2008 WR450F with 2006 YZ suspension and cams


219 replies to this topic
  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 15, 2013 - 10:49 AM


Yeah, Ken, whatever.

I've matched you jetting exactly, and it works terribly.
I don't have a slip on for my stock header.
If this upsets you so much, block me or come fix it yourself.


I've re-jetted over 25 FCR's. How many have you done?

  • KennyMc

Posted July 15, 2013 - 01:15 PM


Yeah, Ken, whatever.

I've matched you jetting exactly, and it works terribly.
I don't have a slip on for my stock header.
If this upsets you so much, block me or come fix it yourself.


I've re-jetted over 25 FCR's. How many have you done?


Bill, why are you so quick to get you panties in a bunch? Block me, ignore me.......geezuz. I don't care about the other 25 carbs you'v done. Trying to help you on the 1 you have now. Coming from someone who just does basic tooling on a bike, to me it just seems like you just jump to drastic changes on things rather than simple ones.

IMO, It seems like you were on the right path. If you can get the stock header pipe you were looking for, put the jetting to what most people are running (168-170 main, 48 pilot), JDjetting red needle I believe you said you have, no carb thingy, I believe you did the Honda A/P pump thing that AS recommends. That would put you in-line with 95% of the other WR's out there and provide a good base to start from. Then if it isn't running how you like, make 1 change at a time.

But why jump down peoples throught for trying to help, that part I just don't get.... :confused:

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 15, 2013 - 04:20 PM


Bill, why are you so quick to get you panties in a bunch? Block me, ignore me.......geezuz. I don't care about the other 25 carbs you'v done. Trying to help you on the 1 you have now. Coming from someone who just does basic tooling on a bike, to me it just seems like you just jump to drastic changes on things rather than simple ones.

IMO, It seems like you were on the right path. If you can get the stock header pipe you were looking for, put the jetting to what most people are running (168-170 main, 48 pilot), JDjetting red needle I believe you said you have, no carb thingy, I believe you did the Honda A/P pump thing that AS recommends. That would put you in-line with 95% of the other WR's out there and provide a good base to start from. Then if it isn't running how you like, make 1 change at a time.

But why jump down peoples throught for trying to help, that part I just don't get.... :confused:


Yeah, I know you don't get it.

  • KennyMc

Posted July 15, 2013 - 04:27 PM


Yeah, I know you don't get it.


I do now. I can see why the guys on DBA say the things they do. Bye, bye Krannie.gif

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 15, 2013 - 06:06 PM


I do now. I can see why the guys on DBA say the things they do. Bye, bye Krannie.gif


Don't forget the CA forum, KTM talk, and Dual Sport riders.

If your idea of 'help' is only how to tell me how I'm doing it wrong, then yeah, no thanks.

Hell, I even pm'd you about getting try out your bike again, and your response was 'yeah, I'm pretty sure that's going to happen any time soon'.

Gee, thanks.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 15, 2013 - 06:21 PM


I tried to send Ken a PM, and he blocked me.

  • KennyMc

Posted July 15, 2013 - 06:30 PM


Sorry, can't see what you posted. Took your advice and blocked/ignored and anything else I could do to you. Delete didn't seem to be an option but I will keep looking.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 15, 2013 - 09:36 PM


I went back to the stock air cut valve set up (diaphram/spring in place, diaphram set to seal carb side) and changed the main air jet to the stock 75.
The PO had flipped the diaphragm around and put in a 100 main air jet.

I also put back in the Red JD needle, as it is the leanest needle I have in hand.
It runs much, much better. Too late at night to really test it out.
I still have a decel pop, but that should be easy to trace.

It seems like perhaps my rear carb clamp is bottoming out tight before I get a really tight seal.......and that's probably where the decel pop is coming from.
I'll test it with spray tomorrow.

  • stevethe

Posted July 16, 2013 - 05:56 AM


I went back to the stock air cut valve set up (diaphram/spring in place, diaphram set to seal carb side) and changed the main air jet to the stock 75.
The PO had flipped the diaphragm around and put in a 100 main air jet.

I also put back in the Red JD needle, as it is the leanest needle I have in hand.
It runs much, much better. Too late at night to really test it out.
I still have a decel pop, but that should be easy to trace.

It seems like perhaps my rear carb clamp is bottoming out tight before I get a really tight seal.......and that's probably where the decel pop is coming from.
I'll test it with spray tomorrow.



Don't think it's the ACV valve. If you flow enough air it can be very unreliable. Should work the same as the YZ plugged with the 100 air jet. With mine on the third blip of the throttle it would react and stall. I happen to run large pilot jets in my WR's to make them run the way I like them.

  • miweber929

Posted July 16, 2013 - 10:18 AM


I went back to the stock air cut valve set up (diaphram/spring in place, diaphram set to seal carb side) and changed the main air jet to the stock 75.
The PO had flipped the diaphragm around and put in a 100 main air jet.

I also put back in the Red JD needle, as it is the leanest needle I have in hand.
It runs much, much better. Too late at night to really test it out.
I still have a decel pop, but that should be easy to trace.

It seems like perhaps my rear carb clamp is bottoming out tight before I get a really tight seal.......and that's probably where the decel pop is coming from.
I'll test it with spray tomorrow.


Is this then still with the cams in it then? So its fuel, not cams?

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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 16, 2013 - 01:37 PM


Don't think it's the ACV valve. If you flow enough air it can be very unreliable. Should work the same as the YZ plugged with the 100 air jet. With mine on the third blip of the throttle it would react and stall. I happen to run large pilot jets in my WR's to make them run the way I like them.


I don't either. I'm starting to wonder if the carb's body seal has been compromised....................!

  • stevethe

Posted July 16, 2013 - 07:33 PM


Time to order a fleeced-bay YZ carb. No holes drilled for the ACV crap. Put one on my street WR it had a bad throttle position sensor.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 16, 2013 - 08:10 PM


Time to order a fleeced-bay YZ carb. No holes drilled for the ACV crap. Put one on my street WR it had a bad throttle position sensor.


I am putting the ACV back to stock. Never had a problem with the stock WR ACV set up.
I appears that possibly, the hot start is not closing all the way. I never noticed it before, because the cable move freely, but I noticed today when I pulled the lever, it did not close back up properly, without some 'help'.

I am going to Sudco tomorrow to pick up the ACV diaphram and Delron piston assembly.

  • gcally

Posted July 17, 2013 - 05:31 AM


I am putting the ACV back to stock. Never had a problem with the stock WR ACV set up.
I appears that possibly, the hot start is not closing all the way. I never noticed it before, because the cable move freely, but I noticed today when I pulled the lever, it did not close back up properly, without some 'help'.

I am going to Sudco tomorrow to pick up the ACV diaphram and Delron piston assembly.


The only way that I could see the ACV circuit being the issue is if the plastic piston assembly is not functionally correctly and stuck open. It would have to be stuck open coupled with the 100 YZ PAJ this would make for a very lean pilot circuit.

If you’re ACV plastic piston assembly is functionally correct, I cannot see that changing back to the stock ACV configuration making any difference.

What might make a difference is the way the previous owner disabled the ACV circuit by flipping the diaphragm. There is a groove on the casting, and raised rubber lip on the diaphragm, that is made to properly seal with the standard orientation. Maybe the ACV circuit did not have a good seal.

To disable my ACV circuit I simply cut off the medal nipple on the diaphragm, removed the spring, and installed the 100 YZ PAJ.

Edited by gcally, July 17, 2013 - 05:33 AM.


  • stevethe

Posted July 17, 2013 - 06:10 AM


The only way that I could see the ACV circuit being the issue is if the plastic piston assembly is not functionally correctly and stuck open. It would have to be stuck open coupled with the 100 YZ PAJ this would make for a very lean pilot circuit.

If you’re ACV plastic piston assembly is functionally correct, I cannot see that changing back to the stock ACV configuration making any difference.

What might make a difference is the way the previous owner disabled the ACV circuit by flipping the diaphragm. There is a groove on the casting, and raised rubber lip on the diaphragm, that is made to properly seal with the standard orientation. Maybe the ACV circuit did not have a good seal.

To disable my ACV circuit I simply cut off the medal nipple on the diaphragm, removed the spring, and installed the 100 YZ PAJ.


The ACV valve can be a big drag if you flow too much air on a modified engine the diagram can be overcome with a blip of the throttle. This equates to a fluctuating pilot circuit and can make life very difficult. No fun I've epoxied the holes shut and added the 100 PAJ. There's good reason they are not used on race bikes.

  • gcally

Posted July 17, 2013 - 07:23 AM


The ACV valve can be a big drag if you flow too much air on a modified engine the diagram can be overcome with a blip of the throttle. This equates to a fluctuating pilot circuit and can make life very difficult. No fun I've epoxied the holes shut and added the 100 PAJ. There's good reason they are not used on race bikes.


Wouldn’t the way I did it accomplish the same thing as epoxying the holes?

“To disable my ACV circuit I simply cut off the medal nipple on the diaphragm, removed the spring, and installed the 100 YZ PAJ.”

  • stevethe

Posted July 17, 2013 - 08:03 AM


Wouldn’t the way I did it accomplish the same thing as epoxying the holes?

“To disable my ACV circuit I simply cut off the medal nipple on the diaphragm, removed the spring, and installed the 100 YZ PAJ.”


Think that's fine however with the holes plugged shut no amount of air can get sucked.

  • 1abv

Posted July 17, 2013 - 09:29 AM


Dewd feel free to grab my unit. Heh I said unit. I'm about to put it back together again should be done this week If the parts are in.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 17, 2013 - 01:48 PM


Well that sucks.......

Hot start plunger o-ring was slightly torn, cavity was slightly corroded at the bottom, not allowing the plunger to drop all the way. Fixed it.
Hot start cap (plastic) is cracked. You can't even see it. Glued it up for now.

So, now I have this:

162
45
JD Red 3rd
Adjustable leak @ approx 50
stock functioning acv with 75 airjet
stock functioning hot start and choke
worn out slide plate seal
worn (but not out) slide plate
Dynatek ignition module on provided curve #3
Dubach full stainless exahust (YZ diameter)

No studder, period
No decel pop, period
Small flat spot at 1/4 turn throttle (and above) if under 5k rpms
Small flat spot at WOT under 7k rpms.

Now I can feel that the main is a bit too small, and that the NCVS needle (slightly richer) will help.
When my stock header arrives, I will try that before any jetting changes......The Dubach is way too loud for dual sport....so it will get a Lexx or similar with the quiet core.

After all that, I will jump into the Dynatek curve-maker, and try and 'spark' out the flat spots.


....i love taking off the tank, ... i love taking off the tank,.... I love taking off the tank,....


Sooooo, was all this worth it for the YZ cams?
So far, I still say no. I'm not done yet, but so far, no.
The power is much stronger, but at a slight expense of the loss of power at the bottom rpms.
If I was racing it, I'd say it's absolutely better. When you stay up in the rpms and ride aggressively all the time, it's quite a bit quicker.

But for Dual sport...... NO...

Edited by Krannie, July 17, 2013 - 01:50 PM.


  • Parx_400

Posted July 17, 2013 - 03:42 PM


Maybe do the yz intake cam and the wr exhaust cam? Like the older WR's use to be before the smog cams.




 
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