I've read on another thread that the GYTR Comp ECU will sense the atmospheric and engine condition on startup / bootup, and perform a self adjustment to the FI mapping, based on current conditions. That adjustment does not change during that ECU "ride" time period.
The thread also stated there is a built in clock which retards the timing -4 / -5 deg. for the 1st 5 hours of / from (new) operation.
I think I understand that the "current conditions" mapping can be reset from stock ECU values to current conditions ECU values by following the procedure listed.
Page #3, Post #51 and #54.
My question is: Does the need for this particual startup / kill / restart process ever go away? When?
A follow-on question is: Do I wait until the built in timer expires before adjusting the Idle / CO mix, using the "factory" tool? That is, I dont go to the dealer requesting the Idle mix be adjusted until the "clock" expires? (This affects "hard-starting", and possibly "boil-over" and "cherry red header" conditions, is why I'm asking. I want to get it done, and they're possibly related to the Idle settings...)
Here's the gist of it:
The GYTR ECU DOES change the entire map, both fuel and ignition.....but the TUNER does not affect the new ECU below 4000rpm.
Without the GYTR ECU, it will NEVER RUN CORRECTLY.
The stock ECU has a clock in it. Until it sees 5 hours, it WILL NOT RUN OR START CORRECTLY because the ignition is retarded -4 until it passes 5 hours. This is SOP on all FI bikes now, so new owners won't seize the motor in the first few hours of riding.......
On the first batch of KTM EXC's, the clock was 10 hours, and it drove everyone nuts.....
Remember, when you start the bike, let it warm up to get to full temp, for a few minutes.......and then.....
Then kill the motor for 3 min, restart the bike WITHOUT ANY THROTTLE OR THROTTLE BLIPS, and let it idle for at least one minute.
Kill the motor, and then re-start and ride as desired.
This will allow the ECU to re-map to the info from the Mass Air Pressure and Temp sensors, correcting the F/I and Ignition map for your riding area.
The ECU mapping CANNOT / WILL NOT CHANGE WHILE YOU ARE RIDING.
So if you go up in attitude you have to repeat the last two steps, if you notice the bike running rich or lean.
I contacted Kehien (and KTM) when I was having trouble with my 2012 KTM 500 XC-W, with excessive leanness and terrible throttle linearity.
They gave me a wealth of information, which took a few months to get clarified and distilled down to some usable information.
I have since learned that the ECU used on one version of the Kehien Throttle Body (the one used on KTM MX, the new WR, and the new 2011/12 CRF450R) is the same on all bikes, electronically. Just the mapping and physical shape are different, and some are LOCKED OUT, like the WR, the EXC's and the TE Husky's. You have to 'unlock' them, or replace them with a 'competition' version, like on the WR, if you want the bike to start, idle, go fast, not stall, and not over heat. Minor, issues, eh?
The 'map adjust' feature on the ECU is on all ECU's, but is not necessarily 'active' on all ECU's (Honda CRF450R for example).
It is there to allow 'instant jetting adjustment' by the rider (but only =/- 10% maximum).
You have to do it with a warm motor; one minute of staring and idling with NO throttle, shut off, and then re start and go.
It will also adjust the igniton mapping, but only =/- 1 or 2%, I am told.
Some of the information I gathered from KTM and Kehien was extremely conflicting, even within the same company, so it got very frustrating trying to 'nail down' the exact issues, solutions, and methods.
If the FI system were a closed-loop type system, it would also adjust for more severe issues (clogged injector, extremely high humidity) and do it on the fly, but we don't have that level of sophistication on off-road bikes yet.
Oh, and what happened to the KTM? Well, three over-heated throttle bodies later, I sold it.
The 2012 models have TONS of TB problems, especially the 500, which ran too hot to solve the problems permanently......