Jump to content

Engine relocation kit yz450


Recommended Posts

I know this has Ben touched on before but I have my bike striped down for the winter and want too hear some people view. Is it a valid upgrade or is moving the engine up a couple millimeters Just spliting hairs that the average joe will never notice it. I have read a couple old threads on this but it seemed be just talking crap back and fourth with no actual useful info or facts too back up there position. I do like my 2012 yz and plan too keep it a while. Thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replay. I live in ny. Just started racing. Starts out kind of normal loose dirt i would say soft too med starts too get a little packed down by the end of the day. I am willing too admit I'm sure my riding skill is 99 percent too blame( not completely new too dirt bikes just racing them)but cornering is where I need help. Seem too push a little. I gonna experiment with a different bend of handle bars and switch out the mx51 front for some thing else wondering if the relocation kit would help a little too. Thanks for the input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure your race sags correct and raise the forks to 5 or 8 mm(can't remember which) if you do. Made a huge difference for me and gave me a ton of confidence in the front end. If you can afford to replace tires every couple of ride the mx31 offers excellent traction in my experience but knobs break of real fast

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For hardpack. I would recommend the pirrelis mid/hard 554. I discovered this tyres one momth ago. IMO much better than MX51 in same conditions.

Speaking of the KIT no experience. I ride with the forks flush with the clamp (Manual amd MXA recommendations). And I always try to follow gary semics tips. It is what has really helped with cornering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The track I go too only gets run on about 1 day a month so there actually grass on it for the first couple races. I personally would classify it as soft and maybe medium by the end of the day with some hard pack areas. If I can trade some tire wear for a more grabby front tire I would gladly do that especially since I am not able too ride nearly as much as some people so the tire would last a while for me. I'll keep experimenting when money permits thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It certainly makes the front end more planted. If all I rode was loamy/sand tracks I wouldn't install it, but for hard pack/intermediate soil it makes a big difference.

Agree with this, i used my '11 for woods and MX so no relocation for me . My tip - front tyre choice is critical on this bike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I correct too think if the bike pushes a little bit or doesn't corner sharp enough that going too a softer terrain tire is probly the way too go. I should add I'm only 165 so I'm probly on the light side for the suspension and some one has pointed out too me that might be contributing too the bike pushing and standing up in corners because the forks don't ride low enough in the stroke when entering the corner how ever I don't have the money too send my suspension out. So I'm trying too address the issues( even if there just in my head). Buy going at some other way. Bike is bone stock exect for fly wheel weight and a set of windam bend bars that I'm gonna try out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I correct too think if the bike pushes a little bit or doesn't corner sharp enough that going too a softer terrain tire is probly the way too go.

 

No.  "Hard" and "soft" as used to describe dirt bike tires are terms that refer to the type of soil the bike is to be run in, not to the rubber of the tire.  Tires for soft surfaces will have taller and thinner knobs spaced farther apart to fork into the soil.  "Hard" tires have fatter blocks closer together, often with "cups" dug into the outermost rows of knobs, and the knobs will be shorter so as not to roll and squirm under hard cornering on really hard stuff.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for the relocation kit, it works. But, since you said you are 165 lbs, money would be better spent just respringing the bike for your weight. I think it comes with a 5.8nm in rear and  48 fronts. I dont think you will get proper free sag after setting up race sag. Factory connection can get you where you need to be for a couple hundred which is a little more than the relocate kit, but will be way better for you. I have an 11 with all the goodies and nothing helped more than the proper springs.

Having said that i bought a 2014 and its night and day dif. The smoother motor along with all the other changes makes the bike way more predictable and confidence instilling. needless to say, the 11 is for sale with 60 hours on it

Hope this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Factory connection quoted meat around700 after shipping. That's a little more than I can spend just for the suspension right know. They actually have my forks at the moment and are just changing the oil and seals and replacing a fork cap I stripped and that's gonna be about 300. Thanks for the info though. You might laugh at this but I'm just gonna try and gain 10 pounds over the winter. Lol. Maybe it will help maybe it won't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...