I just picked up a 2012 WR450 last Tuesday. It will be used for dual-sport and then I'll convert it to ride street as well. I'm very particular with installations and always go the extra mile because nothing beats a clean/quality install. The first project was getting the brake light to function and I also think it's stupid that Yamaha puts two different buttons for starting and killing the engine. One switch assembly is much cleaner than two. If you're like me then a good quality aftermarket part is hard to find to do exactly what you want. They always seem to look/act cheap or just don't offer the functionality you're looking for. Not only that, but many aftermarket parts are very expensive. OEM is great to use not only because it's tried and true, but if something breaks then parts are very easy to find.
- Have a functioning brake light
- Condense the start/kill buttons into one assembly
- Save money by not buying aftermarket parts. The pricing for the Baja stuff is insanely high, and frankly I think it looks like junk.
- Create a setup that appears OEM and uses OEM parts
- (1) 2008-13 Yamaha R6 front master cyclinder
- (1) 2008-13 Yamaha R6 right side hand control
- I chose the R6 parts because I have an '08 R6 so I was able to test fit the pieces before buying them and knew they'd work perfectly.
The R6 master cylinder is a Brembo 16x19. I didn't confirm the 19 because someone told me that number, but the 16 value is accurate. This setup should fit within the Cycra Probends but they haven't arrived yet.
Step 1 (mount the switch):
I'm skipping to about 1/2 way through the install. I'm hoping it's obvious enough how to remove the stock master cylinder as well as the stock start/kill switches. If not then the kill switch plugs into a rectangular 2-pin gray plug mounted to the left of the speedometer. The start switch plugs into a triangular 3-pin black plug mounted right behind the brake side radiator.
The R6 switch assembly has a plastic locating pin. Put some grease or something that will mark the bar when you place it in the mounting position. To do this I first did a dry fitment by installed the master cylinder and the switch. Then when sitting on the bike I rotated the switch to get the right angle. Leaving the master untouched, apply a little grease to the locating pin and place it back in the same position you just had. The picture below shows where you need to drill.
Use a center punch before trying to drill on your bar. Use a 7/32" drill bit (colbalt drill bits are very helpful to use instead of regular high-speed metal ones) and just be careful. You only need to make a dimple the same depth as the locating pin so don't do crazy and drill all the way through the bar lol. You can clean up the edge on the hole with a dremel or utility knife.
Step 2 (determine your +/- wires):
As you can see below, the R6 switch assembly has 4 wires inside of it. The kill switch consists of a (12v+) red w/white stripe and a (-) red w/black stripe. The start switch is a (12v+) blue w/white stripe and a (-) solid black. Two additional wires are just outside of the switch housing which are a (constant 12v+) brown wire and a (switched 12v+) green w/yellow stripe wire.
So what this all means is that you need to get a wire with a constant 12v+ supply and connect it to both the brown and blue wires. The start switch connector on the WR is 3-pin. One wire is a constant 12v and the other is a ground. The 3rd pin is empty from the factory, but this makes a great place to pass the taillight wire through (it's probably that same way on the street legal versions). In the picture below you will see 2 blue wires. There are actually 3 wires, since I was finished at this point but you can't see the 3rd wire for the taillight. For me the 12v wire in the 3-pin connector was on the right side (or closest to the engine), but I suggest using a multimeter to be sure.
The kill switch is just as easy since it's a 2 wire connection. For me the 12v supply was the pin in the gray connector that was closest to the front tire (I think). I took that wire and connected it to the red w/stripe in the R6 assembly and the kill switch ground to the red w/black stripe.
Below is how I connected all the wires together. Butt connectors are basically the devil, don't take the easy way out and solder it for a quality connection.
The tubing slips over the wires and goes up to the connector so you don't see the wires at all:
Out back for the taillight. There's the green wire again:
Finished product, that's about as OEM as you're going to get. I wasn't able to order any levers yet as I wasn't even sure if this would work. ASV C6 short levers will be going on it though:
The reservoir isn't mounted yet because I'm waiting on the following item to get here in a couple days:
The stock brake lines will work with this setup, but you have to rotate the hose connecting to the master cylinder 90 degree. It will not cause a kink in the stock line. Also not pictured are the brake lines that haven't arrived yet. I bought some Fren Tubo Type 4 lines and had them custom rotate the master cylinder fitting for that 90 degree difference. Carbon fiber braided lines (have them already on the R6)....fantastic lines:
In the end I think this looks pretty OEM since you can't see any connections or spare wires. The best part is it costed $182 shipped for everything. Although there is still time for me to hate this because I haven't added fluid or taken it for a test ride to try out the feel of the master cylinder. I'll update this again once I give it a try. The only other issue is that due to the way the kill switch is design internally, the operation is backward according to the symbols printed on it. Minor price to pay, but could be fixed using a relay....I just don't care that much about it.
The OEM taillight output is pretty disappointing when it lights up though, well actually it's plain old pathetic. I'm going to make one that has more lumens and will post about that later.
Hopefully this helps someone else in the future. I have another How To that I'm going to start working on in about a week. It will take some time because I have to design it in AutoCAD first. Definitely can't wait to show everyone this next one!
Edited by DuncR6, April 16, 2013 - 09:37 AM.