87 xr600 takes 2 hours to start

[Mudpup]

I have an 87 xr600. Got it about a month ago, it's my first bike. In the morning it starts up pretty easy, after a few kicks. After I ride and kill it, if I leave it off for more than a few minutes, it won't start up again. I've had to wait and mess with it for hours, but it eventually does start up again.

Anybody have theories? I'd appreciate it

[Go Big Red]

valves adjustmented?  They may be a little tight.

 

Is your choke off after you start it?  sounds obvious, but if this is your first bike there may be a learning curve on some things.  I have been reminded by my 8 year old son about my choke being on before, so it happens.

 

when was the last time you cleaned the carb.  Although dirty jets typically make it hard to start cold, the bowl may have sediment in it that is causing some issues.

 

Fuel screw.  could be too lean to start or it could be flooding it out a bit.

[Mudpup]

I've cleaned out the carb and looked through the jets, they seem to be fine. My choke is off, I end up going through everything over the 2 hours Im messing with it.

What's weird is that my effort has nothing to do with it. Whether I don't touch it or I work at it, it still takes the same amount of time.

I have a feeling it's something simple that Im just looking over or don't understand

[bork]

I would check the plug, when not starting. wet or dry? , & then you know which way to pursue. Also check for strong spark, cold & then hot..  same?

[jjktmrider]

So your saying it'll start up "normally" when the motor is completely cold, but if warm at all it starts hard?  If that's the case, try giving it just a tad throttle when kicking, maybe 1/8. I have an XT that when warm I have to restart in less than 2-3min or wait 20-30 min(outside temp dependent), My XL seldom does that but occasionally it has. I just sit down and save my energy. I had put an aluminum plate to sheield engine heat from the carbs and it helped quite a bit.

[Mudpup]

It started first.or second kick in the morning when I first got it. Now it's more of a 5 or 10 minute process. In fact when I first got it, it only took about 30 minutes to get started if I went to start it again, now it takes closer to 2 hours. So the problem has progressed since I've been riding.

So you're saying give it throttle when I kick? With the gas on?

[jjktmrider]

That's what I would try, with the fuel on , ignition on. It does sound like there is something else going on though. New plug for starters, clean carbs and new or cleaned air filter.

As Bork said, after kicking 6-8 times, take the spark plug out and see what it looks like, Is it dry or wet? Then you'll know if it is getting fuel or not and can then know what area to look at next.

Edited November 22, 2013 by jjktmrider

[mikeames]

Not sure if you know this and no one's brought it up but there's a great technic for kicking over these bikes that nearly always works.

You very slowly kick it till you feel top dead center (most compression) then just a tad further there's another bump. From there you bring your foot back up to the top and kick it once hard. If it doesn't start then repeat the same process.

If it doesn't start after a few of the above then pull the decompression lever, give it wide open throttle and kick it over about 6-10 times fast then repeat the process above.

Kicking the hell out of these things really just doesn't work.

Someone earlier mentioned valves and that's a good thing to check but remember that after you set the valves you also need to adjust both the manual and kick start decompression systems.

Hope that helps.

[Jdrost72]

My crf did that it was the valves they were tight

[Carter Pewterschmidt]

It's probably fueling.  Get it warmed up, let it idle, then lean out the fuel screw until the RPMs just rise.  If that's not it search elsewhere.  Try a compression test.  That will tell you if decomp mech or valves are out of adjustment.

[ScottRNelson]

Try shutting off the fuel before shutting off the bike.  I mean, turn the petcock to off and ride about two blocks until it starts to be starved for fuel, then leave the fuel off until you're ready to start the bike again.  When you want to start it, turn the fuel on, then immediately start the thing.

 

That has helped on my 2001 XR650L and a DR350S that I used to own as well.

 

Some bikes, when they're hot, heat things up around the carburetor resulting in a very rich mixture ending up in the intake.  That makes them hard to start when hot.

 

It costs nothing to try this, and if it doesn't help after a few times trying it, you don't need to try it again.  But it has made a difference for my bike when hot.

[dingolong]

When my bike is cold I don't use any throttle at all to start or choke either. When it's warmed up it's a little more tempermental to start but I think I just try to kick after tdc and give it a little throttle. Closing the fuel petcock when trying to start will let you know if it's flooding or starving also. If you close the petcock and it starts easier maybe check your floats? Maybe your air cleaner is dirty or clogged? If it doesn't help maybe your floats are set low? Fuel mixture screw adjustment? I played with mine for a loooong time and ended up with 2 turns out. I have a bunch of motor mods on mine so I can't really relate specifications on adjustments.

[Horri]

Yep,,well it may also have a poked Stator which exhibits it's problem more when warm or hot..I'd be testing it or getting a replacement.,,either that or possibly go up one size on the pilot and test that first.

 

Have you cleaned the tiny holes on the side of the pilot with a strand from a wire brush..Both sides of it have them on it clean them all out.

Pilots in the left hand carb,,no pilot in the right..

Edited November 25, 2013 by Horri

[Horri]

Wanna remove the carbs easily,,follow this..I still see people complaining about how hard they are to remove over at ADV,,Plainly they never look in here..

 

Here is my gospel on how to remove the carbs/carb on any XL/XR/XLR/XRR be they single or dual carb,,I've done it a good fifty times..It is the easiest and works..

(1) Tank/seat/Sidecovers need to come off..
(2) All the crappy anti smog stuff needs to be removed from near or around
the carbs,,ie the plastic carbon thingamejig and any associated hoses including the crank breather hoses
(3) Undo and remove both airbox hose clamps
(4) Loosen off the carb to intake manifold hose clamps.
(5) Walk around to the right hand side of the bike
(6) Grab the front carb side of the plastic/rubber nozzle that runs to the aircleaner
in your hand.
Pull it back towards you or the rear of the bike and rest it's front part against the frame
downtube just back from it a bit.
(7) Walk round to the left hand side..do the same with that airbox nozzle resting it
behind the other frame downtube just back a bit from the carbs.
(8) Pull the carbs out of the front intake manifold.
(9) Remove carbs to the right,,cables can stay on on twin carb bikes..singles they need to come off..choke cable may also need to come off on the twins.

It will take a bit of manipulation to get them out that side..I cannot explain that..like a rubics cube it is,,Persist and they'll come out,,Too hard,,Remove the cables at the carb connection and go out to the left..

Don't leave those airbox hoses behind the frame downtubes for to long or they become a bit deformed.
Once the carbs are out pull them from behind the downtubes and allow them to rest as normal till the carbs are ready to go back on.
Pull them back again to get the carbs back on..

Adjust the above to suit either the dual or single carb bikes.
While removing the head to carb manifold is maybe the stipulated method in the manual it can be a real pain to get off if you don't have the correct spanner,,You can spend more time dicking around with those bolts than the above way takes . My advice is if you need to do the job a bit and want to use the head to carb manifold removal way ,,replace the bolts with allen heads,,easier to get at..Whatever way you go the Seat/Tank/Sidecovers need to come off,,no getting away from that..The above gets away from you needing to use the spanner method on the manifold,,that is all....

Jets in the left carb are Main and Pilot..Right carb only has a main in it..

Good luck.

Edited November 25, 2013 by Horri

[Snoman002]

^ holy cow! That's a pain. I'm thankful my 08 isn't as bad as that. And very glad the jet can be done without pulling the carb at all.

[jjktmrider]

You should do some throttle body work on an LTR , makes these bikes look like a cakewalk. Takes 2 hours just to be able to see the throttle body, then you can start removing it. A little bit softer airbox boots would help quite a bit though on these.

 

None of my bikes are "easy", KLR or the XT's all have there issues with carb removal.

Edited November 26, 2013 by jjktmrider

[Horri]

^ holy cow! That's a pain. I'm thankful my 08 isn't as bad as that. And very glad the jet can be done without pulling the carb at all.

 

It may appear difficult..In actual fact the entire job takes 10 minutes from go to whoa..I cover things for the lowest common denominator and still over at ADV they can't figure it out..I should do a vid of the job ,,maybe that'd be of some help to the still lost. They can't seem to comprehend the pulling back of the rubber/plastic boots so the front of them rests behind the nearby frame downtubes..I dunno..it's pretty obvious when you look at the carb and airbox where those are..

 

Edited November 26, 2013 by Horri

[Carter Pewterschmidt]

It may appear difficult..In actual fact the entire job takes 10 minutes from go to whoa..I cover things for the lowest common denominator and still over at ADV they can't figure it out..I should do a vid of the job ,,maybe that'd be of some help to the still lost. They can't seem to comprehend the pulling back of the rubber/plastic boots so the front of them rests behind the nearby frame downtubes..I dunno..it's pretty obvious when you look at the carb and airbox where those are..

 

Still doesn't mean the job is fun, but yeah, just pull airbox back and remove intake spacer, carbs come out.  I did a full rebuild job on mine last time out and replaced all the hardware with allen head cap screws, and added quick change float bowls.  The allen head screws are great if you have to adjust the needle, with a ball head t handle you can get at all the screws with the carb in place.

[Horri]

Still doesn't mean the job is fun, but yeah, just pull airbox back and remove intake spacer, carbs come out.  I did a full rebuild job on mine last time out and replaced all the hardware with allen head cap screws, and added quick change float bowls.  The allen head screws are great if you have to adjust the needle, with a ball head t handle you can get at all the screws with the carb in place.

Er,,No...That is not the easiest way to remove the carbs..Did you not read what I said..You do not pull the actual airbox back,,that'd mean you need to undo the airbox mounting bolts..You pull the rubber/plastic airbox nozzle or nozzles back and rest the front part that attaches to the carb behind the frame downtubes that are just back a bit from the nozzles..It's as simple as that. Absolutely no need to remove the intake manifold or any part of it..   Disinformation is the job of the CIA and FBI..

Edited November 26, 2013 by Horri

[jjktmrider]

 Disinformation is the job of the CIA and FBI..

 

And Obama !!