These forks!?! 2014 YZ450...

Yamaha YZ450F 2014

87 replies to this topic
  • swaldrop

Posted November 17, 2013 - 03:34 PM

#21

So I ended up raising the forks up to the first line, setting clickers to c14 r7 and it was still extremely harsh and now it felt like the rear end was unloading a bit abruptly on some of the larger jumps.

Once back at the truck I decided I would check sag again. I had it at 110mm before so I thought I would add a little more to see if that helped.

Checked it and it was at 126mm! WTH?

I had been playing with sag the first few days I had the bike but I have no idea how it got screwed up so bad.

Anyway, I cranked it down to 114 and went out again, not expecting much. To my surprise it felt great. Everything seemed just work and I was immediately 100% more comfortable. The forks still feel a little stiff, but they actually work, where they didn't seem to work well at all before. I can deal with these.

I am always amazed at how small changes can make such big differences. Glad to have found a good base to work from and glad I didn't take for granted what I assumed the sag to be. Thanks for all the input. Hopefully this helps someone else out there.

  • MXKyle

Posted November 18, 2013 - 05:00 AM

#22


I am always amazed at how small changes can make such big differences.

 

You got that right!  And on this bike it seems even more so. 

 

I totally forgot how much the sag would effect the handling and didn't list that in my setup.  Since I grew up riding lots of rolling sand whoops I like my bikes rear suspension a little stiffer than some.  I set my shock up at 105mm on this bike.  That will certainly make it turn different than the 114 you set yours at.  If you like more rear sag you may want to move the forks a little farther up in the clamps to compensate.

 

KT



  • delmas

Posted November 19, 2013 - 05:18 PM

#23

The 2014 forks have had some changes  made  from   the 2010 -2013.

inner chamber spring rate  is stiffer the mid valve comp. has been stiffened ,the  midvalve piston now has a bleed hole and the base valve is softer.

I put my 2010 forks on and it rides like a dream.



  • rdefonce

Posted November 20, 2013 - 09:18 AM

#24

So I ended up raising the forks up to the first line, setting clickers to c14 r7 and it was still extremely harsh and now it felt like the rear end was unloading a bit abruptly on some of the larger jumps.

Once back at the truck I decided I would check sag again. I had it at 110mm before so I thought I would add a little more to see if that helped.

Checked it and it was at 126mm! WTH?

I had been playing with sag the first few days I had the bike but I have no idea how it got screwed up so bad.

Anyway, I cranked it down to 114 and went out again, not expecting much. To my surprise it felt great. Everything seemed just work and I was immediately 100% more comfortable. The forks still feel a little stiff, but they actually work, where they didn't seem to work well at all before. I can deal with these.

I am always amazed at how small changes can make such big differences. Glad to have found a good base to work from and glad I didn't take for granted what I assumed the sag to be. Thanks for all the input. Hopefully this helps someone else out there.

More break-in time may have helped your situation, besides what you changed.

About the squeak, I have a 200 KTM that fork-squeaks sometimes; I believe it's the seals squeaking on my bike anyway.

A thin film of fork oil where the seal meets the tube helped quiet it some. (It mainly happened when my seals were new, and went away after some time.)



  • swaldrop

Posted November 20, 2013 - 09:29 AM

#25

The 2014 forks have had some changes  made  from   the 2010 -2013.

inner chamber spring rate  is stiffer the mid valve comp. has been stiffened ,the  midvalve piston now has a bleed hole and the base valve is softer.

I put my 2010 forks on and it rides like a dream.

 

I wish I had my 2011 forks still as I would have done the same, if only to prove I'm not crazy. I am sure I will continue to get comfortable with these, but I do wonder at times why things change just to change. They were so good before. I guess I should be glad they didn't move to the air fork. That would have been a bummer for sure.



  • motoxjeff

Posted November 22, 2013 - 07:03 AM

#26

Ok so I have the handling under control (for me at least). 110 sag, and moved the forks up in the triple clamps.... Really sits in the corners now.... Nice!

  • rk8950

Posted November 22, 2013 - 09:41 AM

#27

Ok so I have the handling under control (for me at least). 110 sag, and moved the forks up in the triple clamps.... Really sits in the corners now.... Nice!

Did you get the "push" to go away?



  • motoxjeff

Posted November 22, 2013 - 01:04 PM

#28

Did you get the "push" to go away?


Can't tell if your being sarcastic or not?


  • rk8950

Posted November 22, 2013 - 01:29 PM

#29

Can't tell if your being sarcastic or not?

I am serious. I am gathering info cause I wanna get one here soon. I have a friend who got to ride one and said the same thing that the front had a push to it, and he is a very expericenced rider. He also said he felt it was something he could tune out of it. I thought the last you posted you were getting some new clamps to try? I was hoping by you saying that it handles better means the "push" is gone.



  • grayracer513

Posted November 22, 2013 - 02:16 PM

#30

It could be that he never thought it had a tendency to understeer (push the front).  First, YZ's have been guilty of that at one level or the other for a very long time, and experienced Yamaha riders have learned that the bike likes the rider well forward while turning in.  The '10 improved on the matter noticeably, and the '14 even more so, but even so, the machine depends a great deal on rider input to behave itself. 

 

Another matter is that the move toward greater and greater mass centralization that began with the '06 model has created a bike that is surprisingly sensitive to even small changes in setup.  Just a small amount of change in sag, spring rate, or damping makes an unusually big difference, especially in the new bikes. 

 

One last thing: ALL modern MX bikes push.  Some more than others, but they all will if you ride them the wrong way.  That's simply because of the shallow steering head angles made necessary by the requirements of running at speed over ridiculously rough ground.  Slamming through 6" holes and high precision steering each demand a completely different set of geometry numbers.  Look at any well set up flat tracker or sport bike designed for maximum turning ability and you'll see head angles in the 24 degree range, not the 27ish numbers used on an MX bike.  Makes a huge difference.

 

Overall, you be happier with a bike that you ride and evaluate than taking the word of someone else, even me (or especially me, if you want).  It pays to remember, too, that while you can adjust the machine to the rider to a great extent, the rider invariably has to adjust himself to the machine.



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  • delmas

Posted November 22, 2013 - 07:24 PM

#31

I wish I had my 2011 forks still as I would have done the same, if only to prove I'm not crazy. I am sure I will continue to get comfortable with these, but I do wonder at times why things change just to change. They were so good before. I guess I should be glad they didn't move to the air fork. That would have been a bummer for sure.

you can  turn your forks into the 10 -13 forks with parts from suspension direct.



  • swaldrop

Posted November 22, 2013 - 07:29 PM

#32

you can  turn your forks into the 10 -13 forks with parts from suspension direct.

 

What would the parts list look like? I wouldn't rule out a mod like that.



  • swaldrop

Posted November 22, 2013 - 07:44 PM

#33

Another matter is that the move toward greater and greater mass centralization that began with the '06 model has created a bike that is surprisingly sensitive to even small changes in setup.  Just a small amount of change in sag, spring rate, or damping makes an unusually big difference, especially in the new bikes. 

 

Believe it. I question myself constantly with these bikes, thinking that I am just a head case with my reaction to slight changes. When I installed the Dr D engine relocation mod on my '11, I did so believing I would realize little to no benefit. I was wrong. 3mm made a big difference and allowed me to run a more normal sag setting that totally changed the way the bike handled.

 

Sag on this new bike is just as important (if not more so) to the way the bike handles. If this bike is not balanced for your weight, you're gonna be searching for a setting that doesn't exist.



  • galligar

Posted November 23, 2013 - 04:43 PM

#34

I've ridden my buddies 14 I thought the fork & shock were the best of crop (6-14)yz450s. I've owned 7,8,10 all revalved,7&8 enzo,10 fc the 10 was the best until I rode the 14 stock with upgraded springs for rider weight. I'm 225 with gear,my 13 Honda's better then all of them,but lighter riders seem to hate the air fork.The 14 fork is stiff but that's what it needed for me. It did feel harsh until it broke in 4-6 hrs approx.after that really good. Give your self some time,their good,really good

Edited by galligar, November 23, 2013 - 07:20 PM.


  • delmas

Posted November 24, 2013 - 07:40 AM

#35

What would the parts list look like? I wouldn't rule out a mod like that.

here 

http://www.suspensio...MM-Height-15MM/

 

http://www.suspensio...-10-CRF450R-ea/

http://www.suspensio...ston-Holder-ea/



  • delmas

Posted November 24, 2013 - 07:44 AM

#36

What would the parts list look like? I wouldn't rule out a mod like that.

they also sell the 2010 cartridge rod complete but it is a little  longer than the 2014 rod.When you install the 2010 piston add some rebound and you will love it



  • Itsbroken

Posted November 25, 2013 - 11:50 AM

#37

  I finally got around to servicing my forks yesterday on the '14 yz 450. Overall I have been really happy with the bike except for a couple little things.  The "chirping" fork has always annoyed me and the harshness on acceleration / braking bumps.  

 

   Factory calls for 335 cc  in the o.c.,  with a working range from 300 to 355. On my bike the right had 300 cc and the left had 260.  There have not been any seal leakage and I didn't spill a drop while dumping them out.  I went back with 335 cc and man are these forks stiff now. Good news is the chirp appears to be gone. 

  So maybe if your having problems dialing these things in it would be worth it to service them even though the bike is new.  I wont know how I like them at this oil level till I can get to the real track but on my little practice area the seem really firm...FIRM. 



  • Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens

Posted November 26, 2013 - 06:03 PM

#38

The 2014 forks have had some changes  made  from   the 2010 -2013.

inner chamber spring rate  is stiffer the mid valve comp. has been stiffened ,the  midvalve piston now has a bleed hole and the base valve is softer.

I put my 2010 forks on and it rides like a dream.

just the forks?  how about the wheel from the 2010?



  • delmas

Posted November 27, 2013 - 04:56 PM

#39

just the forks?  how about the wheel from the 2010?

yes you need the wheel as well   2008 - 20013 will fit



  • delmas

Posted November 27, 2013 - 05:30 PM

#40

just the forks?  how about the wheel from the 2010?

you need the axel also







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