Clutch Adjustment and General Running Where to Start?



29 replies to this topic
  • foggy3061

Posted September 15, 2013 - 10:28 PM

#21

I think you should download the workshop manual in .pdf form from the yamaha uk site - it will help!

 

Check your bike is a 2007 first though - many wr's sold secondhand in the UK are advertised as the wrong year, intentionally or not this can confuse the new owner no end!

 

http://www.yamaha-mo...uals/index.aspx



  • GuyGraham

Posted September 16, 2013 - 08:49 AM

#22

I think you should download the workshop manual in .pdf form from the yamaha uk site - it will help!

 

Check your bike is a 2007 first though - many wr's sold secondhand in the UK are advertised as the wrong year, intentionally or not this can confuse the new owner no end!

 

http://www.yamaha-mo...uals/index.aspx

 

If its got an alloy frame then its 2007, as the 2006 bikes had a steel frame

 

 

 

As regards the clutch - They do drag, enough to making starting in gear difficult but no more.

As its only got 400 miles on it, its been sat for a long time - give it a good thrashing  and see if the clutch situation improves before diving into it

Its very easy to get into the clutch to have a look at the plates, as the whole clutch cover doesn't have to come off. you can get access to the clutch by just removing the circular cover on the RH side crankcase cover, so no draining of the water etc.


Edited by GuyGraham, September 16, 2013 - 08:54 AM.


  • GuyGraham

Posted September 16, 2013 - 08:56 AM

#23

By adding any free play to the clutch it just seems to mean that it is even less likely to disengage.

 

 

 

you need to be removing free play to make the clutch dis-engage more, not adding it



  • Snow Drift

Posted September 18, 2013 - 01:01 PM

#24

Thanks for the replies. I think the bike has the standard levers on as they look standard and I don't think the bike has really been modified much. I don't really want to started modifying the lever at the case so will just monitor the situation and hope that the clutch frees up a little with time. If it gets really bad I may try new plates, although I have also been reading about rekluse clutches...

 

I have removed almost all the free play and the clutch engages with the lever about half way. Sometimes the clutch fully disengages then the next time it doesn't.

 

I'm pretty sure my bike is 2007 as I searched specifically for an alloy frame model (which I have) and the registration is a 56 plate. I have also downloaded a manual for the bike.

 

Following on from the posts above about general running etc. I took the bike out for a bit of ride on the roads where I live. I have not touched the jetting or actually sorted the airbox yet. The power on the bike is a bit like a turbo car, nothing then a big hit then nothing again. So at the moment I would say that all the power is in the mid range. Is that what people call the bog? I don't want to start rejetting if the bike is actually running okay.

 

Also when I came back from the ride after about 40 mins and stopped the bike, I could hear gurggling and bubbling from the front like a breather pipe was letting off some pressure with boiling fluid somewhere maybe. Is that normal or does it sound like the bike is getting too hot?



  • GuyGraham

Posted September 19, 2013 - 09:09 AM

#25

If you have an alloy frame model on a 56 plate then its a 2007 model without a doubt

 

A bog is when you twist the throttle to accelerate and the engine either doesn't respond or actually feels like it looses power - usually a problem with the AP squirt timing / duration / clogged nozzle

The power should be smooth, linear and instant. No hiccoups, lag or rough running. I t should leift the front wheel in the first 3 gears with nothing more than a twist of the throttle

 

The gurggling is the from the petrol tank breather pipe doing its job

Put your finger over the end of the pipe and the sound will disappear.


Edited by GuyGraham, September 19, 2013 - 09:09 AM.


Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Snow Drift

Posted September 23, 2013 - 10:59 AM

#26

Well I took the bike out for a good ride this weekend and the clutch situation hasn't really improved. Sometimes it fully disengages and other times not, most of the time not though.

 

Although I understand that the clutch on these will always drag a bit I think what I have is excessive. I mean I pull up to a junction or try to slow down or come to a place where I need to get into first gear and pull in the clutch but because it is not fully disengaging it is effectively like trying to ride the bike at idle and therefore stalls.

 

It is therefore unmanagable for technical bits etc. I need to find out how much new clutch plates and discs are but I'm concerned that they will be pricey. I was wondering if it is getting to the stage where it would be best to look at the Rekluse £385 clutch that fits in the standard basket. The only reason I say this is if I spend at a guess £100 on new genuine plates and still have the problem I'm some way towards a basic rekluse which I'm guessing would solve the problem?



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted September 23, 2013 - 06:29 PM

#27

There should be no reason why your stock clutch is worn out already, UNLESS you have the wrong steel plates.

I had a 2003 WR with the wrong steels in it, and it did the same thing.

Not likely though. More likely it is one bad steel plate.

The service manual has the plate thickness specs so you can check, and check the free play in the plates.

Barnett makes a clutch pack for $90.00USD that is fantastic.

Stock parts are about $ 160.00

Rekluse clutch is overkill unless you go to the EXP Core, which will eliminate your need for a clutch lever.


Edited by Krannie, September 23, 2013 - 06:30 PM.


  • GuyGraham

Posted September 24, 2013 - 09:26 AM

#28

take the plates out and post some pic's esp of the steels lying flat so we can see if they are warped

 

It'll cost you nothing to take them out, as the O-ring that seals the clutch cover centre is re-usable.

 

As far as UK prices for the clutch, for Genuine yamaha parts

 

3 off 4X7163250000 steel plates £8.95 ea

4 off 1TA163250000 steel plates £ 8.02 ea

8 off 5TA163210000 Friction plates £12.00 ea

 

As Krannie says, I doubt your clutch is worn out

 

At the very least, soak the friction plates in oil for 24Hrs and try it again


Edited by GuyGraham, September 24, 2013 - 09:35 AM.


  • Snow Drift

Posted September 24, 2013 - 12:45 PM

#29

Sounds like a good idea. I will take the plates and metal discs out and check them on a piece of glass. I thought that the amount of warppage needed to cause a problem would be so slight that it would be difficult to show when looking at the plates and metal discs on a flat surface.

 

I need to rejet asap also so as to prevent the possibility of further warppage.

 

I thought that the Rekluse looked interesting. I have not been on a bike properly in years and while I can use the clutch okay, when I'm opening the throttle and trying to do gear changes at a fast pace the time it takes me to get my fingers off the grip onto the lever into position and pull the lever in fully it slightly interrupts the smoothness of my shifting.

 

Is the basic Rekluse that fits in the standard clutch basket not worth it?


Edited by Snow Drift, September 24, 2013 - 12:46 PM.


  • GuyGraham

Posted September 25, 2013 - 09:47 AM

#30

I need to rejet asap also so as to prevent the possibility of further warppage.

 

Jetting has not and cannot affect the clutch and cause warpage

Abusing the clutch by excessive slipping is normally the killer - it causes oil to burn onto the friction plates altering their frictional properties (ie reduces it and causes it to slip) and the heat generated causes the steels to dish which causes clutch drag  when disnegange (coz plates don't disengage fully) and slippage coz the steels are in effect pushing the plates apart and hence slippage occurs.

 

Can't comment on the rekluse as never had one, but a properly sorted normal clutch should disengage so bike will start in gear when warm (its a bit iffy when cold) and have no slippage under power






 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.