"The Bog" or another issue?


7 replies to this topic
  • electricme

Posted January 14, 2014 - 05:56 AM

#1

Allright folks, I have had my Blue Beauty for a couple of months (06 WR450).  With the weather we have been having I have not had a chance to get it out and actually ride it.  When it warms up I start it and take it for a rip around the neghborhood.  Runs great  (starts hard in the cold) takes about 6-10 trys to get her started initially but fires right up when warm...  Regardless, the issue that I have is that I started it one day to check the oil, let it run for a good 3-5 minutes.  I Cracked the throttle hard, basically from idle to WOT and the bike just stalls.

 

Is this the dreaded Bog issue or possibly another problem with my Jetting?  the bike came pre jetted.  I have all of the stock jets but am not 100% sure what is in it. I will be tearing it down at some point but am very unsure of what the AP is and how to adjust it properly if it is "the bog" 

 

I have read the entire bog thread in the stickies  but it is VERY unclear to me  I understand the problem but do not have a DIY to correct it.  Looking for some insight, not trying to ruffle feathers.  Im an electrical engineer not a mechanic.  I can take things apart and put them back together quite well but I am lost on technical carburerator terminology.  Is this a job for someone else?

 

Incase you havent seen my posts I have the following mods to the bike:

 

AIS Removed

Throttle stop Shortened

Grey Wire delete

All new Jetting ( I was told only the ones that needed it)  getting more information on the exacts from the previous owner.

GYTR Slip on

Air Box Snorkel Hacked.

 

 

Thanks for any help!

 

Pics for Clicks:

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • photo.JPG


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted January 14, 2014 - 10:46 AM

#2

Read this

 

http://www.dirtrider...r_carb_rebuild/

 

if that does not scare you away, then there is more besides that regarding the apump set up and tuning.

 

If it does, you need to take it to a tuner. NOT a dealer.



  • electricme

Posted January 14, 2014 - 12:26 PM

#3

Read this

 

http://www.dirtrider...r_carb_rebuild/

 

if that does not scare you away, then there is more besides that regarding the apump set up and tuning.

 

If it does, you need to take it to a tuner. NOT a dealer.

That doesnt scare me a have stripped down and cleaned a few carbs as well as re jetted.  My issue is i am unfamiliar with the whole AP pump issue and how to fix/ tweak it.  I get mixed reports saying that the oring and tying tips are BS as long as you have a proper carb setup and AP setup...  IDK  been reading to much just need to start working on it.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted January 14, 2014 - 12:49 PM

#4

The dreaded bog: how to fix it.

 

  • New 2007+ CRF450R accelerator pump (ap) diaphragm. This is the very short rivet diagpragm. You have to have this.
  • Stretch the ap diaphragm spring out 15mm longer
  • soak the ap cover check ball section in solvent to free up the check ball (just do it) till you can hear it moving
  • Install new Tokyo Mods racing apump linkage spring in place of the stock one (the oring does not last, and wiring can bind)
  • 40/45/50 leak jet (no backfire screen+ twinair/ twin air / stock filter)
  • put it all together
  • lift up your subframe (dead engine) and watch the squirt
  • it should miss the slide every time, but just barely, and last 1 second (leak jet size)
  • if you need to delay the squirt, turn the linkage screw (under the throttle wheel cover) clockwise
  • if the squirt does not shoot all the way into the head, or dribbles or sprays erratically: you need to clean the brass ap nozzle in the intake bell using real carb cleaner. spray the carb cleaner up the angled passage at the back of the carb body under the float bowl cover. Make sure your throttle is held wide open when you do this, cause the cleaner can damage the slide plate seal. Spray, and wait 15 min and spray again, until the spray from the nozzle is good. This could take many sprays if it's corroded. Be patient.
  • test ap system again
  • now, adjust your fuel screw. if your fuel screw is not adjusted properly, you will get idle-bog.
  • set your fuel screw at 1 turn out. start motor. drop idle as low as it will go
  • now raise the idle with the fuel screw to max idle rpm
  • if it goes too high, drop the idle with the idle screw again, and repeat
  • must be adjusted with a steaming hot motor (throttle body must be warmed up)
  • now adjust fuel screw in 1/8 turns for quick rpm drop after blipping. 
  •  


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  • electricme

Posted January 15, 2014 - 07:03 AM

#5

 

The dreaded bog: how to fix it.

 

  • New 2007+ CRF450R accelerator pump (ap) diaphragm. This is the very short rivet diagpragm. You have to have this.
  • Stretch the ap diaphragm spring out 15mm longer
  • soak the ap cover check ball section in solvent to free up the check ball (just do it) till you can hear it moving
  • Install new Tokyo Mods racing apump linkage spring in place of the stock one (the oring does not last, and wiring can bind)
  • 40/45/50 leak jet (no backfire screen+ twinair/ twin air / stock filter)
  • put it all together
  • lift up your subframe (dead engine) and watch the squirt
  • it should miss the slide every time, but just barely, and last 1 second (leak jet size)
  • if you need to delay the squirt, turn the linkage screw (under the throttle wheel cover) clockwise
  • if the squirt does not shoot all the way into the head, or dribbles or sprays erratically: you need to clean the brass ap nozzle in the intake bell using real carb cleaner. spray the carb cleaner up the angled passage at the back of the carb body under the float bowl cover. Make sure your throttle is held wide open when you do this, cause the cleaner can damage the slide plate seal. Spray, and wait 15 min and spray again, until the spray from the nozzle is good. This could take many sprays if it's corroded. Be patient.
  • test ap system again
  • now, adjust your fuel screw. if your fuel screw is not adjusted properly, you will get idle-bog.
  • set your fuel screw at 1 turn out. start motor. drop idle as low as it will go
  • now raise the idle with the fuel screw to max idle rpm
  • if it goes too high, drop the idle with the idle screw again, and repeat
  • must be adjusted with a steaming hot motor (throttle body must be warmed up)
  • now adjust fuel screw in 1/8 turns for quick rpm drop after blipping. 
  •  

2007 CRF+  I have a 06 WR450... are the steps the same?


Edited by electricme, January 15, 2014 - 07:03 AM.


  • miweber929

Posted January 15, 2014 - 05:01 PM

#6

He's telling you to buy an 07 or newer CRF450 diaphram, its a better design.

Mike

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted January 15, 2014 - 05:44 PM

#7

Same carb, almost the same jetting.

Honda pushed Keihin to upgrade their carbs, and Honda reaped the benefit  a few years of everyone else.

If you have a short rivet diaphragm already, it's moot.



  • electricme

Posted January 16, 2014 - 07:51 AM

#8

He's telling you to buy an 07 or newer CRF450 diaphram, its a better design.

Mike

ahhh i see that makes sense... well I will be tackling this job this weekend...  i will keep everyone posted.






 
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