2007 wr450f left side drain bolt



25 replies to this topic
  • 123devinzz1

Posted June 20, 2013 - 02:50 PM

#1

Can anybody tell me what size bolt this is? its stripped and I want to know what size heli coil I should use. Or what size bigger drain bolt i should use.

Thanks!

  • grayracer513

Posted June 20, 2013 - 02:59 PM

#2

That's in the manual. M8x1.25 ISO thread. You will be better off using a Time-Sert than a Heli-Coil on two counts: First, the Time-Sert is better adapted to having the bolt removed and replaced multiple times, and secondly, the design of the insert and the accompanying tooling ensures that the face of the finished hole will be square with the hole itself, so that the copper washer can seal properly.

I don't recommend oversizing that hole. 8mm is nearly identical to 5/16", and the next metric step is 10mm, a little big, IMO. 3/8" is slightly smaller, but the thread choices are 16 (a little coarse) and 24 (just too fine). If things worked out where enlarging the hole was the only practical option for some reason, I'd go with 3/8"x16, however.

  • KennyMc

Posted June 20, 2013 - 04:07 PM

#3

That's in the manual. M8x1.25 ISO thread. [color=#ff0000]You will be better off using a Time-Sert [/color]than a Heli-Coil on two counts: First, the Time-Sert is better adapted to having the bolt removed and replaced multiple times, and secondly, the design of the insert and the accompanying tooling ensures that the face of the finished hole will be square with the hole itself, so that the copper washer can seal properly.


Been there, [color=#ff0000]did that[/color]

  • 123devinzz1

Posted June 21, 2013 - 05:59 PM

#4

I was looking at the time serts and they are very expensive. I was thinking that i would jb weld in the heli coil. I bought the bike with 400km on it from a dealer and it was stripped when I got it. Ive been putting some copper silicone on the bolt head and lightly snugging it up and its worked for the last 9000km but just last oil change you can spin the bolt with your fingers. If using the heli coil I would do the same and lightly snug the bolt. BUT.. What size time sert should I use and what would be the cheapest place/option?

Thanks for the help!

  • GASKICKER

Posted June 24, 2013 - 11:19 AM

#5

I was looking at the time serts and they are very expensive. I was thinking that i would jb weld in the heli coil. I bought the bike with 400km on it from a dealer and it was stripped when I got it. Ive been putting some copper silicone on the bolt head and lightly snugging it up and its worked for the last 9000km but just last oil change you can spin the bolt with your fingers. If using the heli coil I would do the same and lightly snug the bolt. BUT.. What size time sert should I use and what would be the cheapest place/option?

Thanks for the help!

How do you use a helicoil where the tab would be breaking off in the case, as it would be in this case?
Mine is stripped also and the helicoil was my first thought, but I decided to wait and use tin foil on the threads...red neck I know, but it worked (for now)

  • Stealth13

Posted June 24, 2013 - 01:38 PM

#6

Mine was stripped in the same place. We just got a tap and die set and went through the threads and now it's fine again

  • KennyMc

Posted June 24, 2013 - 05:12 PM

#7

internet search is your friend. Most articles I just browsed concluded that the Time-Sert is the way to go. To each his own. Good luck :thumbsup:

  • 123devinzz1

Posted June 25, 2013 - 01:13 PM

#8

How do you use a helicoil where the tab would be breaking off in the case, as it would be in this case?
Mine is stripped also and the helicoil was my first thought, but I decided to wait and use tin foil on the threads...red neck I know, but it worked (for now)


was thinking to gently break it off with a magnetic tipped screw driver or stick a magnet down the dipstick hole at the same time. And like some else said an internet search is your best friend. I found a thread where a guy covered the bolt with oil then with jb weld and put a bit of jb weld in the hole. Once it hardens it leaves decent threads and he said its been fine for 2 years. If it doesnt work il drill and tap it.

  • behive

Posted June 26, 2013 - 03:02 AM

#9

I thought heli-coil was stainless, non magnetic.

  • 123devinzz1

Posted June 26, 2013 - 10:13 AM

#10

I thought heli-coil was stainless, non magnetic.


Ones I picked up are actually perma coils. But ive come up with another idea. with the tool you cant tell how deep you need to be anyways. So I noticed that you can fit 2 inserts on the bolt ( cant do with a time sert ). Heres the plan.. Snap both tabs off before hand. oil up drain bolt. thread both inserts on until seated (without copper washer). Put a healthy dose of permanent locktite on outside insert threads. Thread bolt with inserts on in until lightly seated. When locktite dries unscrew drain, put copper washer on then re-insert and snug up. Does anyone see anything wrong with this idea? I tested the jb weld and it just crumbled :/

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  • grayracer513

Posted June 28, 2013 - 02:42 PM

#11

Have fun with that one. The reason that the tangs are on the lead thread is because the inserts are too big for the holes they thread into. By "pulling" them in by the tang on the lead thread, the insert can compress and thread into place. If you try to "push" them from the top thread, they won't even come close.

I was looking at the time serts and they are very expensive. I was thinking that i would jb weld in the heli coil. ... what would be the cheapest place/option?

Thanks for the help!


This is your $5000 motorcycle here, eh? If you just have to go cheap, start by tapping the hole to 5/16" USS coarse thread and see how that holds up.

  • 123devinzz1

Posted June 28, 2013 - 02:47 PM

#12

Then i shall test this first.

  • 123devinzz1

Posted June 28, 2013 - 03:15 PM

#13

Couldnt find any threads to test on... Can somebody just tell me what size drill bit, tap, and bolt i will need. This bolt size and thread stuff is to much for me. You should know that most of this stuff il have to get out of town or online so going back and forth the hardware store isnt something i can really do. Could i make it fit the same drain thats on the bottom? That way id have 2 magnetic ones.

  • 123devinzz1

Posted July 03, 2013 - 02:36 PM

#14

anyone?

  • aussieklx

Posted July 03, 2013 - 11:18 PM

#15

The casing oil drain bolt on my 04 wr450 was stripped. I too tried to get away with nursing it with thread sealant and fibre washers, but it gave up eventually. In Aussie, we don't have as econimical access to time serts, which agreed is the best option under the circumstances,

I ended up purchasing a correctly sized helicoil set and installed that, I put red loctite on the helicoil and newly cut thread and installed, the hardest part is getting the so called tang off, I used a small piece of tie wire looped over to lassoo the tang and tug. Very tense moments but it worked a treat. Let loctite cure, back flushed engine with kero, short run with oil, dump oil, new oil and filter. Be sure to pack the drill bit and tap with grease. I did this and had minimal to zero swarf make its way into the casing. Time will tell if it holds and doesn't back out on me but I'm happy with the result.

My 2c. By yourself a good torque wrench also lol

  • 123devinzz1

Posted July 04, 2013 - 02:09 PM

#16

The casing oil drain bolt on my 04 wr450 was stripped. I too tried to get away with nursing it with thread sealant and fibre washers, but it gave up eventually. In Aussie, we don't have as econimical access to time serts, which agreed is the best option under the circumstances,

I ended up purchasing a correctly sized helicoil set and installed that, I put red loctite on the helicoil and newly cut thread and installed, the hardest part is getting the so called tang off, I used a small piece of tie wire looped over to lassoo the tang and tug. Very tense moments but it worked a treat. Let loctite cure, back flushed engine with kero, short run with oil, dump oil, new oil and filter. Be sure to pack the drill bit and tap with grease. I did this and had minimal to zero swarf make its way into the casing. Time will tell if it holds and doesn't back out on me but I'm happy with the result.

My 2c. By yourself a good torque wrench also lol


I have a pair of needle nosed pliers that can go through the insert and grab onto it. its also magnetized. I still havent touched the bike. gota change oil in 100km! still no info on drill,tap,bolt sizes.

  • fixitandy

Posted August 15, 2013 - 04:07 AM

#17

Just a side note to this, I also wanted to convert this bolt to magnetic, my young bloke has this toy thingo called sticks & blocks which have tiny magnets in the end of em, brilliant! Drilled out end of bolt press fitted it in with a 24 oz timber handled persuader voila! U can't have too many maggots. ROOSTA out.

  • GASKICKER

Posted August 27, 2013 - 08:35 AM

#18

mine finally stripped with this mornings oil change; called the local dealer, they would helicoil it for $150.



  • 123devinzz1

Posted August 27, 2013 - 12:43 PM

#19

mine finally stripped with this mornings oil change; called the local dealer, they would helicoil it for $150.

 

WOOOO thats a rip if I ever seen one. I got a heli coil kit off ebay for $20 and installed myself in 15mins and now I have about 15 coils left over.



  • GASKICKER

Posted August 27, 2013 - 03:20 PM

#20

WOOOO thats a rip if I ever seen one. I got a heli coil kit off ebay for $20 and installed myself in 15mins and now I have about 15 coils left over.

no joke, the 1 helicoil kit I bought for another vehicle, cost me $30. the dealer said "depending upon how complicated it is, it could take 1 to 1.5 hrs"

I think the job could be done in 5-15 mins






 
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