85 i.t 200

[motoxvet]

That pipe mod really isn't that hard to do.  I used to cut out a section with a cutting torch but there may be better ways to do that.  Clean out all the baffling and crap inside, then just use the piece you cut out to close the hole.  I used to do it with a gas welding torch.  Never tried it with a wire feed but it was easy to bridge any gaps in the joint.

[2 Stroke Boogie]

That pipe mod really isn't that hard to do.  I used to cut out a section with a cutting torch but there may be better ways to do that.  Clean out all the baffling and crap inside, then just use the piece you cut out to close the hole.  I used to do it with a gas welding torch.  Never tried it with a wire feed but it was easy to bridge any gaps in the joint.

I'm not worried about the difficulty of it. I've been doing metal work for 32 years. I just dont want to do it if it's already been done. It kinda looks a little scabby, but the rest of the welds on the pipe kind of do to. As far as the baffles go, I had read somewhre that the plug welds were visible on the outside of the pipe, but I haven't found any.I've also read that a DG pipe is the way to go. Where would I find such a pipe and how much do they cost?

[motoxvet]

That's the cool part of most pipes, especially the high style older ones.  You can do all of that stuff on the side that's toward the middle of the bike so it's pretty much hidden.  I don't really know how to check what's inside a pipe other than one of those mini-cameras on the flexible arm.  If you really want a DG pipe, better start looking on ebay.

[USED YZ426F]

Brand new and ready to run:

 

http://www.dcvmx.com/xcart/product.php?productid=19831&cat=354&page=3

[Zrt1200]

You can get a brand new DG pipe on Amazon for $50 less right now. They are also on ebay right now as well.

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/?tag=freecocom-20&creative=392013&campaign=212361&link_code=wsw&_encoding=UTF-8&search-alias=aps&field-keywords=DG+IT200+pipe

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161095869765?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

With FREE Shipping so its a better deal!!

[2 Stroke Boogie]

Awesome. I didn't see one or $50 but 127 seems like  a good deal. Thanks for that.

[Zrt1200]

Awesome. I didn't see one or $50 but 127 seems like  a good deal. Thanks for that.

 

I meant $50 less than the other link. If it was $50 for a new pipe I would have bought it!! LOL I am still thinking about buying one my self then do a pipe mod on one to see which works better. I never see a used DG pipe for sale and I have been looking for 8 months. Stock pipes yes. DG pipes no.

 

Do you have a aftermarket silencer?? The stock ones are restrictive. Dont buy the DG one unless they make a US forestry approved ones which I have not found in the DG silencers. DEP makes one for the IT200. I dont know who else makes one as of now for the 200. I am sure some thing off a YZ would work though. Just make sure its off a 250cc or bigger.

Edited September 2, 2013 by Zrt1200

[Zrt1200]

My book shows that the stock carb for the '85 IT200 was a Mikuni VM34SS, so assuming you have the original carb your factory jets would be:

 

Main Jet - 330

Needle Jet - P-6

Pilot Jet - 55

Jet Needle - 6F21

Clip Position - 4

Float Level - 23.5mm

 

Yamaha used the same carb and jet sizes on both the '84 and '85 IT200.  They changed to a 36mm Mikuni carb for the '86 IT200.

 

I pulled up the 86 carb part number and check and it was the same for all 3 years so I do not understand how the 86 would have a 36mm carb using the same part number for all 3 years??

[2 Stroke Boogie]

I pulled up the 86 carb part number and check and it was the same for all 3 years so I do not understand how the 86 would have a 36mm carb using the same part number for all 3 years??

I got my new needle and seat. How do I set the float level? Should I just search youtube? 

[Zrt1200]

I got my new needle and seat. How do I set the float level? Should I just search youtube? 

 

With the float bowl off. turn the carb up side down. The little brass fingers that push against the floats is what you want to adjust. When upside down they should be level. You measure from the inside of the carb to the brass fingers. I believe it is 23mm from the float bowl gasket to the finger. Both fingers should be the same height. I usually just set the carb on a level bench, turn the carb upside down and adjust the fingers to level. I am usually with in .5mm this way but I do it all the time between 3 bikes, 3 quads, and 6 multi carb'ed snowmobiles. Also You tube it as to the little spot you want to bend as you do not want to bend the fingers. Make sure you put the fingers the correct way back in as you can turn it upside down.

[2 Stroke Boogie]

With the float bowl off. turn the carb up side down. The little brass fingers that push against the floats is what you want to adjust. When upside down they should be level. You measure from the inside of the carb to the brass fingers. I believe it is 23mm from the float bowl gasket to the finger. Both fingers should be the same height. I usually just set the carb on a level bench, turn the carb upside down and adjust the fingers to level. I am usually with in .5mm this way but I do it all the time between 3 bikes, 3 quads, and 6 multi carb'ed snowmobiles. Also You tube it as to the little spot you want to bend as you do not want to bend the fingers. Make sure you put the fingers the correct way back in as you can turn it upside down.

Got it done! Left the gas on for about and hour and no overflow. Runs great. I'm running a 320 main, a 55 pilot, a 6f21 needle. The needle looks like it says 6f2t,but it's hard for me to read that little chit! 4th groove from the bottom. Needle jet p6? idk what that is. Next up is the DG pipe!

[Zrt1200]

Got it done! Left the gas on for about and hour and no overflow. Runs great. I'm running a 320 main, a 55 pilot, a 6f21 needle. The needle looks like it says 6f2t,but it's hard for me to read that little chit! 4th groove from the bottom. Needle jet p6? idk what that is. Next up is the DG pipe!

 

Glad you got it up and running. Those leaky needle & seats screw up the jetting. When you go to the DG Pipe I would Jet the  main jet up two sizes and then run it. Your better off safe then have a melted piston. Check the plug and adjust from there.

 

What you want is a light cardboard brown color on your plug. Once you have that your are good to go unless it gets cold or hot then you need to make adjustments on the main jet.

 

If you like running your jetting spot on I would get a couple jets leaner and richer than you normally would run. Once you ride the bike for a while. Record the temp, barometric pressure, and humidity and color of the plug and before long you will be able to jet it in the garage for the next days weather and be spot on. I have done that with my bikes. I jet it Friday night for Saturdays weather and unless the weather man screws up I dont have to touch it all day Saturday and the jetting is spot on for max power.

[2 Stroke Boogie]

I took the old out 200 out on sunday and tried tuning it a bit. The plug is light brown, and frankly makes me a bit nervous, so i raised the needle and rode for a few minutes with some wide open 5 and 6th gear runs and it didnt seem to change. I raised the needle another groove and pretty much the same results. The plug is still light brown and the engine didnt seem to change at all. I'm thinking that I will go back up to a 330 main and back to the 4th groove.I dont mind my plug a little dark. I'm not looking for max power all the time. Just so it doesn't blubber and fall on it's face. How long do I need to ride and it what manner to get accurate plug readings. No D.G pipe yet

[bobbyward]

Just can't believe it runs with that big of jets, mine wasn't happy. The other 3 guys that race there's have similar jetting to mine.

[motoxvet]

I took the old out 200 out on sunday and tried tuning it a bit. The plug is light brown, and frankly makes me a bit nervous, so i raised the needle and rode for a few minutes with some wide open 5 and 6th gear runs and it didnt seem to change. I raised the needle another groove and pretty much the same results. The plug is still light brown and the engine didnt seem to change at all. I'm thinking that I will go back up to a 330 main and back to the 4th groove.I dont mind my plug a little dark. I'm not looking for max power all the time. Just so it doesn't blubber and fall on it's face. How long do I need to ride and it what manner to get accurate plug readings. No D.G pipe yet

You're changing the needle position but checking plug color from a wide-open chop.  The needle has little to NO effect on mixture at wide open throttle.  To really change plug color for wide open runs, you need to change main jet.

[Zrt1200]

You're changing the needle position but checking plug color from a wide-open chop.  The needle has little to NO effect on mixture at wide open throttle.  To really change plug color for wide open runs, you need to change main jet.

 

I agree, For WOT change Main jet for midrange move the needle around.

[2 Stroke Boogie]

You're changing the needle position but checking plug color from a wide-open chop.  The needle has little to NO effect on mixture at wide open throttle.  To really change plug color for wide open runs, you need to change main jet.

 

You're changing the needle position but checking plug color from a wide-open chop.  The needle has little to NO effect on mixture at wide open throttle.  To really change plug color for wide open runs, you need to change main jet.

O.k. I wasn't sure about that. I might go back and try the 330. Idk if I should. I wish I could put up a pic of the plug. I'm just not sure. I know the bike rips when it gets wound up. I was on some smooth pavement with a thin layer of dust/dirt on it and even in 4th gear it would start spinning the tire when the rpms got up.

Edited September 27, 2013 by prplhzei.t200

[2 Stroke Boogie]

Just can't believe it runs with that big of jets, mine wasn't happy. The other 3 guys that race there's have similar jetting to mine.

I'm running 32:1 yamalube. That might be the difference. And it's bored over 2 times. I think. Once for sure.

[motoxvet]

I know the color differences when you change jets and read plugs is subtle AND you read a certain part of the plug.  I haven't done it for a long time but if I was to try, I'd search on the net for some good color pix of plug examples.  BTW- I had a beautiful IT250 pass me in traffic yesterday.  It was absolutely perfect.  I almost wanted to yell at him and ask him to pull over so I could look at it...but I didn't.

[Zrt1200]

I know the color differences when you change jets and read plugs is subtle AND you read a certain part of the plug.  I haven't done it for a long time but if I was to try, I'd search on the net for some good color pix of plug examples.  BTW- I had a beautiful IT250 pass me in traffic yesterday.  It was absolutely perfect.  I almost wanted to yell at him and ask him to pull over so I could look at it...but I didn't.

 

When I use to drag race snowmobiles i always ran EV plugs as those little electrodes made it very easy to read where the jetting was. Then I started looking at piston wash and it made it even easier. Being I know how to read the EV style of plugs and you cant get your head in there to check the piston wash I would tune by the EV plug. Its been years sense then and learned a lot about plug reading on the engine dyno's so now I just use ES plugs. If you do a search on plug reading you will find how to read the EV plugs so you are dialed right in. What I now do as i am not looking for Max power every time out like I use to do racing is dial the plug in for a normal temperature day you will ride. Then jet it up one size and forget about it unless it gets really hot or cold then you will need to make adjustment's of coarse.