12/13 WR450 Comp ECU Maps?



42 replies to this topic
  • stewart_frank

Posted June 11, 2013 - 06:23 AM

#21

Ok so I got to do some testing with different maps and this is what I found. Where I ride here in east TX the trails are single track more flowing then tight and your pretty much always in a turn, very little straight-aways. I’ve done the GYRT ECU and throttle screw and opened up the air box, and FMF Core pipe. I first tried it with the GYRT ECU set at all 0, uncorked with the FMF core pipe. If I were riding open trails or a west Texas style hare scramble this map would work great but not slower technical stuff. This set up pulls hard everywhere and is hard to control in slower technical stuff. Next I tried the GYRT FMF map and it seemed to have smoother power delivery to me but it’s still too much for my type of riding. I then tried a map I found on here that RSWR450F posted. It was map 9 of Phil Andrew set up for longer power and less hit down low. This map for me worked great! It took the snap away down low where it was jerking my arms out and making it hard to negotiate technical trail. Now it’s smooth down low but still has the punch mid to top for when the trail opens up. I didn’t change to another map this day because I was having too much fun with this one!. I going to try some of the other maps on at some time when I get the chance to ride again and I’ll post the results.

  • 270winchester

Posted June 11, 2013 - 02:58 PM

#22

Ok so I got to do some testing with different maps and this is what I found. Where I ride here in east TX the trails are single track more flowing then tight and your pretty much always in a turn, very little straight-aways. I’ve done the GYRT ECU and throttle screw and opened up the air box, and FMF Core pipe. I first tried it with the GYRT ECU set at all 0, uncorked with the FMF core pipe. If I were riding open trails or a west Texas style hare scramble this map would work great but not slower technical stuff. This set up pulls hard everywhere and is hard to control in slower technical stuff. Next I tried the GYRT FMF map and it seemed to have smoother power delivery to me but it’s still too much for my type of riding. I then tried a map I found on here that RSWR450F posted. It was map 9 of Phil Andrew set up for longer power and less hit down low. This map for me worked great! It took the snap away down low where it was jerking my arms out and making it hard to negotiate technical trail. Now it’s smooth down low but still has the punch mid to top for when the trail opens up. I didn’t change to another map this day because I was having too much fun with this one!. I going to try some of the other maps on at some time when I get the chance to ride again and I’ll post the results.


thanks for info. I may try this one.

  • thirdcoaster

Posted August 03, 2013 - 02:22 PM

#23

I just picked up a leftover '12 model this week. Installed ECM, removed air box baffle & throttle limit screw, and installed Q4 Hex muffler on the stock header. Tuned the ECM with Phil Andrew #9 map but added +1 fuel at high rpm, and was very pleased. The bike only has about 40 miles of fast trail riding on it, so not broken in yet. Weather conditions 98*F, high humidity, sea level. I will monitor fuel mileage next time out.

I had initially used the FMF map, and the bike was very lean and kinda hard to start. Starting with #9 map was uneventful but that could be due to the motor loosening up a bit. Overall, I am thrilled with the WR. It's probably going to be the least-altered bike I have ever owned...it just works!

Edited by thirdcoaster, August 03, 2013 - 02:29 PM.


  • ryan7

Posted August 24, 2013 - 04:56 AM

#24

I'm trying to understand all this, just want to see if I am getting it right. I am thinking that a map like #9 which looks like a lot of high + numbers in the fuel side is richening it right up which is making the bike more manageable but probably using a lot more fuel so with the standard fuel tank on might not be a good idea for a long ride.

  • Ride-n-Hard

Posted August 24, 2013 - 11:23 AM

#25

Yes, a "+" on the fuel side is making the bike richer and yes your fuel mileage will go down. I'm not sure if its making the bike "more manageable" but will keep you from running lean and burning it up. I ran more positive numbers fore now the first 4 or so hours and after looking at the plug it was running rich. But since the bike was new I wanted to break it in first. My last ride which was today I have the fuel settings closer to the +1's and +2's and it ran good as well as I did get better mileage. in my opinion, start rich, then back off from there.

  • ryan7

Posted August 25, 2013 - 01:20 AM

#26

Thanks mate, I think I get it now, what I was refering to as managable was the guys prefering the #9 map for single track as it doesnt pull too hard which seemed backwards to me, I was thinking higher +numbers means faster but thats not right.I'm coming from an 09 wr450 which was jetted rich and I got terrible milage but was great to ride. I love all this info and the fact that I can now just punch in a different map and get different results without having to worry about jetting. I will have my powercore 4 pipe tomorrow so let the games begin.

  • auscanvet

Posted August 25, 2013 - 01:45 PM

#27

So a map with all zeros is still fairly aggressive, especially down low?? No one has posted any maps for longer adventure riding to get mileage up??

  • Ride-n-Hard

Posted August 25, 2013 - 02:41 PM

#28

On that gytr power tuner page I'm now using the mid map or the first map for the stock head and exhaust. However I do have the "pee shooter" insert removed. We're i have been riding it is single track that is basically going up and down the side of a mountain. The route weaves up and down. I'm finding that while the pull is smooth and lineear and doesn't really have any "hit" top end, it could be a little more agressive climbing the steeper up hill sections but with out the hit still. Almost like the mid range needs to come in sooner.

If you look at all 3 of those maps, it appears that the more aggressive timing will have more of a positive number while the mild stuff is more negative. I've tried different ignition timings while leaving the fuel in the "+" range because the bike is new, it seemed to take alot of extreme numbers to really feel a big difference. I think that was because the bike was still rich.

This is all based on my interpretation of the descriptions of those maps and what they are using for the ignition numbers.

I'm looking at the numbers only from lower left to upper right since every thing out side those are just "blending" outwards from there to smooth thing out.

There is a u tube video that explains how the power programmer works and all these numbers blend together.

  • pandt

Posted June 09, 2014 - 06:42 PM

#29

Does any one have map for the RS4 yoshimura exhaust ?



  • revelc

Posted August 21, 2014 - 05:47 PM

#30

We need a sticky for stock trim maps, bolt on maps, and BBK maps.


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  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 21, 2014 - 06:18 PM

#31

Has anybody worked out a custom map for tight, rocky, multi stepped singletrack? I was in Moab last week and the FMF exhaust map i was running was no bueno. A lot of the trails were 5 mph trails with multi level stair steps and this bike is a beast to manage at that speed. The FMF map is too agressive when going slow (at least for me) and needing to delicately add power to take the weight off the front, etc.

My bike has airbox mod, comp ECU and FMF Can only (stock head pipe)

The bike is fine in the desert or on 2 tracks with the FMF map, just need something now for the technical stuff. The majority of the published maps seem to be for a stock exhaust. I guess I could interprolate between the two???

what say you experts?

thx

 

 

I'll bet you $20 that gearing it down would make it perfect.  I run 12/51 and the stock (all zeros) comp ECU map (so far) in conditions like that.  It works perfectly.  Billy goat like on the steep stuff and you can tip toe through the technical stuff.   And if you run faster than tip toe, you get more throttle response and 2nd is more usable too.

 

It also helps to richen the idle by setting C1 with a FI Diagnostic tool.  


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, August 21, 2014 - 06:20 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 21, 2014 - 06:25 PM

#32

On that gytr power tuner page I'm now using the mid map or the first map for the stock head and exhaust. However I do have the "pee shooter" insert removed. We're i have been riding it is single track that is basically going up and down the side of a mountain. The route weaves up and down. I'm finding that while the pull is smooth and lineear and doesn't really have any "hit" top end, it could be a little more agressive climbing the steeper up hill sections but with out the hit still. Almost like the mid range needs to come in sooner.

 

I do a lot of this type of single track riding.  Up one side, over the or along the ridge, down into the valley, along the creek for a bit, back up... up, down, up down.   After one ride my GPS showed 12,000 feet of elevation change. 

 

I don't find my WR has too much power in these conditions either.   People talk about it being a beast, but I think its just right and I'm beginning to look for more.  I'd actually like a bit of hit.

 

Having said that, I think you are giving something up running the stock exhaust with the pea shooter removed.  I bet you'd see a nice boost in performance with an FMF Q4 muffler.   It really woke my bike up.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, August 21, 2014 - 06:39 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 21, 2014 - 06:36 PM

#33

Ok so I got to do some testing with different maps and this is what I found. Where I ride here in east TX the trails are single track more flowing then tight and your pretty much always in a turn, very little straight-aways. I’ve done the GYRT ECU and throttle screw and opened up the air box, and FMF Core pipe. I first tried it with the GYRT ECU set at all 0, uncorked with the FMF core pipe. If I were riding open trails or a west Texas style hare scramble this map would work great but not slower technical stuff. This set up pulls hard everywhere and is hard to control in slower technical stuff.

 

I love the stock map and have only just started playing around with other maps.  I have a couple tips for you.

 

1) You'll get used to the power and develop skills to modulate it.  Once you do, that strong bottom end becomes your friend.

 

2) Regear.  I love 12/51 in tight technical stuff.  You could go even lower... 12/52 or even 12/54.   People talk about how well the old Honda thumpers lugged.  They were geared very low overall.

 

3) It takes a while to learn how to ride a WR.  Its like dancing with a strong, athletic woman.  A gentle touch doesn't do it.  You need to be a bit more forceful and aggressive.   Once you get on to that and get over the fear of using the power, its a great bike. 

 

4) A moderate amount of speed is your friend.  The 2012+ WR450F isn't really a tractor.   It pulls hard, it kind of lugs, but what it really wants to do is run.   If you go into technical sections with the engine ticking over at idle speeds expecting to lug over obstacles, you are going to have trouble.  If you go in at about 1/4 throttle and use the clutch and blip the throttle for obstacles, its very good in technical stuff.  Really good, actually.  Momentum is your friend.

 

I'm mentioning all this in the map thread because I fear that some of the issues people are trying to address with maps is really better addressed with gearing, more riding time, changes to riding style, etc.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Edit: 12/51 in 1st gear at idle (2000 RPM on my GYTR programmer) with 140 x 18 rear tire on hard ground = 6 MPH on my GPS.   That is the same speed as a KDX220 with stock gearing.  My bike stock had 14/50 and the idle was set to about 2300 RPM.  It was going over 8 MPH at idle and by the time you used a bit of throttle you were doing 15 MPH.  Even my vet expert friend found it a handful.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, August 21, 2014 - 06:55 PM.


  • revelc

Posted August 23, 2014 - 03:42 AM

#34

Ok so I got to do some testing with different maps and this is what I found. Where I ride here in east TX the trails are single track more flowing then tight and your pretty much always in a turn, very little straight-aways. I’ve done the GYRT ECU and throttle screw and opened up the air box, and FMF Core pipe. I first tried it with the GYRT ECU set at all 0, uncorked with the FMF core pipe. If I were riding open trails or a west Texas style hare scramble this map would work great but not slower technical stuff. This set up pulls hard everywhere and is hard to control in slower technical stuff. Next I tried the GYRT FMF map and it seemed to have smoother power delivery to me but it’s still too much for my type of riding. I then tried a map I found on here that RSWR450F posted. It was map 9 of Phil Andrew set up for longer power and less hit down low. This map for me worked great! It took the snap away down low where it was jerking my arms out and making it hard to negotiate technical trail. Now it’s smooth down low but still has the punch mid to top for when the trail opens up. I didn’t change to another map this day because I was having too much fun with this one!. I going to try some of the other maps on at some time when I get the chance to ride again and I’ll post the results.


Are you talking about Barnwell? I just rode there last week.


2014 WRR R.I.Pieces
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  • mebgardner

Posted August 23, 2014 - 06:26 AM

#35

I'm more than a little surprised that no one has mentioned the good "map" threads, for this cycle, on this website.

 

Map thread here:

 

http://www.thumperta...1-wr-maps-only/



  • revelc

Posted August 30, 2014 - 04:25 AM

#36

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1409401424.635285.jpg

Here is a few that I haven't tried.
I've been sticking with the Aussie map. Although after I put on the new silencer it's popping at WOT.

Going to clean my filter then start richening up the map.


2014 WRR R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F ECU, GYTR tuner, Yoshi RS4, MSR rad guards, Cycra Pros, and a growing wish list...

  • stewart_frank

Posted September 03, 2014 - 01:26 PM

#37

Are you talking about Barnwell? I just rode there last week.


2014 WRR R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F ECU, GYTR tuner, Yoshi RS4, MSR rad guards, Cycra Pros, and a growing wish list...

Sorry been away for a while, No it was at Cycleland in Nacogdoches.

 

Stewart



  • revelc

Posted September 03, 2014 - 01:42 PM

#38

Sorry been away for a while, No it was at Cycleland in Nacogdoches.

Stewart


Have you ever been?
I go almost every Sunday if you'd like to meet up. I have to warn you though, that place eats bikes.


2014 WRR R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F ECU, GYTR tuner, Yoshi RS4, MSR rad guards, Cycra Pros, and a growing wish list...

  • GP1K

Posted September 03, 2014 - 02:14 PM

#39

I'm trying to understand all this, just want to see if I am getting it right. I am thinking that a map like #9 which looks like a lot of high + numbers in the fuel side is richening it right up which is making the bike more manageable but probably using a lot more fuel so with the standard fuel tank on might not be a good idea for a long ride.

 

You are correct. When I first got my bike I ran a map like that, with a lot of + on the fuel side. Which does richen it up, make it more manageable, and definitely uses more fuel. I had to peel off a couple rides and putt back to the staging area on fire roads as my fuel light came on at like 40 miles and I didn't feel like finding out just how far it would go with the light on. So I put an IMS 3.0 gallon tank on and stopped worrying about it.

 

As I got used to the bike, I started reducing the fuel and adding a bit more ignition. Now it's a little more snappy off the bottom, but not a bunch, still manageable, and gets better mileage.

 

If you look at mebgardner's link, that thread has all those maps and more. On page 2 is vlxjim's map, and mine was pretty close to that. I've loaded his map in my GYTR thingy to test, but not my bike yet.



  • GP1K

Posted September 03, 2014 - 02:35 PM

#40



 

I love the stock map and have only just started playing around with other maps.  I have a couple tips for you.

 

 

You'd be about the only one that loves the stock map.

 

 

2) Regear.  I love 12/51 in tight technical stuff.  You could go even lower... 12/52 or even 12/54.   People talk about how well the old Honda thumpers lugged.  They were geared very low overall.

 

 

That's crazy low gearing, learn how to use your clutch instead. Old Hondas were totally different beasts than any modern thumper, let alone the new FI WRs. Apples and oranges. BTW stock gearing on a XR250R is 13/48... taller than a WR is stock. XR400s were even taller at 15/45. That doesn't take internal ratios into account, but those bikes were not geared super low. The power delivery of the engines was just way different.

 

 

 

I'm mentioning all this in the map thread because I fear that some of the issues people are trying to address with maps is really better addressed with gearing, more riding time, changes to riding style, etc.

 

 

Except you have it TOTALLY backwards. Some people (namely you) are trying to address issues with gearing and cams that are really better addressed with FI tuning, more riding time, and changes to riding style.

 

Seriously, stop giving out advice on subjects you clearly know nothing about. You've railed against the whole FI tuning thing, and now you're piping in with advice on it? Do us all a favor and just stop.

 

 

 

Edit: 12/51 in 1st gear at idle (2000 RPM on my GYTR programmer) with 140 x 18 rear tire on hard ground = 6 MPH on my GPS.   That is the same speed as a KDX220 with stock gearing.  My bike stock had 14/50 and the idle was set to about 2300 RPM.  It was going over 8 MPH at idle and by the time you used a bit of throttle you were doing 15 MPH.  Even my vet expert friend found it a handful.

 

 

And that info is useful or relevant how exactly? Do WR450s and KDX220s have the same engine configuration, same power deliver and behavior? No, they do not, they are totally different beasts. What speed each is idling in 1st gear is completely useless information. I'm sure I could gear my KTM and WR to idle in 1st at the same speed... what would that prove? They'd still act way different out on the trail.






 
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