2014 purchase


17 replies to this topic
  • RLV199

Posted December 20, 2013 - 03:44 PM

#1

Okay so Im about to go out and buy my first New bike, a 2014 yz450f. I would just like to know what I need to be aware of with the new ffuel injected bikes (i was on an 07 Yz250f) or just anything i should look out for on the 2014.

Id like to know all the 2014s issues right away, if any.

Im a 160lb B racer about how should my sag be set as well as other suspension set up tips.

annddd I've never bought a from the factory bike so how should I break it in?

ill probably have a million questions once i get it home but this will help.

  • J_YZ2fittyF

Posted December 20, 2013 - 05:14 PM

#2

Okay so Im about to go out and buy my first New bike, a 2014 yz450f. I would just like to know what I need to be aware of with the new ffuel injected bikes (i was on an 07 Yz250f) or just anything i should look out for on the 2014.

Id like to know all the 2014s issues right away, if any.

Im a 160lb B racer about how should my sag be set as well as other suspension set up tips.

annddd I've never bought a from the factory bike so how should I break it in?

ill probably have a million questions once i get it home but this will help.

 

Not sure on the rest for that bike, I forget the numbers for the sag tbh. For the break in, I would at least read this.

 

http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm

 

It's how I did my 269 kit in my YZ250F, and its also the way a number of people here suggest. It makes sense IMO. So far with 10hrs on my bike, its running strong. Im sure when I do a piston I will get a good look at things then with probably 40hrs on it by that point (unless it turns out needing it sooner).

 

Doing it this way is scary because it goes against what we think we know. But what we think we know is what was probably needed at one time, before materials advanced, lol.

 

I will also add that you should get (if you dont have) some quality grease for the linkage, etc. Buddy of mine bought the same bike, brought it out to the track for race weekend. Morning of practice we took all that stuff apart and re-greased it all. There wasn't a whole lot in there. Good time to double check bolts and such too.


Edited by J_WR2fitty, December 20, 2013 - 05:16 PM.


  • RLV199

Posted December 20, 2013 - 05:20 PM

#3

So just ride it hard out the crate??

  • J_YZ2fittyF

Posted December 20, 2013 - 06:17 PM

#4

Basically ya. lol. I mean i let mine warm up (til my radiators were warm to the touch). Then I rode a lap or less not ON it yet. Then I just rode it as usual. I was more saying look into the method a bit more. I mean its a hell of a cash outlay, i'd rather you were comfortable doing it however you see fit...in the end, its YOUR bike. I just know I did it this way, and it was recommended to ME by people whose opinions around here I feel have credibility.

 

I haven't read that guys article in a while, so I cant remember if I seen it there or heard from someone else, but they likened it to crotch rockets lasting so long. I mean, guys buy em, you think they keep the RPM low for the first xx miles? Hell no, they get it out and unless they are real scared of it, get on it to see what kinda azz-pucker they're money got em, lol.


Edited by J_WR2fitty, December 20, 2013 - 06:18 PM.


  • RLV199

Posted December 20, 2013 - 06:52 PM

#5

I've heard to get on the pipe harrdd and then chop the throttle and let it coast then repeat for idk half a tank of gas or so idk if there is any credibility to it

  • yellow ketchup

Posted December 20, 2013 - 06:57 PM

#6

How is a B rider not aware of what suspension work he needs? Even when I was a wee lad, riding C class I knew to an extent what I needed....anyhow, on break-in make sure you do heat cycles..breaking in a top end is different than a complete engine...you are breaking in gears, crank, etc...

  • J_YZ2fittyF

Posted December 20, 2013 - 06:59 PM

#7

Yea that is another point I honestly didn't even consider...because mine was just a top end, so I am not sure if mototune is geared for a WHOLE motor break in or ONLY for top ends. Again, if the crotch rocket off the showroom floor thing I mentioned is legit, then, that would be a whole motor going through that too. He says "NEW engine", but mostly talks about rings. I assume he means a whole new motor, but not sure on that. Anyways, if you feel comfortable doing it the prescribed way by Yamaha, by all means do that. Or ask someone like grayracer who knows a lot of sheit.


Edited by J_WR2fitty, December 20, 2013 - 07:03 PM.


  • RLV199

Posted December 20, 2013 - 07:02 PM

#8

Haha longevity is all i need more of

  • MxSkater86

Posted December 20, 2013 - 11:29 PM

#9

I would suggest a PC linkage arm to lower the rear end, it is really high in the back. Read Motocross Action's article on the 2014 yz 450 as they tell you a good way to set everything up.

 

As far as suspension goes, the stock stuff is kinda stiff so some springs might be the first things to get. Also get yourself a GYTR tuner because right from the factory the mapping is a little lean. Other than that just play with bar positioning and lever positioning and you should be set.

 

The break-in procedure I use is to start it up and let it idle for a little while then shut it down. Wait 10 minutes, then fire it back up and blip the throttle for a little bit and only go half throttle, then shut it down. Wait another 10 minutes, and take it for a few laps at about 50% of my speed, then let it rip.

 

Also don't forget to drain your oil after the first ride...



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  • RLV199

Posted December 21, 2013 - 02:42 PM

#10

How is a B rider not aware of what suspension work he needs? Even when I was a wee lad, riding C class I knew to an extent what I needed.....

yeah first year B rider i just got bumped but Im no suspension expert i know simple stuff, stiffer softer more rebound, but anything about the suspension set up that's a bit tough to figure out?

  • yamahakid88

Posted December 21, 2013 - 06:28 PM

#11

First step, post pictures when you get her home!



  • zeuszuki

Posted December 21, 2013 - 08:19 PM

#12

You could always run it in as per the manual. Seems to have worked out OK for thousands of people up to now :-)

  • motoxjeff

Posted December 22, 2013 - 05:57 AM

#13

You do not need a lowering link. Set your sag at 110, and move the forks up a little bit. You'll be good. Leave the bars in the back position.

  • 250premixer

Posted December 22, 2013 - 09:14 AM

#14

So just ride it hard out the crate??

no don't do that lol

  • RLV199

Posted December 22, 2013 - 09:40 AM

#15

no don't do that lol

thought that was a ill advised plan

  • grayracer513

Posted December 22, 2013 - 10:38 AM

#16

Read the manual.  Break it in that way.  It works.



  • RLV199

Posted December 22, 2013 - 11:11 AM

#17

Read the manual. Break it in that way. It works.

will do

  • cory151

Posted December 23, 2013 - 09:56 PM

#18

My 2014 went straight from the showroom floor to the track.  The manual basically says avoid WOT which 95% of the people buying these cannot utilize anyway. I personally never get on any bike and start ripping it until I trust the way it handles.  These bikes are really new still  with no previous model years to go off to tell you "what to look out for."  Besides if I told you (some guy on the internet) I had an issue with my 14 would you not buy one?  If you end up buying it enjoy it and set the suspension up for your riding style.  I set mine up with 110 sag and moved the forks up and Im happy with it.  







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