APT SmartCarb install


8 replies to this topic
  • Wyorever

Posted 15 August 2013 - 09:53 AM

#1

Before we start I have to preface this with the carbs I have are prototypes, so your install might be a little different. I also have 40mm carbs, but the bodies are the same so it should be the same.

image_zps9a2685db.jpg

I picked up this bike three days ago as I knew the history of it, its been treated well and the previous owner hardly rode it. So lets start with a, dirty, 2007 YZ 250. The bike recently had a top end job, has VForce3 reeds and a Pro Circuit pipe with stock silencer.

image_zps51389a19.jpg

I figured the easiest way to do this is to strip the bike down. I took off the gas tank and subframe in two pieces. I didn't take off the rear shock, but it would've been easier to install the carb if I would have. It's a tight squeeze getting the carb in there, with rear shock off you will have a straight shot.

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Next you can take off the stock carb and disconnect the two connectors.

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I zip tied the connector back on itself to keep it out of the way.

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Now we're ready throw in the SC. I first tried putting the carb on the reed side first and then putting the air box/subframe side on. Getting around the rear shock here was difficult so I installed the subframe side first, then slipped on the reed boot.

image_zps0edf338c.jpg

image_zps8da5c451.jpg

This is where I ran into issues you guys will not have. Because my carbs are prototypes, and were not built specifically for the YZ 250, the cable end does not thread into the cap that I have. As I said, you guys will not have this issue because your carbs are built specifically for your bike. I've sent Corey an email asking about purchasing either a new cap, or a cast 38 if they aren't sold out.

At any rate, this is where you will thread your end cable into the cap, then put the spring on over your cable and install your cable into the slide. Put the slide into the carb, not forgetting the gasket, tighten the bolts down, position your carb in the boots how you like it, and tighten the clamps down. From there you can put your tank/shrouds/seat back on, and out the fuel line on.

image_zps0dc75759.jpg

Now you're ready to go test out your APT SmartCarb!

image_zps586292b5.jpg

Hope this was helpful. I wish I could go ride it and give you guys a report, but I'm very confident these will work great on these bikes. I've seen the results first hand on a handful of different bikes, two 2009 KTM 300's, a 2011 GasGas 300, an older KTM 250 and numerous scooters and pit bikes.

  • pontiac252

Posted 15 August 2013 - 10:03 AM

#2

So did you have any probs with the air box?



  • Wyorever

Posted 15 August 2013 - 10:09 AM

#3

No, I tried to install the carb on the reed boot first but the clearance around the shock wouldn't allow me to get the air box on easily. So I installed the air box first, then slid the carb into the reed boot.

A quick note, take the hose clamps completely off while putting the carb on, it's a tight fit.

  • Wyorever

Posted 15 August 2013 - 10:11 AM

#4

Also, while installing the air box, I put a screw driver in the too mount of the sub frame to act as a pivot point to ease the installation into the reed boot.

  • kingkabong

Posted 15 August 2013 - 02:50 PM

#5

Sweet, thanks!  Hope I'll be performing this install soon!  :)



  • numroe

Posted 17 August 2013 - 07:10 AM

#6

I'll get a Smart Carb one day too.

 

Is the air boot rubbing on the rear spring?  A steel spring might gain you 1 or 2mm more clearance.

 

Are those tires the original D756 rear and D742 front? if yes then you're not kidding the previous owner hardly rode it!

 

What's with the angle of that clutch lever?  ;)

 

The 2007 shock is pretty bad. I got one. 08 and later valving is much better.



  • Wyorever

Posted 17 August 2013 - 06:51 PM

#7

I'll get a Smart Carb one day too.
 
Is the air boot rubbing on the rear spring?  A steel spring might gain you 1 or 2mm more clearance.
 
Are those tires the original D756 rear and D742 front? if yes then you're not kidding the previous owner hardly rode it!
 
What's with the angle of that clutch lever?  ;)
 
The 2007 shock is pretty bad. I got one. 08 and later valving is much better.


No rubbing, I just couldn't get it on from that side as it was too tight for my hands.

Yes, those are the original tires, the rear is about done, but I'm going to flip it around and run it for the rest of the summer or as long as I can.

And those levers are brand new! I bent the brake lever on a stupid high side the day before trying to keep up with my 450 brethren on the hills, bad move lol.

Thanks for the tip on the rear shock! This one is very soft for my 200lb butt!

  • Wyorever

Posted 13 October 2013 - 06:53 AM

#8

Bump, little update, I ordered a throttle cable from Motion Pro and had to order a choke lever as well. Everything is here and I've got the bike stripped down and ready to install the carb, just haven't had the time. Hopefully this afternoon or tomorrow morning I'll have time and get some pics up.

  • Wyorever

Posted 16 October 2013 - 06:56 AM

#9

On, the bike. No binding, idles great. Only bad part is its 30 degrees out and I'm a chicken :lol:

image_zps47f2442a.jpg





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