new rims & spoke lacing

6 replies to this topic
  • hempking

Posted November 23, 2001 - 03:49 AM


How hard is it to buy a new set of rims and lace them to your hubs in terms of getting the wheel true?

  • Boit

Posted November 23, 2001 - 04:45 AM


Check out this site.

  • Roostie_1

Posted November 23, 2001 - 07:39 AM


I laced up a rear rim once. I did it succesfully, but it was ackward, tricky, frustrating, difficult and very time consuming. I would take it to a shop next time.

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  • teamtoxic

Posted November 23, 2001 - 03:15 PM


<font color="navy">I blew my hub earlier this year and had to lace in a new hub. It was somewhat frustrating getting the pattern correct, however it only took approx. 2 1/2 hours with myself and my Dad working on it.
I took digital pics before I took the wheel apart, just in case. I also labeled each hole in the rim and its corresponding hole in the new hub.(with a black marker, it rubs off afterwards) It proved to be ~WAY~ easier than I thought it would be.
Truing the wheel is the most difficult part. I'll leave the explaining to the website that Boit left. Mine is trued excellently, probably more precise than stock.

I think you should give it a shot, just be meticulous and stay calm. If worse comes to worse, you can take it to the shop, but they'll probably tear your wallet up real good.

  • Chris_Slade

Posted November 23, 2001 - 09:03 PM


COnsidering that I built many bicycle wheels, as I raced them, a motorcycle wheel is almost, well, simple. There is no cross pattern to do! I still can't quite get it in true yet, as they are not as compliant, but in time I hope.
I always found just working on one area of the wheel at a time to get out hop and side to side worked great, THEN I would tighten each spoke the SAME AMOUNT until the wheel was tight. Never had a problem.
I even used to do my own special patterns...twisted spokes, looks awesome, but not quite motorcycle worthy. :)

  • BMC1

Posted November 23, 2001 - 11:34 PM


It's no big deal if you know how. I have laced a couple and here is what I learned:

Don't pull all the old spokes from the hub until you get the idea what goes over the top where. If you are installing new spokes (good idea) cut the old ones somewhere around the middle but on the other side of where they "x"- toss old rim, place hub with cut spokes still in hub inside new rim, remove one spoke at a time and replace with a new one laced thru new rim until you can see the pattern. Then remove all and keep going. Flip over do same. Only loosely tightening them. If you do something wrong it will be noticable on the first 4-6.

Then start tightening them all down the same distance using the threaded part of spoke sticking out of the top of nipples as a guide.(You will see a thread or two out the top of all the nipples when getting close)-Just keep what threads showing all the same. Since a new rim is perfectly round they will tighten in even and won't pull out of wack if you stay light on the torque.

Then put rim on bike and tighten them all alittle at a time using a screwdriver resting on the swingarm pointed at the rim area as a reference for roundness. This will get you pretty darn close, and if you take your time on the last part and use your ear with the ting tuning fork method of tightening, you will have done what a shop will and save the cash.

If anything you will have learned something about your bike for the future. If you goof it up you can still take it to a shop and have them fine tune it for cheaper. Expected time should be 1 hr. Ready set go....

  • BMC1

Posted November 23, 2001 - 11:40 PM


Oh yea... you can cut the old spokes easy and quick with either a die grinder or bolt cutters. You should go with the heavy duty bulldog spokes from whitebrothers. But you will have to drill out your old hubs spoke holes a little bit... but it's worth it.

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