2013 OEM Spring Rates?


13 replies to this topic
  • Navaho6

Posted December 08, 2013 - 08:01 AM

#1

Manual shows .46 kg fork springs, Race Tech says they are .49 kg.  Which one is correct?

 

Manual shows 5.51 kg shock spring, Race Tech says they are 5.7 kg.  Which one is correct?



  • Navaho6

Posted December 08, 2013 - 08:06 AM

#2

This article agrees with the shop manual.  (Aussie bike)

 

http://dirtaction.co...yamaha-wrf-450/



  • JDLowrance

Posted December 08, 2013 - 04:50 PM

#3

They should be spec'd at .46 and 5.5 respectively however the spring rates the OEMS use seen to be all over the map. What do you weigh less gear?



  • Navaho6

Posted December 08, 2013 - 05:58 PM

#4

167 lbs



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted December 08, 2013 - 06:33 PM

#5

Yamaha sells (4) different springs for front and rear.

I would imagine, like Honda, you sometimes get the 'wrong' spring(s) on your bike compared to what they say is the 'standard' spring.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted December 08, 2013 - 07:43 PM

#6

I sent RaceTech an email with the rates from the manual. They said they were going to correct the website, but I guess they haven't yet.

The rates in the manual are nominally correct.

Having said that, I put 0.51s in the forks on my 2012 and it made a huge difference. I also increased the oil level too though.

If you weigh 167 without gear, the stock springs should be good or a little on the stiff side, depending on how aggressive you ride.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, December 08, 2013 - 07:45 PM.


  • Navaho6

Posted December 09, 2013 - 06:34 AM

#7

Looks like the Shop Manual is right - .46 kg fork springs and 5.5 shock spring (a tad too soft probably).  Here's some good information on the forks from DaveJ (http://www.smartperf...m/PRODUCTS.html).  Forks springs from older WR's do not work in the '12 BUT the shock springs are interchangeable. 

 

http://www.southbayr...threads/122279/

 

I have not found a spring rate calculator yet.  Race Tech site is useless.  No information given on the rate calculator.   Will PM DaveJ for information.

 

Also found some interesting information in this article - http://www.nxtbook.c....php?startid=73

 

 

They claim that the fork valving and springs are very soft and the oil height is high (set up for trail-friendly ride).   I had a chance to ride the bike for the first time yesterday in sloppy conditions.  My only complaints are that the forks feel a little harsh on the small stuff.  Works great on the faster whoops but feels a little undersprung for me (167 lbs w/o gear).  Need to give it time to break in first and get more seat time.


Edited by Navaho6, December 09, 2013 - 06:35 AM.


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  • beernutt

Posted December 09, 2013 - 08:49 AM

#8

I agree about the harsh fork feel. My 2006 was way better at technical/singletrack stuff (after putting in YZ springs front and rear). The 2012-2013s seem to be too stiff in the front no matter where the clickers are set and too soft in the rear. Mind you, I'm 190ish + gear and 6'2" so I'm farther back on the seat than shorter dudes making matters worse. No matter how hard I hammer the front I can't use the last 2" of fork travel. I'm going to try lowering the oil height in the fork and putting in a stiffer rear spring. Right now it feels unbalanced.

 

Alan



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted December 09, 2013 - 12:27 PM

#9

I'm 220 w/o gear. I thought the fork was harsh too. I think its undersprung. I put 0.51s in and increased the fork oil volume to 330 ccs. I think I dropped the compression damping a bit too. Made a world of difference. Much plusher and way more progressive.

The less work the fork springs do, the more work the damping has to do. If you want plush, run stiffer springs and turn down the damping. Excessive damping is what makes forks harsh. If you over spring it, the front end will feel stiff, but not harsh.

  • Navaho6

Posted December 10, 2013 - 03:53 PM

#10

Well I don't know that I should go stiffer. Called Factory Connection and oem springs are right for my weight. Will probably revalve later.

  • Ride-n-Hard

Posted December 10, 2013 - 05:55 PM

#11

Funny but the dec 13 dirt riders long haul update on the 13 wr set the sag at 100-105. They insist that the front tire traction is skidish at best. I have mine about 102 and haven't noticed that. All though I haven't climbed steep hills yet I haven't noticed it. I did raise the forks about 5mm and the ride seems to have got better, although not a lot of time on it yet since.

  • Navaho6

Posted December 11, 2013 - 10:40 AM

#12

The front traction problem is partly caused by the stiff sidewall of the MX-51 front tire.  I replaced it with a Pirelli Scorpion XC Mid Soft (XCMS) which has more flex and is lighter.  Going to do the same with the rear wheel. 

I rode the bike for the first time (briefly) last weekend in muddy conditions (with the oem tires) and the front felt ok even in muddy corners.  I have the forks set flush and 98mm race sag.  Should have decent conditions this weekend where I can really put it to the test.



  • beernutt

Posted December 11, 2013 - 12:30 PM

#13

I think I found most of the 'harsh fork, won't bottom out no matter how hard I try' problem. While the bike was under warranty I had the local Yamaha shop replace the leaky fork seals. I usually do this myself, but hey - it was free.

 

Checked the fork oil quantity in the outer tubes - 450cc.

The manual says the range is 295-370cc with 328 as a baseline.

 

I'm bringing it back to 330cc, maybe now I get to use all the suspension travel that comes with the bike.

 

Alan


Edited by beernutt, December 11, 2013 - 12:37 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted December 12, 2013 - 12:24 AM

#14

Checked the fork oil quantity in the outer tubes - 450cc.


That would definitely make them stiff and harsh !




 
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