Trying to make sense of the YZ426 lighting threads...


22 replies to this topic
  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 01, 2013 - 09:13 AM

#1

Hey guys, Ive been cruising these threads for a while now toying with the idea of lighting my YZ426. Ive aquired a few components and getting ready to go at it now. I have come up with a 01 WR426 stator/rotor and a AC regulator from a 02 Wr426. The regulator (not a rectifier) correct me if Im wrong will manage the AC output from the lighting side of the stator. It is a 2 wire regulator with a blue and a black lead. I don't mean to be spoon fed but discusion is what the forums are about right? Id like to mod this system to run a DC lighting circuit on my 2000 YZ426. Im unsure if I can run a head and tail AC in the meantime while I gather the street legal part then switch it over to DC externally with out have to pull the stator again.

Also, if Id snip the pink, ground the harness connector end, unsolder the internal stator end, unsolder the copper wire at the stator, reattach the pink to this copper wire, would the (new) pink coming from the stator now serve as the floated ground and the yellow serves as the supply side for the floated DC circuit? Appreciate the input!

  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 01, 2013 - 03:14 PM

#2

I could ground the lighting circuit externally to the frame and run it through my ac regulator in the meantime correct? Then easily float it through a rectifier and battery later for a DC conversion...?

  • YZ426fdesertrat

Posted May 02, 2013 - 06:42 PM

#3

You will need to make sure that the ac power going to the Cdi is still grounded to the chassis and the dc floating ground is isolated from each other. But yes you can do that after the fact. On a side note the flywheel and stator is quite accessible.

  • peaceofwork

Posted May 02, 2013 - 10:40 PM

#4

will floating the ground be hard on the stator- like make it short life?

  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 05, 2013 - 08:54 AM

#5

Alright, so I clipped the pink wire as close to the pile of epoxy as posible to prevent any shorts etc. (still not sure what the pink was for) I then unsoldered the copper ground wire and soldered the pink and copper together and covered with heat shrink.

Stator Mod 004b.JPG

  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 05, 2013 - 09:02 AM

#6

I clipped the pink in half up near the main connector, and will be grounding the connector side that will still head on to the CDI. The remaining half of the pink wire connected to the stator will now serve as the lighting ground. To run my headlamp right now on AC I will be frame grounding it as well. I will be running the yellow lighting wire through a 02 WR426 AC regulator. I believe I simply attach the yellow to one side of the regulator and run the other wire on the regulator to a bulb and then ground the other side of the bulb. How messed up is this plan or am I on target?

Stator Mod 008B.JPG

  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 05, 2013 - 12:09 PM

#7

will floating the ground be hard on the stator- like make it short life?


Not at all.

  • peaceofwork

Posted May 05, 2013 - 06:18 PM

#8

i asked because i heard that it leaves the stator putting out maximum output constantly which would burn it out soon.I have a new wr 400 stator that i am going to use, i cant wait to get rid of that big baja desighns monstrosity off the side of my bike but i,m just cautious.

  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 06, 2013 - 12:00 PM

#9

I havent heard that. I can't see how the output of the stator can be altered by anything other than rotor rpm providing all components are in good working order. I may be wrong but the output will be slightly erratic and vary with engine speed, but when run through a regulator it is then "tamed" to constant 12-14v typically. The excess is bled off to ground so in essence the stator is still generating the maximum current for rpm anyway. There for why would it shorten its life?

Edited by GottaHangOn, May 06, 2013 - 12:09 PM.


  • peaceofwork

Posted May 11, 2013 - 01:46 PM

#10

makes sense to me, so is your system working now?

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  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 13, 2013 - 06:33 PM

#11

I have installed the stator and flywheel. The ignition system is working flawlessly.

I have tucked my power leads under the tank for the time being. I will be continueing the lighting project after a long over due 2 week trail riding adventure.

  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 13, 2013 - 06:35 PM

#12

Here is an image of the YZ flywheel and WR "heavy" flywheel on the scale to put solid fact that question. The difference, 7.6 ounces.

Attached Thumbnails

  • weighted flywheel swap.JPG

Edited by GottaHangOn, May 13, 2013 - 06:36 PM.


  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 13, 2013 - 06:56 PM

#13

THE 2001 WR426 "heavy" flywheel. 7.6 oz heavier than the YZ flywheel. Not exactly the YZ buzz killer some might assume.
Posted Image

The original 2000 YZ426 flywheel.
Posted Image

  • GottaHangOn

Posted May 13, 2013 - 07:06 PM

#14

The pink lead at the connector coming from the cdi is now grounded at the threaded boss on the cylinder made available when I deleted the manual de-compression system. The floating ground will be the black coiled lead. Notice the yellow lighting lead also. Both handy for the soon to be added lights.
Posted Image


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

  • GottaHangOn

Posted June 03, 2013 - 02:07 PM

#15

So I installed the Baja Designs full meal deal on the YZ. I still have the ground floated and just connected the two wires from the stator directly to the two wires on the B.D. harness. On a one wire WR setup the yellow wire would have connected to the positive lead on the B.D. harness and the other wire on the B.D. harness would be frame grounded. I didnt frame ground the stator or B.D. ground wire due to my floating the ground.

  • GottaHangOn

Posted June 03, 2013 - 02:12 PM

#16

Everything works fantastic, however the B.D. battery pack doesnt seem to be charging. Was floating the ground infact needed when running the B.D. kit due to their circuitry or should I tag the grounds back to the frame to allow charging.

I guess Im asking could the floating ground be inhibiting the charging of the battery? The kill function works great on the multi switch as well. I put a full 7 or 8 hour ride on this system Saturday.

  • grayracer513

Posted June 03, 2013 - 02:21 PM

#17

Did you add a voltage regulator/rectifier?

  • GottaHangOn

Posted June 03, 2013 - 08:42 PM

#18

Did you add a voltage regulator/rectifier?


I did not as I believe the BD kit has a built in reg/rect in the head unit. I do have a OE reg from the WR but that seemed redundant. Am I wrong?

  • grayracer513

Posted June 04, 2013 - 06:17 AM

#19

It would be redundant if you do actually already have one. The stator produces AC current, which will not charge a battery (in fact, it will ruin one in short order). Be sure that you have DC voltage going to the battery, not AC.

  • GottaHangOn

Posted June 04, 2013 - 10:07 AM

#20

It would be redundant if you do actually already have one. The stator produces AC current, which will not charge a battery (in fact, it will ruin one in short order). Be sure that you have DC voltage going to the battery, not AC.


No sir I did not install the OE unit. the BD harness is connected directly to the lighting coil.





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