Stalling with Rekluse (2011 yz450)



8 replies to this topic
  • JLB943

Posted July 29, 2013 - 08:36 AM

#1

I am having issues with the bike stalling out with the Rekluse clutch. I have installed the EXP 2.0 on the bike as it came with the medium setting. I have been having issues with the bike stalling on the track coming out of a turn where I chop the throttle and then get back on it.
Force of habit, I still pull the clutch coming hard into turns sometimes but the stalling issues are mainly getting back on the throttle at exit. I set the freeplay estimating it between 1/8" and 1/4". The stock clutch adjuster seems to slip and I have to reset it often. I bought the Rekluse as an anti-stall device and kinda bummed it is not as effective at this right now. Granted it only happens every once and awhile on the track but restarting this thing in the heat while you are being baked in the sun not all that fun.

I am looking at the Injectioneering mod as possible future change to help with the stalling.

Anyone have any advice? Rekluse told me to try the gold springs and report back. I am going to do this before my next ride.

  • Crusty Cy

Posted July 29, 2013 - 03:31 PM

#2

I experienced the same thing with the EXP 2.0 on my 2012. I was never successful ironing it out - the issue is linked (as you suspect) to the rich off-idle condition caused by the stock throttle body, which cannot be tuned out by the GYTR power tuner. Solution - I just took the Rekluse off and am trying to deal with the random stalling by being more agressive in turns and over obstacles. This is a shame, as the Rekluse combined with 4 stroke power felt like cheating on uphills. Good luck in your quest for a fix. For sale - slightly used Rekluse for 2010-2013 YZ 450.

  • torkd14

Posted August 27, 2013 - 06:28 AM

#3

The Rekluse EXP 2.0 on my 2006 450 just started doing this, it's only been in the bike for 40 or 50 hours. I race in the mountains and when cresting a steep hill or jumping logs it somehow kills the motor. Im starting to think the springs in the Rekluse itself might be getting weak. When the rekluse was first installed there was rarely a stalling issue. Im thinking of getting in contact with someone in the Rekluse company. It is one of the greatest aftermarket parts put on my bike, I'm hoping the problem can be rectified and get it  back working top notch.  

 

Ill reply if I can get some answers from Rekluse.



  • grayracer513

Posted August 27, 2013 - 08:13 AM

#4

Does it stall as you open the throttle at low RPM, or as you close it quickly under a load?

 

To elaborate, condition 1 would be something like where you turn up a hill in second, roll into it, and it chugs hard a couple of times and stalls.  Condition 2 (which sounds more like your problem) would be where you have to power up over something that takes a couple of stabs at the throttle, and then when you quickly back off, it quits.



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  • torkd14

Posted August 27, 2013 - 10:51 AM

#5

Does it stall as you open the throttle at low RPM, or as you close it quickly under a load?

 

To elaborate, condition 1 would be something like where you turn up a hill in second, roll into it, and it chugs hard a couple of times and stalls.  Condition 2 (which sounds more like your problem) would be where you have to power up over something that takes a couple of stabs at the throttle, and then when you quickly back off, it quits.

 

 

Your second condition is exactly the problem. There are a few times i know for sure I let off the throttle to fast and the load from the up hill killed it but it just seems to be getting much more touchy. I've played with the cable tension on the lever perch but havn't dove right into messing with the rekluse itself yet.



  • Jason221

Posted August 27, 2013 - 01:58 PM

#6

I am having issues with the bike stalling out with the Rekluse clutch. I have installed the EXP 2.0 on the bike as it came with the medium setting. I have been having issues with the bike stalling on the track coming out of a turn where I chop the throttle and then get back on it.
Force of habit, I still pull the clutch coming hard into turns sometimes but the stalling issues are mainly getting back on the throttle at exit. I set the freeplay estimating it between 1/8" and 1/4". The stock clutch adjuster seems to slip and I have to reset it often. I bought the Rekluse as an anti-stall device and kinda bummed it is not as effective at this right now. Granted it only happens every once and awhile on the track but restarting this thing in the heat while you are being baked in the sun not all that fun.

I am looking at the Injectioneering mod as possible future change to help with the stalling.

Anyone have any advice? Rekluse told me to try the gold springs and report back. I am going to do this before my next ride.

I've learned a few lessons about Rekluse stalling and I'll share them. First, I had worn fingers on the clutch basket which didn't allow the plates to ride in and out smoothly. This causes chattering and inconstant engagement. After getting a new basket, it still stalled and seemed to be in gear even pulling the hand lever. The worn basket caused pitting on the disks where the wedge balls ride, this causes the wedges to stick in the outer position causing stalls, as if you hit the brakes in gear, and you can't roll the bike or kick it over cuz it's stuck in gear, ( if it stays stuck long enough for you to catch it in the act). New wedge disks resolved the problem. (the things that sandwich the wedges) (look for lines or grooves on the basket fingers and pits in the wedge ball grooves) Rekluse gave me a set under warranty.

 

On to the other stall problem, ripping the throttle with medium wedges seems to be too much engagement for not enough rpm. Switching to HIGH RPM engagement springs on medium wedges reduces it and drag at idle, but not gone.

 

For absolutely no fricken stalling EVER! ,( assuming your valves and bike is good),  I have gone to the light wedge. It slips perfectly for starts without wheelies, has smoother engagement which is less jerky for better balance in the tight woods. I run the medium RPM springs with the light wedges. The down side is it is hard to wheelie up the front end to pop over logs, drop offs exc., and it kind of revs then sling shots at the top end vs. instant hit. (I've gotten come from behind hole shots starting in 2nd with light wedges) I'm considering trying drilling my medium wedges out to make them half way between the weight of the light and mediums. Since the light wedges are clearly just medium ones with holes drilled on them to make them lighter.  Maybe it'll be best of both worlds....... Enduro / Cross Country Racer



  • grayracer513

Posted August 27, 2013 - 05:09 PM

#7

 I run the medium RPM springs with the light wedges.

 

This is along the lines of one of two possible solutions I would offer.  But like I said, there's two. 

 

Assume you had a carburetor and no Rekluse, and it stalled in the same conditions even when you pull the clutch at the last minute.  The cause of that would most likely be too rich an idle circuit.  Just as a lean idle causes the idle speed to "hang" or stay elevated for too long after revving the engine, a rich idle causes the RPM to drop too fast as it returns to idle, and the engine speed will dip below idle and possibly stall.  So to the degree you can, try to lean out the low speed/idle side of things a little.

 

But for the clutch itself, after taking Jason's advice as to the condition of the clutch hardware, What you want to try is to reduce the engagement rate.  The Rekluse in any form offers adjustment of both the rpm at which the clutch begins to engage (engagement point) and of the rate at which it engages once it starts to.  Engagement rate can be thought of as the range in rpm from the time the clutch begins to engage to the point where it's locked up solid.  If the clutch engages more gradually, it will also begin to release slightly sooner, so this will help. 

 

The engagement point is controlled by changing the springs, which are normally offered in three possible combinations for low, medium and high engagement points.  Rate is generally controlled by varying the weight of either the balls in the case of the Z-Start Pro or the wedges in either of the EXP clutches.  The lighter weight makes it take longer to engage. 

 

The engagement point should be just off idle.  The bike should idle without creeping appreciably, even though it probably won't allow you to shift to neutral without pulling the lever, but start to move immediately above that RPM.   Once you think you have that set where it belongs, it's time to start dinking with the engagement rate.  If you are using the heavier wedges, review the instructions that came with your Rekluse regarding tuning the clutch.  As I remember, the EXP 2.0 uses 6 wedges that are supplied in light and heavy weights.  These can be installed in several combinations; 6 heavy will yield the quickest engagement, 6 light the most gradual, and the combinations 4H/2L and 2H/4L rates in between.  Try it at the same engagement point you now have (same springs), but a slower rate (lighter set of wedges).  I'd start with 6 light wedges and see how you like that.



  • JLB943

Posted August 28, 2013 - 08:44 AM

#8

For my situation, right now I feel that the engagement point is good.

I had a Z-start on my old bike and I could never get that to not creep at idle.

With the EXP 2.0, the engagement comes fairly well right off idle but does not creep.

The clutch only came with the medium wedges.

So I have medium spring and medium wedges.

On tight turns on the mx track, I feel that these sometimes do not engage quick enough. I am not sure this is true because the heavier wedges may end up causing traction issue. Right now the bike tractors out pretty smooth.

Last time out (Englishtown), the bike did not stall on the track only is the parking lot where I hit the throttle chop it and went to get back on it stalled.

 

The issue with the wedges is you have to shell out $90 a set to get light or heavy. I am not sure I want to do this if it ends up not being any better.



  • Crusty Cy

Posted August 30, 2013 - 03:43 PM

#9

Not to harp on this any further, but I wouldn't waste any more time or money on the EXP 2.0.  I bet if you had one on a late model KX450 it would work great, but then again the Kawasaki does not have the inconsistent fueling of the Yamaha.  Heck, the Rekluse even would shut off my YZ450 coming down from high speeds.  Since I took it off, no further problems.  So. long story short, I am back to a YZ250 for hare scrambles and the YZ450 for practice and moto. 







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