Jump to content

  • Follow us:

  • Facebook
  • YouTube
  • Twitter
  • Google+
  • Instagram
  • RSS Feed
  • Google+





Related Garage

2_2685f90990b78025353c9f901ee29e95.jpg

Dynojet Research Power Commander III USB


Owner: L28ETS30Z
Added on May 10, 2016


Related Reviews

HMF Engineering Dobeck EFI Tuning Box


Last review by Off-roader123
* * * * *

Dynojet Research Power Commander III USB


Last review by L28ETS30Z
* * * * -

Sicass Racing Wild Ignition map


Last review by smv ryder
* * * * *

EJK Electronic Fuel Control Module


Last review by Mbagnal
* * * * -

JD Jetting Power Surge 6X EFI Tuner


Last review by halo.spaceboy
* - - - -
Photo
* * * - - 2 votes

WR Maps Only

Fuel & Air EFI Programmers

  • Please sign in to reply

136 replies to this topic
  • mch

    TT Silver Member

591 posts
Location: Nevada
Garage View Garage

Posted April 25, 2015 - 03:57 PM


Great pic, thx!  The PartNo#  90890-03215 given on p. 8-31 in my 2012 WR's manual apparently is no longer in production.

I just ordered a package looking similar to what you got, for appr. 100€  partnumber 90890-03182

http://www.cmsnl.com...2/#.VTkyfZM1RJ4

 

The thing that scares me is that both my manual and other internet location mention

part# 90890-03212, a "FI diagnostic Tool Sub-lead"  to be necessary to actually use the diag. tool at all.

 

That adapter cable sells for ~180 bucks :banghead:

 

Hence: 

please outline as precisely as possible how you did get your tool to work,

especially what connections (besides battery) did you setup?

 

I certainly don't want to fry my CDI or The Tool.

 

 

P.

 

I just used a standard wire connector and snipped 1 side off.  I then stuck the remaining edge into the programming plug.  Maybe not that pretty, but it worked.  It's just the 1 wire into the plug.

 

mUhYOqwI56zd43Z22jozHZQ.jpg



  • WRF-Rowdy

    TT Bronze Member

221 posts
Location: Other
Garage View Garage

Posted April 26, 2015 - 05:05 AM


Understood so far, but which one ist the programming plug on my attached pic? 

I offer  grey, blue, green, red, yellow, one of the connectors in the pink area.

(the one circeled RED is shown with it's plug removed, no idea what that is)

 

Especially which pin of the connector is the programming pin?

 

20150426_143126.jpg

 

Maybe you can upload a pic of the details of your FI tool connection ?


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, April 26, 2015 - 10:27 AM.


  • mch

    TT Silver Member

591 posts
Location: Nevada
Garage View Garage

Posted April 26, 2015 - 05:56 AM


Yellow, top left.

  • AtomicGeo

    TT Silver Member

960 posts
Location: New Mexico
Garage View Garage

Posted April 26, 2015 - 06:52 AM


Understood sof ar, but which one ist the programming plug on my attached pic? 

I offer  grey, blue, green, red, yellow, one of the connectors in the pink area.

(the one circeled RED is shown with it's plug removed, no idea what that is)

 

Especially which pin of the connector is the programming pin?

 

attachicon.gif20150426_143126.jpg

 

Maybe you can upload a pic of the details of your FI tool connection ?

 

 

Yellow, top left.

 

 

yep, the yellow circled one on the top left.  If you use the FI tool with the clips going to the battery, then you only have to make a connection to the center pin.  If you use the FI tool connector like I showed earlier w/o a connection to the battery, then you use all three wires on the plug.

 

Also, remember to push the FI tool middle button when you power on your bike in order to get it into programming diagnostic mode instead of RPM/temperature monitor mode.  



  • WRF-Rowdy

    TT Bronze Member

221 posts
Location: Other
Garage View Garage

Posted April 26, 2015 - 07:04 AM


edit: sorry, you beat me typing wise, that's my drivel, nevertheless:

 

While i was eagerly awaiting your photo documentation (thx a lot) I dove into the electric schematic diagram.

I think i found the connector it has three wires, red, black and (light)green(?).

black is solid ground, Red actually is Br(own) in other places e.g.

it's the "switched Battery plus 12V". Meaning it'll carry 12V only when ignition switch is on.

Green goes directly into the EFI-CDI box!

Red has a diode in flow direction thereby protecting the rest of the bike's electrics from a dork that might feed that plug 28V from his Cessna's battery.

 

So the connector should provide all connections the FI diagnostic tool will need:

Ground, 12V (if ign. is ON) and the signal to talk to the CDI.

 

Do i need that separate battery connecting leads that so many folks on YouTube use the power the tool?

I don't think so and assume your pic is complete in sofar as the is no additional cabeling necessary to run the tool on the WR.

 

 

Question:

Can I get the FI tool into CO-adjustment mode (hold tool button pressed while switching on bike's ignition)

start the engine it, and do real time CO adjustment while measuring CO with an exhaus gas analyzer?

 

I'd like to tweak CO with the FI tool while the bike is idling!

 

Or do I have to "adjust CO" with the tool, ign-off, ign-on, start-bike, check CO, ign-off,

tool-diagmode+ign-on, ajust CO, ign-off, ign.on start-bike......    tedious, to say the least.


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, April 26, 2015 - 09:29 AM.


  • mch

    TT Silver Member

591 posts
Location: Nevada
Garage View Garage

Posted April 26, 2015 - 11:33 AM


AtomicGeo pretty much summed it up. I used the clips to the battery and then used the 1 wire to the center plug. I don't think you can change the setting while it's running.

IMG_20150426_121959.jpg

Edited by mch, April 26, 2015 - 04:03 PM.


  • buhlockay

    TT Member

50 posts
Location: California

Posted May 21, 2015 - 08:59 PM


Can we make this a stickie?

  • Spiritwalker2222

    TT Bronze Member

290 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted June 24, 2015 - 07:33 PM


Here's a new map I've tried and it has helped my hot starting issues.

 

2 1 1      0  1 2

2 2 1     -1  0 1

1 2 1     -1 -1 1



  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted July 06, 2015 - 06:27 AM


what level, co?


Here's a new map I've tried and it has helped my hot starting issues.

 

2 1 1      0  1 2

2 2 1     -1  0 1

1 2 1     -1 -1 1

what level, co?



  • Spiritwalker2222

    TT Bronze Member

290 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted July 06, 2015 - 06:29 AM


what level, co?


what level, co?

 

CO 7

 

P.S. While I found that this map made the bike very lively and fun, it made the engine feel like an on off switch between 1/8 throttle to 0 throttle. Which tired me out a lot faster than normal in tight woods riding. So I lowered the timing and fuel on the lower left. I'll post that map when I get home.


Edited by Spiritwalker2222, July 06, 2015 - 06:44 AM.


  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted July 06, 2015 - 06:39 AM


CO 7

 

CO 7

233 -221

244  322

244  333

my map,do not start on a hot



  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted July 06, 2015 - 06:53 AM


CO 7

 

P.S. While I found that this map made the bike very lively and fun, it made the engine feel like an on off switch between 1/8 throttle to 0 throttle. Which tired me out a lot faster than normal in tight woods riding. So I lowered the timing and fuel on the lower left. I'll post that map when I get home.

I will wait!))



  • bradgross71

    TT Bronze Member

274 posts

Posted July 06, 2015 - 04:42 PM


233 -221
244 322
244 333
my map,do not start on a hot

when it doesn't start how do you get it going? I was having same issue and my solution was to hold wide open and cranks a few times, let off and then crank again. Fired up every time.

So that tells me it was a too much fuel issue. I had all fuel at +3 and all ignition at +2 and co at 10.

I changed co to 5 and fuel to +2. Made it better for sure, not great yet but a improvement.

  • Spiritwalker2222

    TT Bronze Member

290 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted July 06, 2015 - 05:08 PM


I will wait!))

My current map is

 

1   1   1      0  1   3

0   1   1    -1   0   1

-1  0   1    -3  -1   0

 

My hot start is better than before, but still present somewhat. To avoid hot start issues, I rev the engine a bit before killing the motor. Motor will start right up afterwards. If I stall the bike, I'll hold the bike WOT and crank a few times like Bradgross said above. Then the bike fires up no problem.

 

I'm going to play with CO setting to see if that helps it, I'll probably lower it back to around 0 and see how it is. I haven't had much time to fiddle with the bike.



  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted July 06, 2015 - 06:20 PM


in transmission heavy on the hot ! when the throttle slightly open, slightly better START,

I WILL TRY TO CHANGE MAP


  • chu

    TT Bronze Member

136 posts
Location: Other

Posted July 07, 2015 - 03:34 AM


If you have the diagnostic tool, you can start it up while it's in CO mode and watch the RPMS.  No need to try random numbers.  Keep leaning it out, idle RPM should increase then it will decrease when you went too far.  Try to set it at the peak.  Make sure it's warmed up first.


  • WRF-Rowdy and Spiritwalker2222 like this
  • Like This

  • voldemar

    TT Member

60 posts
Location: Russia

Posted July 08, 2015 - 12:15 AM


If you have the diagnostic tool, you can start it up while it's in CO mode and watch the RPMS.  No need to try random numbers.  Keep leaning it out, idle RPM should increase then it will decrease when you went too far.  Try to set it at the peak.  Make sure it's warmed up first.

I have a Chinese diagnostic tool,, when I go to - 12 RPM begin to fall!  CO 15 

THE RICH MIXTURE!, CO 7
TOO RICH!
SHOT IN THE MUFFLER FROM THE MOUNTAIN


  • vlxjim

    TT Bronze Member

343 posts
Location: California
Garage View Garage

Posted July 08, 2015 - 01:57 PM


Just for fun try this setup. Everyone that has tried it loves it so far. I get PM's all the time about it. Try it, it just works.

 

CO 15

 

Vlxjim Map

 

 Fuel         Timing

3  4  4      0   0   0

3  5  3     -2  -1  0

3  4  3     -2  -2  0

 

 

:thumbsup:



  • Spiritwalker2222

    TT Bronze Member

290 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted July 09, 2015 - 07:20 AM


As Chu and Rowdy have mentioned, our CO idle is probably too rich. So I decided to see about leaning it out.

 

After a long ride yesturday I hooked up my FI diagnostic tool and found the CO setting that had the highest idle. I found that a CO of -12 (was at +7) gave the highest idle. I then reduced my idle down to 2000 rpm. Changing the CO raised it from 2000 to 2200.

 

The bike seemed to start flawlessly after that, but I only tried a half dozen times in the parking area I was in.

 

I'm hoping that changing the CO hasn't introduced any negative fueling characteristics, but I won't find out till my next ride either this or next weekend.

 

For reference this is the map I'm currently running.

 

 1 1 1      0  1 3

 0 1 1     -1  0 1

-1 0 1     -3 -1 0



  • bradgross71

    TT Bronze Member

274 posts

Posted July 12, 2015 - 02:17 PM


Put my co to zero today, almost perfect hot starts





Related Content

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.