Edited by myk 777, May 22, 2013 - 03:45 PM.
questions on 07 wr450 f
Posted May 22, 2013 - 03:29 PM
Posted May 22, 2013 - 04:03 PM
Posted May 22, 2013 - 04:12 PM
Posted May 22, 2013 - 05:37 PM
This is a high maintenance bike compared to a two stroke; don't guess.
Edited by Krannie, May 22, 2013 - 05:38 PM.
Posted May 24, 2013 - 10:14 AM
Many of the manuals on the Euro site (first link) can be printed, but none of the ones from the Aussie site can. They are all also tri or quadralingual. OTOH, they're free and readily available.
The bike is a dry sump lube system, wherein the oil is kept separated from the engine itself until it's pumped to the lube points through the system. As it drains back to the crankcase sump, it's picked up by a second faster pump and returned to the storage volume, so the sump stays "dry" in operation. More info here: http://www.thumperta...903#post5221903
Meanwhile, here's a summary of the oil change procedure (for a YZ450, it's the same as yours): http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=852961
A common failing of engine oils used in motorcycles that share their engine oil with the transmission is loss of viscosity through shear forces applied by the transmission. The additives that make a multi-grade oil like a 10w-40 able to behave like the heavier grade when hot can be easily and very quickly destroyed by use in a transmission if they are not the more expensive, stronger ones used in multi-grade gear oils. There is a surprising number of otherwise excellent engine oils that will suffer from this shortcoming because the blenders of the product didn't intend for them to be used for bikes, and didn't spend the money on the more costly additives. Even some commercial grade (read "diesel" or "truck") oils will collapse under such use. The number of motorcycle specific and C grade oils that fail this way is diminishing, but weaker ones do still exist, and the evidence of the viscosity loss is undetectable without test equipment. If you are running such an oil, that could explain some of the additional noise you heard when the engine was hot.
To avoid the problem, use an oil that you know works from lab tests, trusted recommendations, or your own experience with testing samples of your own used oil. You'll be more likely to catch a good one if you use premium quality motorcycle specific oils or top grade commercial oils. Refer to the manual itself for other recommendations.