Trading Up to a WR -- Liabilities?


30 replies to this topic
  • woods-rider

Posted January 14, 2014 - 12:32 PM

#21

So for me, the carb access hasn't been an issue :thumbsup:

 

Me too with my 2012 :p .

 

I bought my 2006 new in Jan 2006 and just sold it in Aug 2013 with around 1000 hrs on the motor with no rebuild or anything more significant than some new clutch plates and one valve adjustment. She was as solid as a rock and not once in the time I had her did I regret my purchase. That being said, my new 2013 is leaps and bounds better with, I hope, the same rock solid motor. The fuel injection is flawless, the new suspension is phenomenal (even compared to my revalved 2006 stuff), and she feels 40 lbs lighter when riding!



  • Navaho6

Posted January 14, 2014 - 05:07 PM

#22

What did you get for your 2006?  Is a 1000 hrs accurate or just a guess?  That's 4 times the hours I have on my 2006, and I've been tracking mine every ride.



  • Rapper1

Posted January 14, 2014 - 05:40 PM

#23

I've got a 2003 WR 450F bout used in 2012 with less than 130 miles on it. I know, hard to believe, but that bike was showroom clean. Anyway, it is a very tall bike and can get even taller with a fresh set of aggressive knobbies. As mentioned earlier, but only once, the '03s had an issue with the Woodruff key shearing in the starter clutch. If this happens, you cannot start it with the button or the kick. You would be stuck! An easy fix with '04 parts. Takes about 5 minutes, but will cost you.

 

Great bike for sure. I cleaned the carb on my bike, as it too would not start. Once I did though, I was good to go. There was a recent article in Dirt Rider about the '03 vs. the '13. In the end, the '03 was found to be better than the new bike on trail. Good luck and let us know!

-Rap



  • KennyMc

Posted January 14, 2014 - 05:43 PM

#24

Me too with my 2012 :p .

 

I bought my 2006 new in Jan 2006 and just sold it in Aug 2013 with around 1000 hrs on the motor with no rebuild or anything more significant than some new clutch plates and one valve adjustment. She was as solid as a rock and not once in the time I had her did I regret my purchase. That being said, my new 2013 is leaps and bounds better with, I hope, the same rock solid motor. The fuel injection is flawless, the new suspension is phenomenal (even compared to my revalved 2006 stuff), and she feels 40 lbs lighter when riding!

The only reason I did the valves was cause I decided I wanted some extra umpf so I installed the YZ cams, did a clean up port job and went up .5 on the piston.  So I figured it was time for the valve train to be done.  This was in May of 2012 and I had never even done a valve adjustment.  The bike was running great, starting great, no signs of it wearing out.  My motor guy wanted to re-use some of the valves but I replaced them all.

 

This along with the YZ suspension and I am very happy with the way she runs and handles.  Oh, and she is plated :applause:



  • woods-rider

Posted January 14, 2014 - 08:06 PM

#25

The only reason I did the valves was cause I decided I wanted some extra umpf so I installed the YZ cams, did a clean up port job and went up .5 on the piston.  So I figured it was time for the valve train to be done.  This was in May of 2012 and I had never even done a valve adjustment.  The bike was running great, starting great, no signs of it wearing out.  My motor guy wanted to re-use some of the valves but I replaced them all.

 

This along with the YZ suspension and I am very happy with the way she runs and handles.  Oh, and she is plated :applause:

 

God bless the WR450F!



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  • mrgem

Posted January 14, 2014 - 08:43 PM

#26

What amount would you be willing to pay for 2005 WR450 with lots of goodies and street legal?

Well, I bought the 2003 model. Finally got it running -- using a can of starting fluid -- and a lot of kicking. It will still need to have the carb rebuilt.

 

This bike has a title and tags..., and even has the original chain and sprockets (which are in great shape).It still has the original front tire, but is on its second rear tire (which is used up).  I don't think this bike has a ton of hours on it. But the next challenge will be to get the bike down an inch or two and to get the carb cleaned out. I'd also like to get someone to upgrade the starter so that I do not experience the "woodruff key shearing" that I've read about.

 

Although most of the equipment added by the seller is good stuff, there are a couple of things I'll be changing. The bike originally had a Vapor speedo/computer, which the seller cannot find. I'll have to replace it.  The bike has an FMF exhaust -- along with some big fat, fancy head pipe, that will have to go. Wayyyyy too loud for my tastes. The seller gave me the factory muffler/intermediate pipe -- but without the factory head pipe...So I will be looking to trade the FMF for an original Yamaha system. 

 

The bike is otherwise pretty well equipped -- with some trick handlebars, a bash plate. and premium hand guards. The only other thing I think it should require are a set of radiator guards. Anyone have a suggestion as to whose work best on an early WR? I've had bikes with Devol guards and they did not impress me. Unabiker makes a good guard for the later model WRs - but doesn't have a listing for 2003 bikes.  

 

Thanks to all who've helped me make the decision to buy a WR. I'm looking forward to riding this relative lightweight this spring!



  • ftl900

Posted January 16, 2014 - 09:25 AM

#27

I recently did the same thing, moving up from a DR350SE to a 2000 WR400 kicker, with the 3.2 gallon tank.    

 

For folks that need to get your bike plated, look at the TUSK DS kit, it was just less than $200.  

The Tusk kit is similar to the Baja Designs kit- very straightforward to install with no big surprises other than how easily those cheap mirrors break at the mounting bracket during installation.  

I actually superglued the mirror bracket, and have a different set of cheap plastic mirrors on the way from Amazon.

 

The Tusk kit doesn't come with a headlight, but it does include a tail light.  I didn't use it since the WR400 already had both.  

The WR400 also has dual filament bulbs and the extra wiring for the front and rear, so it's already set up for you to add the brake switches to the existing hardware.

In Nevada, I needed front and rear brake light, so I ordered an additional hydraulic switch with my order (avoiding separate shipping charges).   

 

I expect the bike will stay mostly stock except for a  few things: an exhaust upgrade to FMF or similar system,

I'm also going to add a AC/DC converter so I can run the DS kit and a GPS or cell phone off the bike power.  

A new Moose Racing rear fender pack is already on the way, and I picked up a Panoram cycle computer (similar to the Vapor), but haven't mounted it yet,  

That will help with trip mileage (fuel) and speed.  

 

1654_m.jpg



  • woods-rider

Posted January 16, 2014 - 09:33 AM

#28

What did you get for your 2006?  Is a 1000 hrs accurate or just a guess?  That's 4 times the hours I have on my 2006, and I've been tracking mine every ride.

 

I got $2800 for it, plus I sold my 3.3 gal Acerbis tank for $150.

 

1000 hrs is a guess, but an educated one. I ride with people who have hour meters, so I get some numbers to compare to. Also, I had a Voyager on it for the last 9 months I owned it to track time and have since put that Voyager on my 2012. I have put a tad over 47 hrs on my 2012 since I bought it at the end of August 2013. I have not changed how often I ride since getting the new bike and I ride just as much in winter as I do in the summer so if I extrapolate out the 47 hrs in 4.5 months that gives 125.333 hrs per year, multiply that by the 7.5 years I had my 2006 and it gives 940 hrs total. So, 1000 hrs is not totally accurate, but it's also not a complete guess either. If anything, it's probably low. My first daughter was born in late 2009 and my riding time has gone down a bit since then meaning that 125 hrs a year is probably low for years 2006-2009.


Edited by woods-rider, January 16, 2014 - 09:37 AM.


  • mebgardner

Posted January 17, 2014 - 07:08 AM

#29

Well, I bought the 2003 model. Finally got it running -- using a can of starting fluid -- and a lot of kicking. It will still need to have the carb rebuilt.

 

This bike has a title and tags..., and even has the original chain and sprockets (which are in great shape).It still has the original front tire, but is on its second rear tire (which is used up).  I don't think this bike has a ton of hours on it. But the next challenge will be to get the bike down an inch or two and to get the carb cleaned out. I'd also like to get someone to upgrade the starter so that I do not experience the "woodruff key shearing" that I've read about.

 

Although most of the equipment added by the seller is good stuff, there are a couple of things I'll be changing. The bike originally had a Vapor speedo/computer, which the seller cannot find. I'll have to replace it.  The bike has an FMF exhaust -- along with some big fat, fancy head pipe, that will have to go. Wayyyyy too loud for my tastes. The seller gave me the factory muffler/intermediate pipe -- but without the factory head pipe...So I will be looking to trade the FMF for an original Yamaha system. 

 

The bike is otherwise pretty well equipped -- with some trick handlebars, a bash plate. and premium hand guards. The only other thing I think it should require are a set of radiator guards. Anyone have a suggestion as to whose work best on an early WR? I've had bikes with Devol guards and they did not impress me. Unabiker makes a good guard for the later model WRs - but doesn't have a listing for 2003 bikes.  

 

Thanks to all who've helped me make the decision to buy a WR. I'm looking forward to riding this relative lightweight this spring!

 

Congrats! Good riding is in your near future.



  • mrgem

Posted January 18, 2014 - 07:42 AM

#30

I recently did the same thing, moving up from a DR350SE to a 2000 WR400 kicker, with the 3.2 gallon tank.    

 

For folks that need to get your bike plated, look at the TUSK DS kit, it was just less than $200.  

The Tusk kit is similar to the Baja Designs kit- very straightforward to install with no big surprises other than how easily those cheap mirrors break at the mounting bracket during installation.  

I actually superglued the mirror bracket, and have a different set of cheap plastic mirrors on the way from Amazon.

 

The Tusk kit doesn't come with a headlight, but it does include a tail light.  I didn't use it since the WR400 already had both.  

The WR400 also has dual filament bulbs and the extra wiring for the front and rear, so it's already set up for you to add the brake switches to the existing hardware.

In Nevada, I needed front and rear brake light, so I ordered an additional hydraulic switch with my order (avoiding separate shipping charges).   

 

I expect the bike will stay mostly stock except for a  few things: an exhaust upgrade to FMF or similar system,

I'm also going to add a AC/DC converter so I can run the DS kit and a GPS or cell phone off the bike power.  

A new Moose Racing rear fender pack is already on the way, and I picked up a Panoram cycle computer (similar to the Vapor), but haven't mounted it yet,  

That will help with trip mileage (fuel) and speed.  

 

1654_m.jpg

Any feedback on that Panorama speedo? My newly-acquired 2003 WR has a mounting bracket for a Vapor, but no speedo. PO said he "lost it." Hopefully, I'll be able to find a replacement that will fit the mount already on the bike.


Edited by mrgem, January 18, 2014 - 07:43 AM.


  • ftl900

Posted January 21, 2014 - 10:59 AM

#31

I don't have the Panoram mounted up yet, but I need to get it done quickly, because my OEM odometer doesn't work, and I need to know fuel mileage.   

I have 3 Death Valley trips planned in the next 100 days (two listed on ADV Rider and one on My2Wheels.com), and managing fuel range will be critical there.

 

My buddy has a Trail Tech Voyager with the built-in GPS, and I'm thinking about upgrading to that, but not right now.






 
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