Can anyone recommend a good battery?


23 replies to this topic
  • mr2autoxr

Posted July 15, 2013 - 04:19 PM

#1

I have an '04 450 and have owned it just about a year now. I'm having battery issues as I've just killed my second one somehow.

Battery needed replaced when I bought it so I looked around and bought the Turntech lithium battery for stronger starts and lighter weight. First one lasted about 4 months and it was dead and would not hold charge. Thought problem could have been it sat out of the bike in my basement over the winter.

Talked to Turntech and they gave me a list of things to check to make sure bike didn't have a draw and was charging correctly. Everything checked out and i went through manual and all electrical tested passed too. Paid partial for another Turntech as it was just out of full warranty coverage.

So today i was stranded when I stopped for gas, bike wouldn't start when I tried to leave. No red light on ignition button and it would not kick start no matter what. This is exactly what happened when the first battery was deemed bad.

So do these batteries suck? Or does my bike eat batteries? This one was new in May! What other brand is tested to last? I'm not even trying to submit the warranty on this Turntech one. Twice I've been stranded and needed a truck to get home.

Thanks for some opinions.
Mike

  • 123devinzz1

Posted July 15, 2013 - 06:31 PM

#2

I have an '04 450 and have owned it just about a year now. I'm having battery issues as I've just killed my second one somehow.

Battery needed replaced when I bought it so I looked around and bought the Turntech lithium battery for stronger starts and lighter weight. First one lasted about 4 months and it was dead and would not hold charge. Thought problem could have been it sat out of the bike in my basement over the winter.

Talked to Turntech and they gave me a list of things to check to make sure bike didn't have a draw and was charging correctly. Everything checked out and i went through manual and all electrical tested passed too. Paid partial for another Turntech as it was just out of full warranty coverage.

So today i was stranded when I stopped for gas, bike wouldn't start when I tried to leave. No red light on ignition button and it would not kick start no matter what. This is exactly what happened when the first battery was deemed bad.

So do these batteries suck? Or does my bike eat batteries? This one was new in May! What other brand is tested to last? I'm not even trying to submit the warranty on this Turntech one. Twice I've been stranded and needed a truck to get home.

Thanks for some opinions.
Mike


The bike should start with the kickstart with or WITHOUT a battery. Havnt heard much about the turntech themselves but alot of good things about the li batteries in general (one of them being that they are good at holding a charge for long amounts of time. Sounds like your bike isnt putting out enough power on its own to run and charge the battery at same time (Even though you did mention that the tests checked good) I would try another stock yuasa maintenance free batt. Never had one go dead in any of my toys in 9 years.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 15, 2013 - 06:48 PM

#3

Yes... check that stator. Is the light shinning brightly when the bike is running? I know that its an AC light, but it could really indicate something is wrong with the stator.


You have 14v across the battery when the bike is running?

I had an 05 and I am not sure how you could feel any weight savings from a battery. The WR's are heavy, plain and simple. If you go back to the Yuasa, then you won't kill the batttery when it goes completely dead. If your bike is tuned correctly, you don't need the lithium for the WR. I had a similar problem with the battery going dead and ended up changing out the stator and the voltage regulator with the one from TrailTech... and subsequently... had to do an HID light upgrade, which was only about $50 and a great investment.

  • mr2autoxr

Posted July 16, 2013 - 03:43 AM

#4

I'll look into checking the stator again. I'll have to look up how to do that as I don't remember.

Last night I did get the bike fired again and I am getting 14.6 to 14.7 Volts across the battery while the bike is running. The red light on the ignition button is very bright when the battery is hooked up to a tender, but I noticed that even after the bike was running for a bit to charge the battery, I'd shut the bike off and kill the ignition switch. The voltage then read at the battery was still high and around 13.8 to 14.3 Volts with the bike off.

Then if I wanted to attempt to start it again, as soon as I pushed the ignition switch button, the battery voltage would drop to less than 1 V. Mostly was reading around 0.3 Volts and the red light wouldn't come on and everything was dead again. And when the battery is this low I can't get the bike to fire, even by kick starting it and trying to pop the clutch and fire it going down a slight hill.

Only can get it to fire if it's on a battery tender for a bit and then enough juice is in the battery.

I think I'm going to get the stock battery and see if I still have these problems, but will definitely run through the checks again to see if somehow something is wrong with the bike.

  • stevethe

Posted July 16, 2013 - 09:41 AM

#5

My Wr450 killed an expensive lithium batt. it ended up being a baja designs regulator. All seems good now with three different brand lithium batteries in all of our WR's.

  • miweber929

Posted July 16, 2013 - 10:16 AM

#6

The bike should start with the kickstart with or WITHOUT a battery


Everything in this thread is correct and good advice EXCEPT the above statement: the 03+ WR's will not (*usually) kick start and definitely not run well without a battery and with a BAD battery.

If you are not the original owner you need to determine if your stator is modded or replaced with an aftermarket unit. Easiest way to tell is to run the bike (I know, yours doesn't right now) and see if your lights are AC or DC powered, that will tell you if you regulator/rectifier is stock or aftermarket and should be replaced with the like one. If your headlights are AC you should be stock, DC should be modified. Buy a regular battery to replace the Turntech one and try this out, but don't ride long until you get the charging fixed.

To me it seems your charging voltages are a tick high and the lithium battery probably can't handle the extra charging voltage very long. You should be able to pull the battery and get it load tested, my guess its bad and the manual should list what your charging voltages should be, be sure I'm wrong, all is good and your battery is just bad (again) or it would seem your RR needs replacement.

* I say "usually" because in my and most people's experiences these bikes will not start without a battery or other power source in the circuit. However there are a couple people who swear it will based on the wiring diagram and some brief info but I have personally pulled my battery on my 04, tried for 15 minutes to kick it and bump it to life which it would not start. I then hooked up the battery and it started first kick. Others said have gotten it to fire but it seems to run rough as the CDI is looking for a consistent voltage which it doesn't get without a battery or capacitor.

YMMV

  • stevethe

Posted July 16, 2013 - 10:35 AM

#7

Everything in this thread is correct and good advice EXCEPT the above statement: the 03+ WR's will not (*usually) kick start and definitely not run well without a battery and with a BAD battery.

If you are not the original owner you need to determine if your stator is modded or replaced with an aftermarket unit. Easiest way to tell is to run the bike (I know, yours doesn't right now) and see if your lights are AC or DC powered, that will tell you if you regulator/rectifier is stock or aftermarket and should be replaced with the like one. If your headlights are AC you should be stock, DC should be modified. Buy a regular battery to replace the Turntech one and try this out, but don't ride long until you get the charging fixed.

To me it seems your charging voltages are a tick high and the lithium battery probably can't handle the extra charging voltage very long. You should be able to pull the battery and get it load tested, my guess its bad and the manual should list what your charging voltages should be, be sure I'm wrong, all is good and your battery is just bad (again) or it would seem your RR needs replacement.

* I say "usually" because in my and most people's experiences these bikes will not start without a battery or other power source in the circuit. However there are a couple people who swear it will based on the wiring diagram and some brief info but I have personally pulled my battery on my 04, tried for 15 minutes to kick it and bump it to life which it would not start. I then hooked up the battery and it started first kick. Others said have gotten it to fire but it seems to run rough as the CDI is looking for a consistent voltage which it doesn't get without a battery or capacitor.

YMMV


Yep, when my 450 battery died it didn't kick start. Think if the battery has some voltage it might kick start but if it's real dead it's a no.

  • 123devinzz1

Posted July 16, 2013 - 12:41 PM

#8

Everything in this thread is correct and good advice EXCEPT the above statement: the 03+ WR's will not (*usually) kick start and definitely not run well without a battery and with a BAD battery.

If you are not the original owner you need to determine if your stator is modded or replaced with an aftermarket unit. Easiest way to tell is to run the bike (I know, yours doesn't right now) and see if your lights are AC or DC powered, that will tell you if you regulator/rectifier is stock or aftermarket and should be replaced with the like one. If your headlights are AC you should be stock, DC should be modified. Buy a regular battery to replace the Turntech one and try this out, but don't ride long until you get the charging fixed.

To me it seems your charging voltages are a tick high and the lithium battery probably can't handle the extra charging voltage very long. You should be able to pull the battery and get it load tested, my guess its bad and the manual should list what your charging voltages should be, be sure I'm wrong, all is good and your battery is just bad (again) or it would seem your RR needs replacement.

* I say "usually" because in my and most people's experiences these bikes will not start without a battery or other power source in the circuit. However there are a couple people who swear it will based on the wiring diagram and some brief info but I have personally pulled my battery on my 04, tried for 15 minutes to kick it and bump it to life which it would not start. I then hooked up the battery and it started first kick. Others said have gotten it to fire but it seems to run rough as the CDI is looking for a consistent voltage which it doesn't get without a battery or capacitor.

YMMV


My 07 ran without a battery when I was wiring up my dualsport kit?? And ive been told the 2012 plus will run without the battery as well. Sorry if that somehow wasnt true in this case.

  • miweber929

Posted July 16, 2013 - 03:40 PM

#9

My 07 ran without a battery when I was wiring up my dualsport kit?? And ive been told the 2012 plus will run without the battery as well. Sorry if that somehow wasnt true in this case.


If you get a chance can you verify this again? Pull both cables on the battery and try to kick it. My 04 did NOT run, most others including the 07-11's haven't either....maybe a US thing?

I've heard the same thing about the '12 but this was a design change Yamaha did because of the issues people had on the older WR's not running when they decided to pull the estart and battery. Only saw this mentioned once in one review when it was released in '12, have heard or read nothing since and the one rider I spoke with who had a '12 never mentioned it.

Mike

  • 123devinzz1

Posted July 16, 2013 - 04:17 PM

#10

If you get a chance can you verify this again? Pull both cables on the battery and try to kick it. My 04 did NOT run, most others including the 07-11's haven't either....maybe a US thing?

I've heard the same thing about the '12 but this was a design change Yamaha did because of the issues people had on the older WR's not running when they decided to pull the estart and battery. Only saw this mentioned once in one review when it was released in '12, have heard or read nothing since and the one rider I spoke with who had a '12 never mentioned it.

Mike


I have the canadian model. I will test this tomorrow but still dont see why it wouldnt work without a battery like the yz?

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  • chrisparker

Posted July 16, 2013 - 07:09 PM

#11

Sounds like a bad regulator/rectifier. The charging voltage is a little high, imo. 14v is good. Don't know the spec for the ac volts direct out of the stator but checking that wouldn't hurt. I've heard good things about the ballistic batteries and they are way lighter that the stock agm style.
:cheers:

  • mr2autoxr

Posted July 17, 2013 - 07:55 AM

#12

Guys,
I talked with the previous owner yesterday and the bike still has the stock stator in it. Also the headlight doesn't come on until the bike is fired.

I tried kicking the bike multiple times, even push starting it, with a dead battery hooked up. The battery had less than 1V reading and the bike would not fire.

Then talking with the old owner yesterday he said he had run that bike without a battery for weeks before. So I thought let's try that. I pulled the battery, and it fired up on the second kick. I have a headlight and taillight come on, but I do not have my brake lights or turn signals as I have those wired DC.

So at least I'll still be able to ride this weekend, just have to kick start it. I'm thinking like others have mentioned that the regulator is bad and is just slightly over charging the battery and killing it after a few months.

I'll keep everyone posted as to what I find out.

Mike

  • 123devinzz1

Posted July 17, 2013 - 09:34 AM

#13

Guys,
I talked with the previous owner yesterday and the bike still has the stock stator in it. Also the headlight doesn't come on until the bike is fired.

I tried kicking the bike multiple times, even push starting it, with a dead battery hooked up. The battery had less than 1V reading and the bike would not fire.

Then talking with the old owner yesterday he said he had run that bike without a battery for weeks before. So I thought let's try that. I pulled the battery, and it fired up on the second kick. I have a headlight and taillight come on, but I do not have my brake lights or turn signals as I have those wired DC.

So at least I'll still be able to ride this weekend, just have to kick start it. I'm thinking like others have mentioned that the regulator is bad and is just slightly over charging the battery and killing it after a few months.

I'll keep everyone posted as to what I find out.

Mike


"[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][background=rgb(252, 252, 252)] [/background][/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][background=rgb(252, 252, 252)]Everything in this thread is correct and good advice EXCEPT the above statement" proved him wrong :cool:[/background][/font][/color]

  • Do I Care?

Posted July 17, 2013 - 12:13 PM

#14

Everything in this thread is correct and good advice EXCEPT the above statement: the 03+ WR's will not (*usually) kick start and definitely not run well without a battery and with a BAD battery.



* I say "usually" because in my and most people's experiences these bikes will not start without a battery or other power source in the circuit. However there are a couple people who swear it will based on the wiring diagram and some brief info but I have personally pulled my battery on my 04, tried for 15 minutes to kick it and bump it to life which it would not start. I then hooked up the battery and it started first kick. Others said have gotten it to fire but it seems to run rough as the CDI is looking for a consistent voltage which it doesn't get without a battery or capacitor.

YMMV

Everything in this thread is correct and good advice EXCEPT the above statements.
http://www.thumperta...on/page__st__20

  • Do I Care?

Posted July 17, 2013 - 12:22 PM

#15

If you get a chance can you verify this again? Pull both cables on the battery and try to kick it. My 04 did NOT run, most others including the 07-11's haven't either....maybe a US thing?

I've heard the same thing about the '12 but this was a design change Yamaha did because of the issues people had on the older WR's not running when they decided to pull the estart and battery. Only saw this mentioned once in one review when it was released in '12, have heard or read nothing since and the one rider I spoke with who had a '12 never mentioned it.

Mike

The reason yours does not run without the battery installed is that you have the Trailtech regulator. This is a dual circuit and WILL NOT run without a battery.
As released from factory, it WILL run without the battery!

  • miweber929

Posted July 17, 2013 - 02:45 PM

#16

The reason yours does not run without the battery installed is that you have the Trailtech regulator. This is a dual circuit and WILL NOT run without a battery.
As released from factory, it WILL run without the battery!


Nope and nope. You're wrong, so keep talking.

Edited by miweber929, July 17, 2013 - 02:46 PM.


  • miweber929

Posted July 17, 2013 - 02:57 PM

#17

Guys,
I talked with the previous owner yesterday and the bike still has the stock stator in it. Also the headlight doesn't come on until the bike is fired.

I tried kicking the bike multiple times, even push starting it, with a dead battery hooked up. The battery had less than 1V reading and the bike would not fire.

Then talking with the old owner yesterday he said he had run that bike without a battery for weeks before. So I thought let's try that. I pulled the battery, and it fired up on the second kick. I have a headlight and taillight come on, but I do not have my brake lights or turn signals as I have those wired DC.

So at least I'll still be able to ride this weekend, just have to kick start it. I'm thinking like others have mentioned that the regulator is bad and is just slightly over charging the battery and killing it after a few months.

I'll keep everyone posted as to what I find out.

Mike


Thanks for the info, yours is the first 04 I've heard of that did, like I said, mine (and others on here) wouldn't. Let us know how it runs this weekend as one thing I've heard as well by those that have tried this and gotten the bike to start was low rpm running was poor. I'm curious too if the PO was the original owner, might be something in the past that makes this one different.

I'll happily take back my statement if I can be proved wrong by a reliable source, and Barra8's lunatic style ramblings are not a reliable source. I know from experience what happens and searching on here proves others have had this experience as well, I'm more curious as to what the difference is between these experiences we all had are.

Mike

  • 123devinzz1

Posted July 17, 2013 - 04:43 PM

#18

Thanks for the info, yours is the first 04 I've heard of that did, like I said, mine (and others on here) wouldn't. Let us know how it runs this weekend as one thing I've heard as well by those that have tried this and gotten the bike to start was low rpm running was poor. I'm curious too if the PO was the original owner, might be something in the past that makes this one different.

I'll happily take back my statement if I can be proved wrong by a reliable source, and Barra8's lunatic style ramblings are not a reliable source. I know from experience what happens and searching on here proves others have had this experience as well, I'm more curious as to what the difference is between these experiences we all had are.

Mike


You are right. I've done alot searches and some say it should work and others say it shouldnt. I was starting to think maybe i wired something up wrong if my bike ran perfect without the battery ( Note that this is with the headlight off if it makes a difference ) Im gona just have a final decision and say that it is possible :thumbsup:

  • Do I Care?

Posted July 17, 2013 - 06:31 PM

#19

Nope and nope. You're wrong, so keep talking.

The more you talk the more you make a fool of yourself. You are just showing how much you don't know... I mean, there is already more than one person saying that theirs runs WITHOUT A BATTERY. And then there is you that claims it doesn't lol. If you knew how to read a diagram you would know how it works. Here is an easy one that I color-coded (not that you will listen).
Posted Image

  • Do I Care?

Posted July 17, 2013 - 06:43 PM

#20

Thanks for the info, yours is the first 04 I've heard of that did, like I said, mine (and others on here) wouldn't. Let us know how it runs this weekend as one thing I've heard as well by those that have tried this and gotten the bike to start was low rpm running was poor. I'm curious too if the PO was the original owner, might be something in the past that makes this one different.

I'll happily take back my statement if I can be proved wrong by a reliable source, and Barra8's lunatic style ramblings are not a reliable source. I know from experience what happens and searching on here proves others have had this experience as well, I'm more curious as to what the difference is between these experiences we all had are.

Mike

First of all- you say that IT WILL NOT RUN WITHOUT THE BATTERY! You are wrong!

Now you say- Thanks for the info, yours is the first 04 I've heard of that did, like I said, mine (and others on here) wouldn't. Let us know how it runs this weekend as one thing I've heard as well by those that have tried this and gotten the bike to start was low rpm running was poor. I'm curious too if the PO was the original owner, might be something in the past that makes this one different.

You can't have it both ways lol. :rolleyes:
If you listened to my ''lunatic style ramblings'' you wouldn't have to look like a goose. :thumbsup:

Enjoy!




 
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