GYTR tuner can't communicate with the ECU ?


53 replies to this topic
  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 12, 2013 - 08:09 AM

#41

It does NOT work. As soon as one shuts off the bike the programmer dies.

There must be a load on the WRs that is not present on the YZs. I'll try NiMHs next.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, October 12, 2013 - 08:10 AM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 13, 2013 - 10:24 PM

#42

I installed fully charged Panasonic 2050 maHr NiMH batteries in my GYTR tuner. When I connect it to my bike and try to turn it on, I can hear the fuel pump clicking but the programmer itself will not turn on.

I removed the lighting resistor. It made no difference.

As far as I know the YZ and the WR use the same fuel pump and fuel system, except that the WR has a fuel level sender.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, October 13, 2013 - 10:28 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 15, 2013 - 03:19 AM

#43

What I don't understand is why the diode was placed between the programmer and the ECM and not the whole bike and the ECM ?

Right now the diode prevents the programmer from powering up the entire bike, including the ECM.

If they moved the diode earlier in the circuit, it would prevent the programmer from powering up the rest of the bike, but allow it to power the ECM. However, then the ECM voltage would be dropped by the diode forward voltage, about 0.6 volts.

I still don't know how the programmer is able to power the YZ and yet not the WR. I suspect the YZ ECM doesn't enable the fuel pump when the programmer is plugged in ?

There are several potential solutions. 1) Power the bike with a battery when programming it. 2) Try moving the diode. 3) Disconnect the fuel pump when programming. #1 and 3 are a PITA. #2 would be the simplest if it doesn't impair the starting and operation of the bike.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, October 15, 2013 - 03:21 AM.


  • ffmdq450

Posted October 15, 2013 - 05:06 PM

#44

Is the ECU the stock model??



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 15, 2013 - 05:50 PM

#45

Its the competition ECU.

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 16, 2013 - 02:56 AM

#46

It appears that the ECU on the YZs is programmed to not turn on the fuel pump when programming is under way.

You can read about it here.
http://www.thumperta...tion-on-yz450s/

  • vlxjim

Posted October 16, 2013 - 11:46 AM

#47

I've come to the conclusion that the WR ECU requires 12 volts to allow the programmer to communicate with it. I would call Yamaha of America and ask them the question, this WR 450 was designed to be able to remove the battery and starter how my supposed to program it? If I were you I would just carry around a little 12 V gell cell or 11.1 V RC plane battery pack and put a plug in that you can plug it in when you need to program.



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  • vlxjim

Posted October 16, 2013 - 11:53 AM

#48

Here is a good small one to try. A 11.1 lipo will charge up to 12.6 - 12.8 volts at full . And at 20C you can pull 148 amps which is way more than you need.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...r-/281151299327

 

Buy this and cut the ends off and get one for a charger.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item3cd623614f

 

Or make your own.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=item58a4c2b18b


Edited by vlxjim, October 16, 2013 - 11:59 AM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 16, 2013 - 12:00 PM

#49

I'd rather move the diode or mount a switch that shuts off the fuel pump than carry a battery.

I'll test it first by disconnecting the fuel pump.

How does one call Yamaha USA ?

  • vlxjim

Posted October 16, 2013 - 12:10 PM

#50

Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA 
6555 Katella Avenue
Cypress, CA 90630

Customer Relations
(800) 962-7926



  • vlxjim

Posted October 16, 2013 - 12:11 PM

#51

Give that a try but I'm sure that the ECU needs 12V to boot up first.



  • vlxjim

Posted October 16, 2013 - 12:17 PM

#52

BTW that battery Is tiny and the fuel pump only primes for a few seconds. So you won't need that much power. And I'm sure that once you get it dialed in you won't need to mess with it that much. Its not like a carbed bike that you need to adjust for different altitudes or temperatures. The ECU will make those adjustments on the fly.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 17, 2013 - 04:53 AM

#53

BTW that battery Is tiny and the fuel pump only primes for a few seconds. So you won't need that much power.


I've tried running the bike, connecting the scan tool and then shutting the bike off. The WR fuel pump wants to run after the bike is shut off. So its taking more than just a little bit of power, at least when the programmer is connected. I still think a diode or a switch would be better.

And I'm sure that once you get it dialed in you won't need to mess with it that much. Its not like a carbed bike that you need to adjust for different altitudes or temperatures. The ECU will make those adjustments on the fly.

Agreed and yet it would be nice to make changes for sure at the trail head and probably on the trail for different conditions.

  • vlxjim

Posted October 17, 2013 - 10:21 AM

#54

I've tried running the bike, connecting the scan tool and then shutting the bike off. The WR fuel pump wants to run after the bike is shut off. So its taking more than just a little bit of power, at least when the programmer is connected. I still think a diode or a switch would be better.

Agreed and yet it would be nice to make changes for sure at the trail head and probably on the trail for different conditions.

Thats not what I'm talking about. If you had a small battery that you would plug in when you need to hookup and program, the fuel pump only primes for a few seconds. It then waits for the engine to startup. At least that how my WR works. Your not going to start the bike just hookup the battery then turn on the programer. If you still have the stock battery run some wire from it to the bike and try it out.






 
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