What are you guys running for brake light switches?


13 replies to this topic
  • SurfaceToAir

Posted April 18, 2013 - 10:06 PM

#1

I just got a DRC kit that I am going to hook up. It comes with brake light switches that are the straight bolt kind, with the wire fittings at the top of the bolt. They are not ideal, especially for the front brake master. The kit is this one:
http://www.drcproduc...5-70/index.html

That DRC website lists a banjo fitting switch that may work well for both front and rear:
Posted Image

What are you guys running?

thanks!
Dustin

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted April 19, 2013 - 05:06 AM

#2

http://www.bajadesig...emNumber=120104

  • GlennR

Posted April 19, 2013 - 05:30 AM

#3

I didn't see the Banjo switch on their site. How much is it? I got the standard type for my front brake & there isn't enough clearance under the hand guard for it to fit correctly.

  • SurfaceToAir

Posted April 19, 2013 - 07:33 AM

#4

@GlennR- I found one here: http://www.langstonr...tyle_Oil_Pr.htm

Looking at that one though, I dont think it will work well for the front after all, due to the big pumpkin.. :/

  • MaxPower

Posted April 19, 2013 - 02:12 PM

#5

I like that banjo switch. That would work well for the rear also. On my 04 the wires exit the bolt at the top and come too close to the exhaust

  • DuncR6

Posted April 19, 2013 - 04:35 PM

#6

I just got a DRC kit that I am going to hook up. It comes with brake light switches that are the straight bolt kind, with the wire fittings at the top of the bolt. They are not ideal, especially for the front brake master. The kit is this one:
http://www.drcproduc...5-70/index.html

That DRC website lists a banjo fitting switch that may work well for both front and rear:

The picture isn't really helping my brain...how does that work in conjunction with the brake line? It looks like there isn't room on the fitting for the brake line to also fit but logic tells me it has to. Do you have any better pictures showing brakes lines and the switch on the fitting?

  • SurfaceToAir

Posted April 22, 2013 - 11:11 AM

#7

I think it will work on the rear, though so will the cheaper, easier to acquire ones.
On the front, I am also not so sure. The washer looks kind of thick and *might* make it clear the cable, but unlikely. Probably need to rotate it a bit..

I ended up ordering a stock 2010 WR 250 R master cylinder with its mechanical switch. Its the cleanest, but not cheapest option. It should be here later this week. Looking at one on the bike at the dealer, it looks like you might be able to drill out a 450's cylinder and mount that 250 R switch, but am not sure without both parts side by side. Will let you all know when I get the new one.

cheers-
Dustin

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  • SurfaceToAir

Posted April 28, 2013 - 03:46 AM

#8

Slight update on which switch NOT to get. My DCR wire kit from Doctorenduro came with two switches listed here http://www.drcproduc...5-70/index.html

They don't fit in front or rear. In the rear, the bolt size is greater than 14 mm and does not clear the master cylinder, so you can't turn the bolt. The front is plain too long with the terminal ends and runs into the hand guards.

I ordered a stock wr250 dual sport front mc with a mechanical swith, and am now ordering a Baja designs one for the rear.

Front mc with the switch is costing 150 bucks (!!!!!!!) but is the cleanest install for me..

Ugh. Tired of spending money :/

Cheers-
Dustin

Edited by SurfaceToAir, April 28, 2013 - 03:50 AM.


  • Low Down

Posted April 28, 2013 - 11:47 AM

#9

Dang... I used a couple of those cheap Tusk hydraulic switches and no issues so far. $14 each.

  • Kennoy

Posted January 22, 2014 - 06:05 AM

#10

I didn't see the Banjo switch on their site. How much is it? I got the standard type for my front brake & there isn't enough clearance under the hand guard for it to fit correctly.

Not sure if you found what you're looking for yet but here are a couple options of where to get them.

 

 

http://www.onlinerac...-491/D45-71-491

 

http://www.langstonr...tyle_Oil_Pr.htm



  • ftl900

Posted January 22, 2014 - 09:03 AM

#11

Dang... I used a couple of those cheap Tusk hydraulic switches and no issues so far. $14 each.

Same here, they're stupid easy.   Install it, rebleed the brakes, plug in the brake switch.   Maybe 10 minutes for each one.



  • flyandride

Posted January 22, 2014 - 12:01 PM

#12

I got a used street bike master cylinder for my WR250F.   Better feel than the stock mc and it came with a mechanical switch and threaded hole for a mirror.  For the rear and both on my 450 I used hydraulic screw in switches from ebay.  



  • JuiceBoxHero

Posted January 22, 2014 - 12:18 PM

#13

http://www.kandstech...es/12-0010.html
I got it for under 20. Works great and inexpensive. Seems reliable so far.

  • DuncR6

Posted January 22, 2014 - 01:08 PM

#14

I have a '12 WR450 and I am using the '12 TRX450 front master cylinder.  It fits, gives good feel to the lever, and has a built in electric brake switch.  It fits with my Cyrca pro-bend handguards but requires 1" spacers to give enough clearance.  I don't have a brake switch on the rear brake because I don't care about it.  Anytime I'm doing any meaningful braking that people need to know about it's with the front so I only have a front switch.

 

I bought it brand new from a Honda dealership.  I wasn't about to put a dirt old used master cylinder on a brand new bike.  The unit was ~$150 from the dealership.  I'd do the same thing if I did it all over again too.


Edited by DuncR6, January 22, 2014 - 01:12 PM.





 
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