WR450 2013 FMF muffler



25 replies to this topic
  • WRLuisSa

Posted August 11, 2013 - 09:54 AM

#1

Hi everyone,

 

I bought a brand new FMF powercore 4 muffler for my 2013 WR450 and decided to mount it this weekend.

 

However, that are two things that I am concerned with that do not seem right (please see pictures):

 

  1. The mid section of the muffler almost touches the engine (has like 1mm gap, maybe not even that)
  2. The tip of the muffler at the back touches the right side white plastic

 

Before buying the muffler I have tried to confirm with the yamaha shop that it was the correct part for my bike and they told me that it was...

 

Furthermore, it fitted perfectly on the bike and I did not have to force anything in.

 

 

Please let me know your thoughts.

 

Thanks

 

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  • 123devinzz1

Posted August 11, 2013 - 10:13 AM

#2

Hi everyone,

 

I bought a brand new FMF powercore 4 muffler for my 2013 WR450 and decided to mount it this weekend.

 

However, that are two things that I am concerned with that do not seem right (please see pictures):

 

  1. The mid section of the muffler almost touches the engine (has like 1mm gap, maybe not even that)
  2. The tip of the muffler at the back touches the right side white plastic

 

Before buying the muffler I have tried to confirm with the yamaha shop that it was the correct part for my bike and they told me that it was...

 

Furthermore, it fitted perfectly on the bike and I did not have to force anything in.

 

 

Please let me know your thoughts.

 

Thanks

 

They all fit but I dont think it was exactly built for the 2012+ because im pretty sure they switched to the hex style at that point.



  • 123devinzz1

Posted August 11, 2013 - 10:23 AM

#3

but there is very little room to spare on the 2007-2011 models to it appears.

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  • vlxjim

Posted August 11, 2013 - 11:39 AM

#4

Thats not the right one. Most fit but not perfect. The 2012-13 HEX style Q4 or PowerCore pipe is the same just the core and sticker thats different. I spent five phone calls with FMF tech. The dealers have the wrong part #s. Rocky, Parts unlimited too have the wrong #s and they now know it but say its going to take a while to fix. Western performance was the only one that has the part number fixed in there system and has the part in stock for the dealers.

 

9489550820_4f6a9d45e9_c.jpg

 

9486755785_6898d68c3f_c.jpg

 

9489557154_a06e44714f_c.jpg


Edited by vlxjim, August 12, 2013 - 07:36 AM.


  • WRLuisSa

Posted August 11, 2013 - 10:39 PM

#5

Thanks for the quick reply guys!

 

Indeed, the FMF muffler that I bought seems to be for the older WR models.

 

 

VLXJIM or anyone else are you able to provide the part number for the muffler?

 

By the way, when you install the muffler onto the stock header, do you even apply any silicone as per the FMF instructions?

 

 

Thanks!

 



  • vlxjim

Posted August 12, 2013 - 07:44 AM

#6

Q4 Hex  044398

 

Powercore Hex  044397

 

No silicone 



  • WRLuisSa

Posted August 13, 2013 - 09:11 AM

#7

Sorry guys again, came across another issue.

 

When I was trying to remove the new FMF muffler that does not fit so that I could return it, since I have used high temp silicone to seal it properly, now the aluminum adapter that came with the new muffler does not want to come off the header pipe. Please see the picture

 

It has silicone in between the header piper and the adapter. Any urgent suggestions please as I cannot damage anything?

 

Many thanks 

 

 

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  • vlxjim

Posted August 13, 2013 - 10:38 AM

#8

Two ways:

 

1. put it back together and warm it up real good. Using the right gloves pull the muffler off. Use a piece of wood against the edge of the aluminum adapter and hit the wood with a hammer.

 

2. pull the header and soak overnight in acetone.

 

 

Or you could just trade it with the new one that your new pipe comes with.


Edited by vlxjim, August 13, 2013 - 10:40 AM.


  • WRLuisSa

Posted August 13, 2013 - 11:09 AM

#9

Thanks again for the quick reply.

 

I have removed the header indeed, and left it soaking in gasoline for now, but not sure it will work as RTV silicone sticks like crazy.

 

I was told that paint thinner might also work. Is that more or less acetone?

 

Lastly, I will maybe try warm it with a heat gun/blow torch, what do you think?



  • JDLowrance

Posted August 13, 2013 - 04:09 PM

#10

Just swap it with the new one. No need to remove it from the stock header.



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  • WRLuisSa

Posted August 13, 2013 - 07:04 PM

#11

I wish it was that easy. The guys from the shop still have to contact the dealer again and try to make sure they can return the muffler and swap by another one. Either way I am returning it to the shop. Next it might take a few weeks before the new muffler arrives. Eventually it will be a month or even more before I get the new muffler. Thus, I wanted to completely remove this one and put the stock exhaust back and still use the bike.

Any more suggestions please?

Thanks

  • vlxjim

Posted August 13, 2013 - 09:14 PM

#12

Thanks again for the quick reply.

 

I have removed the header indeed, and left it soaking in gasoline for now, but not sure it will work as RTV silicone sticks like crazy.

 

I was told that paint thinner might also work. Is that more or less acetone?

 

Lastly, I will maybe try warm it with a heat gun/blow torch, what do you think?

Gas or paint thinner won't do it you need acetone. Thinner is not the same a acetone. Heat gun or torch would work. Use is on the inside of the pipe so that you won't discolor the parts. The heat will cause the aluminum to expand faster than stainless steel this could cause the RTV to lose its bond on one surface. 


Edited by vlxjim, August 13, 2013 - 09:20 PM.


  • WRLuisSa

Posted August 13, 2013 - 10:22 PM

#13

Sure, I will probably try with the heat gun/torch.

 

I actually left it overnight in gas but did not seem to work. 

 

I am afraid acetone will evaporate quickly if you pour it into a container and leave it for a while, don´t you think?

 

Thanks



  • vlxjim

Posted August 14, 2013 - 08:08 AM

#14

No it will be ok. I do it all the time. It well evaporate, but not that quick. Make sure that you use a metal or poly bowl.


Edited by vlxjim, August 14, 2013 - 07:49 PM.


  • WRLuisSa

Posted August 14, 2013 - 11:19 AM

#15

I left it all day long in gas again and somehow slowly it seems to be forcing the silicone out, as in theory when you have gas on silicone it expands.

I will leave it for a little longer until I get the acetone.

 

As for the torch, I am still a bit afraid of doing it because even though I can do it from the inside, it will eventually also expand the outer stainless steel piece. In theory we want the opposite (this is, we want the outer metal piece to expand and the inner one to remain) so that the gap increases and might be easier to force it out. In this case if I use a torch on the outer metal part, it will turn it black as you mentioned as well, not something that I want :)

 

I think after a few days, while it is still being "dissolved" by gas and acetone, I might try to tap it out with wood or some plastic, see if it works.

 

Thanks for the ideas so far!



  • vlxjim

Posted August 14, 2013 - 07:52 PM

#16

Aluminum expands at much lower temperature than stainless steel. 



  • vlxjim

Posted August 14, 2013 - 08:01 PM

#17

I just realized your not in the USA. Hows getting parts over there? Living here in Southern California more so Valencia its seem like I'm 5 minutes from most of the top aftermarket manufactures. 



  • WRLuisSa

Posted August 14, 2013 - 10:35 PM

#18

Yap indeed. I am not in the USA, not even in a first world country. I am in Mozambique, thus you can imagine how difficult to get parts here, even worse to get aftermarket parts.

I have to buy everything in South Africa, including my bikes.

Even though South Africa has Yamaha shops, it does take time for them to get the aftermarket parts since they need to come from USA and maybe other countries.



  • vlxjim

Posted August 14, 2013 - 11:28 PM

#19

Look like you have some great places to ride. Over here its hard to find good places to ride. The states and federal government like to close all they can down. Well good luck with that pipe.



  • WRLuisSa

Posted August 18, 2013 - 10:39 PM

#20

Hello all,

 

Got the aluminium part out of the header pipe, just like vlxjim suggested. Used a torch on that aluminum part for a bit and eventually when pulled it, it came out.

 

Many thanks for your suggestions and help.

 

 

Just so that I know next time, do you really think the RTV silicone is really needed between the header pipe and muffler??






 
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