The next thing I did was remove the starter. Having no battery, it was useless. Furthermore, my bike didn't start well with the starter and starts really well by kicking.
There are several steps to removing the starter.
1) Remove the ground and power cables. You'll need to put a jumper between the ground under the seat and the frame when you do this, because the starter ground appears to be the ONLY connection between the electrical system and the frame on the whole bike. My bike ran without the ground jumper, but the fuel injection system would cut in and out !
2) Remove the starter itself.
3) Remove the starter idler gears behind the starter housing cover.
4) Remove the starter clutch behind the flywheel.
5) Remove the starter button !
Here is how one removes the flywheel to get at the starter clutch. Its pretty simple if you have the tool.
This is the starter clutch. It weighs 1.3 pounds and some of it is spinning weight !
This is the automotive frost plug that I used to plug the starter hole. It fits perfectly.
It presses in easily with a C clamp. It could be removed without much trouble.
With the starter gone, you no longer need the starter breather outlet, so plug it off with an automotive vacuum plug cap.
This then allows you to ditch a bunch of breather tube and a Y and streamline the engine breather system.
Every deleted piece on the bike saves weight. 0.2 pounds doesn't seem like much, but 10 of those is 2 pounds, which is nearly 10% of the 25 pound goal.
Note: The WR breather system connects to the air box so the engine doesn't draw in water accidentally. The YZs just use a piece of hose down the front tube of the frame. They have been known to draw in water with resulting engine damage !
Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, May 23, 2014 - 08:45 AM.