Front Brake Questions



7 replies to this topic
  • bbeakley

Posted December 16, 2001 - 06:55 AM

#1

My front brake feels a little mushy. I don't really remember if it was like this when it was new or not and I probably wouldn't have noticed cuz this is my first bike. It also squeeks when I lightly drag it. I was going to take it apart and clean the caliper and the disc to try and help but if you guys have any other suggestions on how to de-squeek it I'd love to hear them. I did check the pad thickness and they still have a fair amount of life left. Also, is the mushy feel indicative of air in the line? I checked the fluid level and it is just above the low level line. What intervals do you guys use for a complete brake fluid flush?

Lastly, what are the advantages of going to the CR style line routing? I've heard several people talking about how to get it done, but not why. What's it do for ya?

[ December 16, 2001: Message edited by: bbeakley ]

[ December 16, 2001: Message edited by: bbeakley ]

  • av8tor

Posted December 16, 2001 - 07:30 AM

#2

I have the fast-brake "Honda style" front line on my '01 426. Unfortunately I put an oversized front rotor on at the same time so I don't know if the brake-line made an improvement. Last week in Laughlin when Ty Davis went blowing by me I noticed that he had a stock front brake system and it seemed to work fine for him. After spending tons on after-market stuff I am finally learning that instead of working over-time to afford the stuff I should be out riding and getting faster.

The mushy front brake is almost certainly the result of air. I only ride about 200 miles a month, mostly desert racing, and I bleed my brakes every 6 months. Same time as when I change my fork and shock oil.

Parts Unlimited sells a one-way bleed screw "replaces the stock one" that allows you to open it an 1/8 of a turn and then just pump the lever until the air is out.

If you have the floating front rotor, (2000 and newer) you have a great front brake. The oversize rotors give you even more but how much more can the average guy utilize.

The most important thing about the brakes is to make sure you use fresh brake fluid. The stuff absorbs water from the air and that lowers its boiling point.

Race on.

  • sirthumpalot

Posted December 16, 2001 - 08:01 AM

#3

Be sure that the fliud is full to the top and that you cannot see any air in the sight glass. Definitely try bleeding it first to cure the musiness. A small trick, if you're all alone and need to bleed the brakes and don't have one of those fancy vacuum tools, is that you can put a rubber band around the brake lever that is strong enough to keep pressure on it. Then crack the bleed screw open a tad to let some fluid/air out. Be sure to close it BEFORE the lever hits the handlebar so that you don't loose pressure. Then pull the lever back out and do it again. Maybe not the best method, but it works in a pinch.

As for the sqeaking, it's normal for some minor occasional sqeaking from most disk brakes. If it's only occasional and it's not a strange or severe sqeak and everyhting else checks out ok (pads, disk, fastners, etc..) then I personally wouldn't worry about it.

  • Dan_YZF

Posted December 16, 2001 - 04:36 PM

#4

Hi,

I'm in the same boat as you, as a long time CR rider, I don't like the feel of my 00-426F front brake....I hardly suspect the "Akebono" master cylinder....

This winter I plan to swap to a 2001-2002 YZ front master (they switch to Nissin on all full size YZ-WR since 2001) They're pretty cheap, I've seen something like 88$ on some web site (powersportspro.com, cycleparts.com or even hslm1.com

Yamaha part #Y5MV-W2587-00-00

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  • moto2000

Posted December 16, 2001 - 07:33 PM

#5

Try bleeding your brakes again, but remove the caliper and pads, and push in the pistons with a c-clamp or something. This reduces the volume in the caliper and makes it easier to get any trapped air out. I messed with the brakes on my 2000 for quite a while, trying to get rid of the mush feel at the lever. Bled several times, tried Honda master cyl and installed braided honda style line. These things helped somewhat,but I still had excessive travel at the lever. Then I tried c-clamp trick (read about on this forum) and BINGO solid lever! I don't think the stock master cyl is all that bad, as I swapped it over to my Honda and the brakes still felt crisp. Hope this helps.

  • vznx1w

Posted December 17, 2001 - 07:11 AM

#6

bbeakley,
I agree that you probably have air in the system. However, I have greatly improved my 01 426 by adding DP Pro-MX brake pads and the Fastline "CR routing" front brake line. I changed these one-at-a-time and am certain that the biggest improvement came from the brake pad swap--which I performed first. With the DP pads, I get MUCH more power and 2-finger stoppies are now easy. Adding the Fastline hose did improve brake feel--made the lever feel slightly more firm--but didn't actually change how fast I can stop. I am now totally happy with my brake performance, even after hopping on my son's CR!! Prior to these mods, everytime I'd ride his bike I'd become disappointed, with the front brake, when getting back on the 426. Good luck, Steve

  • Merfman

Posted December 17, 2001 - 11:03 AM

#7

If someone else has added this, I apologize. If you want your
brake to work as well as possible, use Motul brake fluid.
You WILL notice the difference. Accept no substitute.

Merf

  • BEEF_706

Posted December 17, 2001 - 11:20 AM

#8

I added a Fastech braided brake line without even going to the CR routing and it really firmed up the feel, i was really happy with it until I rode my buddy's with the new line and the CR routing,and his is even better. Next time I'll know





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