How do I get YZ suspension travel on my WR ?


61 replies to this topic
  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 22, 2013 - 02:22 PM

#21

You have to dismantle the fork to remove the springs.


I know that. But can I leave the damper together and just put it back in or do I have to dismantle the damper as well ?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted September 22, 2013 - 03:52 PM

#22

https://www.youtube....ube.7PPNP8KZIdU



  • JDLowrance

Posted September 22, 2013 - 04:11 PM

#23

You are not going to get the additional 1/2 inch of travel the YZ has without spending a shit-load of money.....it's not worth it. Put the springs in your bike and it'll be fine.

 

You do not have to disassemble the damper cartridge. Your bike came with a manual, I'd suggest taking a look as it tels you how to disassemble every part on your bike.


Edited by JDLowrance, September 22, 2013 - 04:13 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 22, 2013 - 05:45 PM

#24

You do not have to disassemble the damper cartridge. Your bike came with a manual, I'd suggest taking a look as it tels you how to disassemble every part on your bike.


It shows the whole sequence including rebuilding the damper assembly. However, it doesn't say if you have to re bleed or rebuild the damper if you pull it out.

  • JDLowrance

Posted September 22, 2013 - 06:02 PM

#25

You do not. As long as you do not take the inner cap off the cartridge assembly there will be no need to bleed or rebuild.

 

Loosen the top outter fork cap, drain oil, remove lower bolt and whole assembly slides out, replace spring, re-assemble in the reverse order. Add 5wt fork oil (I would recommend adding an additional 10ml of fork oil to help prevent bottoming).

 

It's real easy with basic mechnical apptitude.


Edited by JDLowrance, September 22, 2013 - 06:04 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 22, 2013 - 07:23 PM

#26

Thanks for that.

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 30, 2013 - 08:00 AM

#27

I contacted Race Tech about bike weight versus rider weight. According to them, removing 20 pounds from the bike is equivalent to removing 20 pounds from the rider. Same difference.

They agree that its not worth trying to get YZ travel from WR forks. They recommend revalving instead.

I'm 220lbs and losing weight. With the 25 pound bike loss, that is like a 195 pound rider. I carry more stuff than most riders. I think I'm going to get 0.52 Kg/mm in the forks and 6.0 Kg/mm for the shock. I'm afraid that the shock will be too light, but I'm afraid to go higher. Coach me !

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 30, 2013 - 08:33 AM.


  • JDLowrance

Posted September 30, 2013 - 09:31 AM

#28

0.52 might be a little too much but easily rectified if it is. You say you are rapidly losing weight, you can get some 0.48s down the road if needed and the 0.48/0.52 = 0.50).

 

Of course RaceTeck is going to try and talk you into valving (as with any suspension shop it's their bread and butter)...In my opinion it's not needed on this bike as the valving specs are really good and the adjusters give plenty of usable range.

 

John



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 30, 2013 - 10:39 AM

#29

0.52 might be a little too much but easily rectified if it is. You say you are rapidly losing weight, you can get some 0.48s down the road if needed and the 0.48/0.52 = 0.50).

Stock is 0.460. I don't feel that 0.48 is enough of a difference on paper to warrant a difference. So that leaves 0.5 and 0.52. When I ride the bike I feel as though the front is very soft, so I'm leaning towards the 0.52.
 

In my opinion it's not needed on this bike as the valving specs are really good and the adjusters give plenty of usable range.

I'll get back to you on that once I get it sprung correctly and I've put the clickers through their range of adjustment.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 30, 2013 - 10:43 AM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted September 30, 2013 - 01:34 PM

#30

0.52 might be a little too much but easily rectified if it is. You say you are rapidly losing weight, you can get some 0.48s down the road if needed and the 0.48/0.52 = 0.50).

 

Of course RaceTeck is going to try and talk you into valving (as with any suspension shop it's their bread and butter)...In my opinion it's not needed on this bike as the valving specs are really good and the adjusters give plenty of usable range.

 

John

When you change (stiffen) the springs, the rebound will be way off. It won't be adjusting in the right part of the resistance curve, and will either be too spiky or too little rebound.

 

The compression will be not as bad, and will get you by, depending on how aggressively you ride.

 

 

I'd go .50 / 6.0 .



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  • JDLowrance

Posted September 30, 2013 - 02:28 PM

#31

If you weigh 220 the stock springs are way to soft for you.

 

I'd recommend minimum 0.48kg/mm up front with stock tank and no excessive gear (tool bag, camel back, etc.) or 0.50kg/mm with aformentioned extras and 5.8 / 6.0 kg/mm for the rear with same provisions.

 

Contrary to popular belief, stiffer springs do not make for stiffer suspension. You are riding too far down in the stroke (which is harsher than upper 1/3 of stroke). The stiffer springs will get you up in the stroke and provide a plusher ride and more suspension travel for bigger hits.

 

I weigh 255 without gear, run OS tank, tool belt, etc and run 0.54kg/mm up front and 6.7kg/mm in the rear. Bike is plush and soaks up the big hits and jump landings. Err on the heavier side.

 

Funny....I thought I mentioned that about 20 posts ago.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 13, 2013 - 10:40 PM

#32

I swapped the fork springs out in my bike for 5.0 Kg/mm springs. Stock on the 2012 is 4.6 Kg/mm.

I increased the oil level from stock (295 cc) to 325 cc + whatever didn't drain out. Max is 370cc.

I'm looking for good compliance on roots and rocks when woods riding. I'm hoping to run a minimal amount of compression damping and have the spring and air compression prevent the fork from bottoming. I suspect that I am going to need to tune the mid valve to get what I want, but this is a first step.

The other thing I'm looking to eliminate is excessive dive on steep downhills. The stock fork felt like mush to me. I'm hoping the stronger spring and increased oil level will firm things up.

I haven't resprung the rear shock. I'll do it next. I have a 6.0 Kg/mm spring for it.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, October 13, 2013 - 10:40 PM.


  • GuyGraham

Posted October 14, 2013 - 09:55 AM

#33

Stock is 0.460. I don't feel that 0.48 is enough of a difference on paper to warrant a difference.

 

they maybe rated by Yamaha as 0.46 but if you get them measured you'll find they are way under this

 

My 0.46's measured 0.41 :jawdrop:

I put proper 0.46's in and it was a completely different bike

MY local suspension shop said WR's are notorious for the fork springs fir being way softer than the 'advertised' spec

He even told me before he measured them that they would be way under and he was right



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 14, 2013 - 02:03 PM

#34

Just got back from a ride and the springs made a huge difference. Roots and rocks that used to jar the front end are now mostly soaked right up. I can use the front brake on downhills and not have the fork dive to the bottom 1/3. And no more clanking (bottoming) on rough stuff.

I didn't try any air, so I can't say how they will handle that. Couldn't be any worse though. The big question is if they will be harsh on big landing due to the high oil level.

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 14, 2013 - 02:05 PM

#35

they maybe rated by Yamaha as 0.46 but if you get them measured you'll find they are way under this
 
My 0.46's measured 0.41 :jawdrop:


That would explain why there is such a big difference between the 0.5s I put in and the stock springs.

I'm wondering if I damaged the stock springs when I tie my bike down when I transport it.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted October 14, 2013 - 05:24 PM

#36

That would explain why there is such a big difference between the 0.5s I put in and the stock springs.

I'm wondering if I damaged the stock springs when I tie my bike down when I transport it.

 

No. You can't damage seals or springs by using tie straps down your bike.



  • JDLowrance

Posted October 14, 2013 - 05:37 PM

#37

Just got back from a ride and the springs made a huge difference. Roots and rocks that used to jar the front end are now mostly soaked right up. I can use the front brake on downhills and not have the fork dive to the bottom 1/3. And no more clanking (bottoming) on rough stuff.

I didn't try any air, so I can't say how they will handle that. Couldn't be any worse though. The big question is if they will be harsh on big landing due to the high oil level.

 

Wait till you get the shock spring on the bike....it'll handle the rough stuff and turn really well too.

 

What do you mean "didn't try air"? You cannot add air to the forks. If you are running 330ml of fork oil you are in the ball park. I'm running 340ml which is a bit more than stock to deal with bottoming.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 14, 2013 - 06:18 PM

#38

Wait till you get the shock spring on the bike....it'll handle the rough stuff and turn really well too.

I hope you are right.
 

What do you mean "didn't try air"?

LOL. I meant that I didn't do any jumps. I wasn't feeling well when I rode today.

 

If you are running 330ml of fork oil you are in the ball park. I'm running 340ml which is a bit more than stock to deal with bottoming.

Very interesting. I wish I had known that when I resprung them. The manual says to add oil 5cc at a time. I looked at the spring force curve for the forks and thought about how hard they used to bottom and went for it, adding what I did. They are pretty good now.

For the record, I used Race Tech springs.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, October 14, 2013 - 06:19 PM.


  • JDLowrance

Posted October 14, 2013 - 06:34 PM

#39

I hope you are right.
 

Come-on, have I steered you wrong yet...you're riding a fricken chopper right now. I bet it's really nice and stable in the fast stuff though.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 14, 2013 - 07:12 PM

#40

You guys have been great at giving me advice. I really appreciate it.

One thing I noticed today is that I was able to steer the bike where I wanted it to go, like pick a line beside a rut. I couldn't do that before. It wandered too much. I was always in the rut. Now its much more precise.




 
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