and it's almost perfect. 3 is probably going to be perfect for hot starts
Stil waaayy to rich for good hot start,
Set CO to something like -16 to -20 (that's right, minus 20 ) and you can fire up the bike hot or cold, no matter how you killed/stalled it with one tiny stab at the button.
Personally I blame YAMAHA for two things: not including the CO adjuster with the bike (hillarious concept selling a bike w/o idle adjustment option), and eben worse: have a CO value of "0" make the bike still run really rich. That way they helped create the notion of "e-start WRs being hard to start when hot" which is total BS.
I've posted the woe I had with the new to my WR450F'12 in Italy in the woods. Having to hit the button three times to fire it up hot, never get it to fire up in gear, 450EXC buddy raising a cynical eyebrow about Yamahas EFI &%$#@!up, read here: http://www.thumperta...2#entry12474701
The "hint" of the pre owner that she'll start up right away when hot if only one gently lifts the hotstart knob a little (what an utterly crazy procedure for a race bike) made me check out CO setting and by that dreaed tool to adjust it.
Nowadays I ALWAS start the bike in gear, cold, warm or hot with one push of the button. CO is set to -16 or -20 (I forgot, problem is gone)
Edited by WRF-Rowdy, September 15, 2015 - 12:06 AM.