Starting In Gear


8 replies to this topic
  • bdub875c

Posted May 28, 2013 - 08:55 AM

#1

I am new to four strokes. Picked up a nice 2008 YZ 450. My question is if it is possible to start this bike in gear? I am used to getting killer dead engine starts on my YZ 250. Is there a solution or should I prepare for the worst?

  • grayracer513

Posted May 28, 2013 - 09:05 AM

#2

The worst, probably. The bike does not care to start with the trans engaged because there is usually too much clutch drag to allow it to spin freely enough to light up. The clutch has to be in near perfect condition to reduce the drag enough to make starting in gear work very well.

  • Yzflier977

Posted May 29, 2013 - 03:39 PM

#3

I have a 2009 450 and it's hit or miss with the starting in gear. I have found that if I use the hot start and give the throttle a very small blip and using a moderate, but steady, kick it'll usually fire in a couple kicks. I also came from the 2 stroke world and at first I had a terrible time starting the 450. I tried to kick it like a 2 stroke, a fast kick doesn't work on a big 4 stroke. A slow to moderate, steady kick is the way to go. And if you can find TDC it makes life that much easier.

  • ekulb14

Posted May 29, 2013 - 05:18 PM

#4

Same as ^, if you pull the hot start and kick a lil it may start but its just easier to take the 5 sec and click into neutral. If its a racing concern get a auto clutch.

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  • bdub875c

Posted May 29, 2013 - 06:05 PM

#5

I am more concerned with dead engine desert starts not so much when you get going. Seems like a mid pack start is to be expected. Thanks for the replies.

  • Donjholt

Posted May 29, 2013 - 06:20 PM

#6

So lost with this one

  • f150jokerstyle

Posted May 29, 2013 - 08:35 PM

#7

When I was running a normal clutch with a barnett basket I never had anything less than a single kick on a dead engine start or a performance less than about 6th overall on the bomb. Now that i'm running a rekluse more of the same except I think my worst bomb result has been 3rd :D

I wish I had some advice for you but my bike has always started easily when warmed up.(not hot) What I do is the line that starts before me I let my bike idle some while they are all warming up their bikes waiting for the banner to rise. Then I set up as if I were starting on their line and basically do a dry run off of their banner drop. pull my bike up to the line and shut her off. At the 2 min mark start her up and warm up again not to aggressively. Banner goes up I kill it kick the bike over until the kicker gets hard at the top of the kicker stroke some people refer to this as "TDC" banner drops and away I go. Finding "TDC" for a lack of a better way of putting it is the only way I start my bike. It just works better for me. If I depend on the auto decompress system It is a multi kick job.

FYI when I was running a yz250 I was mid to back of the pack. Also unless your a vet or older, intermediate, or expert don't race the national hare and hounds heading out your way the next few months. I don't need any one els passing me after the bomb :doh:

  • bdub875c

Posted May 29, 2013 - 09:05 PM

#8

Haha, that is funny. I race over 40 AM, not sure how that translates to the NHNH Series.

  • grayracer513

Posted May 30, 2013 - 06:37 AM

#9

My '06 normally gets me going pretty quickly even in neutral; one kick and gone, but it gets stage fright now and then. That's racing.

First thing is just make sure it starts as well as possible by tuning the idle circuit of the carb as well as possible for that purpose. If you are one of those who likes to fatten up the pilot because you just have to get rid of all traces of decel popping, or because you think it's an easy way to make up for a poorly tuned accelerator pump or needle, you'll have trouble with starting.

There is one more thing you might try. Due to a confusion on the part of a parts guy who one of my sponsors was working with, I ended up with a clutch kit for a YFZ450 quad instead of a YZ450F. I run a Rekluse, so I didn't need (couldn't use) the steels that came with it, but I noticed that the friction plates were different. The top and bottom plates in the stack were the correct 5TA-16321-00-00's, but the remainder were 5VY-16321-00-00's, the plates used in an R1. After Rekluse said they thought the clutch should still work OK as to how and when it engages, I decided to try it. I don't know for certain whether the R1 plates made the difference, or the fact that the whole plate set including the Rekluse steels was new was more important, or both, but the clutch releases very cleanly now. Finding neutral at idle is much easier, and it will actually start in gear "most" of the time, if the clutch is warmed up, but not hot. Something to consider.





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