Helped needed by a GreenHorn



4 replies to this topic
  • ThomasYZ426F

Posted December 28, 2001 - 03:37 AM

#1

Hello Everyone

I am getting ready to complete my first maintenance schedule on my 426. I have about 3 hours of ride time on the bike and plan to change my plug, tighten my chain, drain my radiator and change the oil.

I asked the parts manager at the dealership which plug to use and he sold me an NGK. Do you guys use an NGK in your bike, or is there something better out there?

Also I have read where a lot of you are using Mobil 1 10W50 instead of YamaLube. Is this the best oil to use?

I would also like to drain the radiator. What type of coolant/antifreeze should I use?

I just completed the BK Mod to my bike. I got to ride it for about 15 minutes after the Mod. It ran great but would sputter a little on decal. Now it will not start at all. I’m thinking the plug is fouled due to all the testing during the BK Mod, and the weather has went from a little chilly to butt a$$ cold.

As always, thanks for all the help to the greenest rider here.

  • Shawn_Mc

Posted December 28, 2001 - 09:01 AM

#2

make sure your pump timing is right. As far as the plug goes, Ive had the same plug in my bike for a year. I take it out and look at it, end up putting it back in. You might wanna check the plug to see if its fouled if your bike wont start. At least rule that out. Anti freeze is a seasonal thing really. Bout' once a year is sufficent for most guys (unless your Tim Ferry or something). Ive been using Belrey EXC. Ive used Mobile 1 and Golden Spectro. I can tell no difference. There has been more debate on the oil thing on this site than you can imagine. good luck

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  • Ga426owner

Posted December 28, 2001 - 10:41 PM

#3

Before you embark on your journey: You are better off taking the handlebars& top tripleclamp off to get to the steering head bearings top & bottom to pack full of Belray waterproof grease(I do this every 2-3 months) & remove the swingarm to lube all bearings & linkage w same. These come pretty dry from factory & heat from hot oil in the downtube of the frame destroys what grease would have been in the steering bearings & the swingarm/linkage is pretty dry also. 3Hrs of use - Do not worry about the coolant yet, just check the level. Check plug condition. Most of the new426's come out running a little rich as your plug will show - dark/carbon. A little tip - if you replace plug - when cleaning the bike, always plug the drain hole on the side of the cylinder/exhaust side with a golf tie/ti - this keeps trash from entering the plug hole & staying there, then remove it. I use Yamalube 4R only with great results - change after every race or every 2nd to 3rd ride. My clutch has lasted longer than when I used Mobil1 (a very personal thing - please no comments) . Also air temp has huge bearing on how these bikes run. My 426 does not like anything below 45 degrees w/o lots of popping & difficult starting -- you must adjust airfuel screw (richer or leaner) to compensate for lower temps (make sure you record factory spec by counting number of turns in to full tight). My BK mod works wonderful! Patience is key on the work to get to those bearings. Also lube your front & rear axles inside the hubs - makes life easier when disassembling.......I also would throw away stock 3hr chain for a decent to good 520 DID or Renthal or ??? otherwise you will being tightening almost every ride. Hope this helps - Happy Thumpin!

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted December 28, 2001 - 11:54 AM

#4

Tips from a former Greenhorn (me!):

(1) Plug - 2001 YZ 426 uses an NGK CR8E. You can get them for $3 at O'Reilly - it's their part #1275. Dealers will often give you the CR9 so you should check what you got.

(2) Oil - use high quality non-synthetic such as Yamalube 4 (not 4R which is semi-synth) until after a good break-in period, then switch to 4R or a good non-energy conserving synthetic. I didn't start with the semi-synth until 20 hrs. I have not had any issues with my clutch with the semi-sythn but I am going to try the mobil 1 redcap on my next oil change. Some people swear by it.

(3) Cold starting - If it is colder than about 50 degrees and you have a stock bike and jetting, you will need to turn your fuel screw out at least a half-turn, maybe more. The bike will run way too lean otherwise (this is your popping and hanging idle). Put a new plug in, check your fuel screw setting then try turning it out a half turn (but not more than 2.75), give two full blips of the throttle, choke out. This may get it rich enough to start. Otherwise you're going to need a bigger pilot jet. When it got to 40 degrees here I was out 2.75 turns with a stock 42 pilot (I'm now at a 45 pilot but it's warm again - damn!).


Also, you may not need the hot start as much when it is cold out. The hot start leans the mixture but if you are lean anyway... got it?

Good Luck,

Steve T

  • mxracer553

Posted December 28, 2001 - 02:21 PM

#5

thete is a better plug than the standard NGK plug use the platinum plug it is a CR8EVX plauinum is a better than the standard plug. I use silkolene race lube it is simi synthetic 20W-50 and I use silkolens PRO COOL for my anti freez. Hope that helps!





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