WR450 Steering Bearing Service Procedure?


9 replies to this topic
  • mebgardner

Posted January 08, 2014 - 10:17 AM

#1

I'm the owner of a new 2013 WR450F, and I'm getting ready to install a Scotts stabilizer.

 

I figure as long as I'm in there, I'll do the recommended initial grease service (Bel-Ray waterproof) on the steering head bearing, too.

 

But, I'm looking at the Users Service manual, and it does not list "fork removal" as part of the service procedure to service the lower / upper steering bearing's service procedures.

 

Reading the manual, I would believe it's advising me to leave the forks in place as I remove the upper triple clamp and steering head nut, and lower the steering stem.

 

But, I'll bet that's not correct.

 

Can anyone point me at a you-tube, or a thread which demonstrates the correct procedures?

 

Thanks.



  • mebgardner

Posted January 08, 2014 - 10:47 AM

#2

OK, I found this thread.

 

I think it's everything I needed to know:

 

http://www.thumperta...head-09-wr450f/



  • Navaho6

Posted January 08, 2014 - 11:36 AM

#3

Just did that a couple of weeks ago. 

 

Put your bike on a center stand so that both wheels are barely touching the ground.  Put a chock in front of and in back of the front wheel so that it cannot go forward or backward.  Once you remove the nut under the top triple clamp, the front end will separate from the frame rather suddenly.

 

When you retighten the nut, you want it just tight enough to take the slop out (grab forks and push/pull to feel when the slop is out.)  Do not overtighten or your bearings will not last.



  • Ride-n-Hard

Posted January 08, 2014 - 04:42 PM

#4

I'm the owner of a new 2013 WR450F, and I'm getting ready to install a Scotts stabilizer.

 

I figure as long as I'm in there, I'll do the recommended initial grease service (Bel-Ray waterproof) on the steering head bearing, too.

 

But, I'm looking at the Users Service manual, and it does not list "fork removal" as part of the service procedure to service the lower / upper steering bearing's service procedures.

 

Reading the manual, I would believe it's advising me to leave the forks in place as I remove the upper triple clamp and steering head nut, and lower the steering stem.

 

But, I'll bet that's not correct.

 

Can anyone point me at a you-tube, or a thread which demonstrates the correct procedures?

 

Thanks.

What mount are you going to use for the scotts? All my other bikes have had the brp submounts. I've been thinking as well to get this for my '12 as well.



  • mebgardner

Posted January 09, 2014 - 06:34 AM

#5

Just did that a couple of weeks ago. 

 

Put your bike on a center stand so that both wheels are barely touching the ground.  Put a chock in front of and in back of the front wheel so that it cannot go forward or backward.  Once you remove the nut under the top triple clamp, the front end will separate from the frame rather suddenly.

 

When you retighten the nut, you want it just tight enough to take the slop out (grab forks and push/pull to feel when the slop is out.)  Do not overtighten or your bearings will not last.

 

 

OK, thanks.  But, now I'm a bit confused about the sequence of procedures.

 

I was going to remove the front wheel first, followed by fork removal, then followed by nut under top triple clamp.

 

It now sounds like that's not correct.

 

Please advise?



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  • mebgardner

Posted January 09, 2014 - 06:37 AM

#6

What mount are you going to use for the scotts? All my other bikes have had the brp submounts. I've been thinking as well to get this for my '12 as well.

 

I ordered the Scotts SUB mount, for OEM (standard) bar, standard bar position, with rubber mounts.

 

I think it was close to $700.00 all in.  Sound pricey, right?

 

Ever have the bar yanked out of your hand, gone flying off a cliff from it?

 

I can't ride where I ride without one of these and continue to survive intact.

 

Peace of mind: Priceless :)



  • Ride-n-Hard

Posted January 09, 2014 - 09:57 AM

#7

I ordered the Scotts SUB mount, for OEM (standard) bar, standard bar position, with rubber mounts.

 

I think it was close to $700.00 all in.  Sound pricey, right?

 

 

If this is like you ordered then it kind of does.

http://brpmoto.com/p...ategory_id=1946

 



  • Navaho6

Posted January 09, 2014 - 02:26 PM

#8

If you want to save a few steps, do not remove the wheel.  Follow these steps:

 

Chock the front wheel so that it cant roll forward or backwards.  Do the same behind the rear wheel, just in case. 

 

Remove handlebar clamp.

 

Pull handle bars up and over the headlight. Use a bungee cord to hold it in that position so it is out of your way. 

 

Remove top nut on triple clamp and loosen side bolts at each fork tube.

 

Use rubber hammer to remove top triple clamp

 

Using a big set of pliers or pipe wrench, loosen the nut over the steering stem.  You don't need that special wrench.  The nut should be easy to turn, under 10 FT-LBS of torque.   Be ready.  The front end is now free from the frame.  That's why you want the bike on a stand and balanced, with wheels chocked.  You can now wiggle the front end enough to expose the bottom bearing.  Grease top and bottom bearings.



  • mebgardner

Posted January 09, 2014 - 03:18 PM

#9

Ah!  Very Useful!  It sounds appropriate and good for grease service only, with mebbe a finger check for no race gouging, and no use of solvent for bearing cleaning before re-grease.

 

Still, very useful.

 

Thanks...



  • mebgardner

Posted January 12, 2014 - 04:35 PM

#10

If you want to save a few steps, do not remove the wheel.  Follow these steps:

 

Chock the front wheel so that it cant roll forward or backwards.  Do the same behind the rear wheel, just in case. 

 

Remove handlebar clamp.

 

Pull handle bars up and over the headlight. Use a bungee cord to hold it in that position so it is out of your way. 

 

Remove top nut on triple clamp and loosen side bolts at each fork tube.

 

Use rubber hammer to remove top triple clamp

 

Using a big set of pliers or pipe wrench, loosen the nut over the steering stem.  You don't need that special wrench.  The nut should be easy to turn, under 10 FT-LBS of torque.   Be ready.  The front end is now free from the frame.  That's why you want the bike on a stand and balanced, with wheels chocked.  You can now wiggle the front end enough to expose the bottom bearing.  Grease top and bottom bearings.

 

This procedure worked fine. I had plenty of room to grease up the lower bearing with little effort to get to them.

 

But, it's not a re-pack.  It's just a "get more on'em" method.  Clean and repack will require removing the fork tubes and then the lower clamp stem.






 
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