Magura clutch for the 2012 WR450F



51 replies to this topic
  • GP1K

Posted September 04, 2013 - 04:09 PM

#21

Thanks for the update. Seems odd and I guess I don't really understand Peters email about why they are selling with the 10.5 and not the 9.5. For me I don't really want to buy both parts since like you said the goal was a lighter pull.

 

Well the issue he explained to me is same as he did to you... the 9.5 will be a lighter pull, but if there's not enough free play, the clutch will drag, which is obviously no good. On my bike, the 10.5 had lots of free play, more then recommended so it would have needed shimming anyways. So that's also part of why he felt comfortable sending me the 9.5 instead. IIRC, it still needed to be shimmed a teeny bit, and the free play is right where it should be, approx 1/8". I haven't noticed any clutch drag, and I can actually start my bike in gear some times. (I also have a Shorai battery, that may be helping as well)



  • JDLowrance

Posted September 05, 2013 - 10:49 AM

#22

Well the issue he explained to me is same as he did to you... the 9.5 will be a lighter pull, but if there's not enough free play, the clutch will drag, which is obviously no good. On my bike, the 10.5 had lots of free play, more then recommended so it would have needed shimming anyways. So that's also part of why he felt comfortable sending me the 9.5 instead. IIRC, it still needed to be shimmed a teeny bit, and the free play is right where it should be, approx 1/8". I haven't noticed any clutch drag, and I can actually start my bike in gear some times. (I also have a Shorai battery, that may be helping as well)

 

All good news. Let us know how it goes on the install Mid.

 

Thanks!



  • huero

Posted September 12, 2013 - 07:35 AM

#23

Yeah, I am interested in how your instal goes too.

Huero

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 12, 2013 - 07:50 AM

#24

Yeah, I am interested in how your instal goes too.

Huero


I'll install it and write it up when it shows up.

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 17, 2013 - 10:13 AM

#25

My hydraulic clutch assembly arrived. I'll install it at the first opportunity. Edit.It has the 9.5mm master cylinder.

Question. I didn't realize how intricate and specialized the clutch lever was for these setups. Where am I ever going to find a replacement clutch lever should I need one ?

Thanks

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 17, 2013 - 07:38 PM.


  • JDLowrance

Posted September 17, 2013 - 10:40 AM

#26

My hydraulic clutch assembly arrived. I'll install it at the first opportunity.

Question. I didn't realize how intricate and specialized the clutch lever was for these setups. Where am I ever going to find a replacement clutch lever should I need one ?

Thanks

From Magura.

 

You can find replacements online from various vendors...might be a good idea to buy a spare.



  • woods-rider

Posted September 19, 2013 - 09:05 AM

#27

I'll install it and write it up when it shows up.

 

 

When are we going to get a report and write up?



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 19, 2013 - 03:00 PM

#28

When are we going to get a report and write up?


I hope to put it on before my ride this weekend. Its Thursday night as I write this.

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 20, 2013 - 05:09 PM

#29

Installing it right now... setup is a bit dodgy... need 6mm, 9mm wrenches and a 20+ ml syringe. I'll update in a bit.

  • JDLowrance

Posted September 20, 2013 - 05:50 PM

#30

I thought the Jacks were bled from the factory...

 

Must be the 9.5mm master they put in the kit for you.


Edited by JDLowrance, September 20, 2013 - 05:50 PM.


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  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 20, 2013 - 07:39 PM

#31

I got it installed and I think it works OK. I haven't run it though.

with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in, stationary and not running or warmed up, the first 1/4 turn of the rear wheel has significant clutch drag. After that, it freewheels well with little drag. It seems to be fully engaged with the clutch out. I'm not sure there was much drag ever with the cable clutch mechanism, but my friend tells me his has a lot of drag.

The freeplay and engagement adjustment is finicky and Magura doesn't have an easy means to do the adjustment, though I did develop a couple tricks.

I'm pretty sure I have all the air out. Its possible that there is a tiny bit left in. I'm hoping that riding it will help it work the air out.

I'm not sure the lever effort is much better. I think the action will be more precise though.

The reservoir is almost level with the lever. Unlike the Yamaha front brake master cylinder which has the reservoir level with the brake lever angled significantly down. I'm afraid to run the lever a lot down as it might draw air into the master cylinder.

The lever itself is longer than I though it would be. There is a short lever, but I suspect the effort would be too high.

The lever is also pretty expensive to replace. More than $30. And its not available everywhere.

For me, for a number of reasons, the jury is still out on it. I'll report tomorrow after my ride.

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 20, 2013 - 07:42 PM

#32

I thought the Jacks were bled from the factory...
 
Must be the 9.5mm master they put in the kit for you.


It might have been bled from the factory. I had to crack the line where it attached to the slave cylinder to change the orientation of the line to the cylinder, thus probably letting air in.

The other thing is that in the process of installing it, I had to pull the clutch a few times before the slave was installed. I also had to pull the slave cylinder out manually. All the while not exactly sure how much fluid was in the reservoir and how it was orientated.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 20, 2013 - 07:43 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 20, 2013 - 07:46 PM

#33

Bleeding was a biatch !

The bleeder nipple is too short to really get a hose on it and the width of the flats where you put a wrench on are very narrow. And you need to hold the line fitting while loosening the bleeder valve.

There were no WR specific instructions.

And I can totally see why people say there is a problem with side loads on the slave cylinder if you use the parts supplied.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted September 20, 2013 - 07:54 PM

#34

On my KTM it had a 10.5mm magura clutch.  Pull was stiff the say the least.   Also, the bigger piston pushed so much fluid that the clutch felt like a light switch.   Not good.

 

I ordered a 9.5mm clutch master cylinder and put on the midwest mountain engineering lever.    HUGE difference.   

 

http://midwestme.com...roductinfo.html

 

Maybe this would help on the yamaha.  But then again, I don't really know how bad the yamaha pull is.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 20, 2013 - 08:40 PM

#35

My Magura kit already has a 9.5mm master cylinder.

I don't find the pull on the WR450 cable clutch to be be that bad, though it is a bit vague. I have very big, strong hands.

That doesn't mean I wouldn't love a 2 finger clutch with good feel.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 20, 2013 - 08:41 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 21, 2013 - 03:55 AM

#36

One more thing. The capacitor mount didn't work with the Magura slave cylinder holder. So I relocated the capacitor to under the seat on my bike. I have the ECM there too. I can do this because I have removed the electric start, battery, relays, etc. I didn't have to change any wiring to do this. The stock harness allows it.

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 22, 2013 - 11:43 AM

#37

I did a technical 30 mile trail ride with the Magura yesterday. The jury is still out as far as I am concerned.

I didn't have any problems with it, but it doesn't disengage the clutch 100%. It "chunks" a bit when you put it in gear, though there was no problem pushing the bike around with the engine running in gear with the clutch in.

There was no problem with slippage.


I'm not sure the lever pull is any lighter. The feel is much more precise though. I think the Magura lever has a longer throw than the stock cable lever.

I'm not sure its a 2 finger clutch, but I can operate it with 2 fingers.

I'm not sure what else to say.

  • Ride-n-Hard

Posted September 22, 2013 - 12:31 PM

#38

Seems kind of odd if the clutch has a longer throw and if it has a small amount of free play then it should theorically fully disengage.

If you get a minute and can measure the throw distance I would do the same just to compair.

My stock bike clunks when I put it in gear as well. It also rolls good with the clutch in.

Glad it worked though.

Doug

Edited by Ride-n-Hard, September 22, 2013 - 12:31 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 05, 2013 - 09:24 PM

#39

I'm getting 0.417" of travel at the slave cylinder.

I've now got it adjusted so that the clutch arm can move backwards about 1mm before the slave cylinder is fully extended. There was a bit more "back travel" than that on my last ride. I'm adjusting the slave cylinder position by stacking washers between it and the mount.

How much travel is there from the "hard point" to the end of the pull with the cable clutch ?

  • JDLowrance

Posted October 06, 2013 - 06:08 AM

#40

I did a technical 30 mile trail ride with the Magura yesterday. The jury is still out as far as I am concerned.

I didn't have any problems with it, but it doesn't disengage the clutch 100%. It "chunks" a bit when you put it in gear, though there was no problem pushing the bike around with the engine running in gear with the clutch in.

There was no problem with slippage.


I'm not sure the lever pull is any lighter. The feel is much more precise though. I think the Magura lever has a longer throw than the stock cable lever.

I'm not sure its a 2 finger clutch, but I can operate it with 2 fingers.

I'm not sure what else to say.

 

The stock cable set-up is a 2 finger clutch, I've got no issues riding with 2 fingers all day long....the whole idea behind going Magura was to get a 1 finger clutch.  Sounds like it's no better than the stock in this regard....bummer.






 
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