Can I soak my carb
Posted March 23, 2013 - 01:26 PM
So I thought I would soak my carb. I tore her down now and have a couple questions. I am planning to soak it in carb cleaner.
1:How can I get the seat out of the carb & do i need to in order to soak it. In the schematic it looks like there is a rubber oring in there is this true?
2: How does the Air Cut Valve come out & do I need to to soak it? it looks like there is some plastic behind the brass in the picture?
3: Does the brass fitting for the fuel line come out any issues with leaving it in while i soak it?
4: Does the other brass fuel fitting with plastic on it need to come off Before soaking it?
5: Do I need to split the top half of the bowl off of the carb? ( the section that holds all of the jets.)
Posted March 23, 2013 - 01:42 PM
Posted March 23, 2013 - 02:25 PM
Soak in simple green, rinse with water then blow out with compressed air. You can use aerosol carb cleaner to check all the passages an displace any moisture then reblow everything out with compressed air again
1) Leave the seat in
2) ACV should be OK, Lots of us disable it anyways by flipping the diaphram over so..
3) Leave the fuel fitting.
4) Leave the vent hose fitting too.
5) Don't take the mid body off the carb unless you plan on finding the orings that go in there, (they are somewhat hard to find and not available OEM form Yamaha or any other brand). But you shouldn't need to anyways.
My bike had a super dirty carb from sitting when I purchased it but doing this cleaned it right up and since I was in there I re-jetted it to Krannies recommendations, put a heavy acc pump spring, a adjustable fuel screw in along with setting the acc pump, blocked the ACV, opened up the air box as much as I felt safe, removed the backfire screen and replaced the air filter with a twin-air unit with the anti backfire treatment on it. Oh and I replaced the vent tubes as they were brittle too.
After all that I had one small bit of junk clog the pilot once soon after I put it back together but nothing since (touch wood).
Dont forget to pull the petcock out, clean it and check inside the tank, plus replace fuel lines and consider using a fuel filter as cheap insurance.
Posted March 24, 2013 - 07:55 AM
The bike has no mods on it's all stock except for a brand new one size larger than stock pilot jet.
Yes, it ran the exact same when I got it. As far as how it runs. It runs okay once warmed up meaning for the first three or four minutes you have to have the choke on, or have some throttle applied if you stop it will die (throttle adjustment is all the way up). If you stop on a trail and talk for a no exaggeration 2-3 min you must repeat the process.
It seems lean at idol (tested this by blowing propane into the air box (adding more fuel when lean it will rev - if too rich it will tend to die) it rev-ed up with this test.
Preformed leak down test found no leaks in any seals(started at air box and worked way to engine intake).
Other than that the bike runs normal. HA HA..
I have always ridden two strokes this is my first thumper and I love the power but I am not sure what to think of the the mechanics these are complicated in comparison. Any advice to straighten out the issue at hand would be great.
Edited by NoMoreSmoke, March 24, 2013 - 09:44 AM.
Posted March 24, 2013 - 09:27 AM
I did have a problem getting the acc pump squirter tube and the pilot/ fuel screw passages cleaned out as it was really gunked up, but a bit of soaking via a eye dripper and patience it opened up along with a rubber tip that sealed airtight on the end of a aerosol carb cleaner can. I think the tip came with a mighty vac pump for bleeding brakes.. It fits right on to the plastic tube and has a soft rubber tip to force the cleaner through, priceless!
Also all the rubber bits were rotten inside the carb from being exposed to the old gas so check all the diaphrams, o-rings, etc... Be certain to check the seal thats on the slide plate, if its damaged you will have a lot of problems.. As cheap as all the parts were I just replaced anything that was rubber including the acc pump diaphram with the shorter one from Yamaha to get the squirt duration set the way I wanted but thats another thread that I found on here where sombody had done all the work setting and testing..
Posted March 24, 2013 - 09:57 AM
I had medicore starting issues with the 45 pilot and was running the screw way out, I changed to a 48 pilot and the starting improved dramatically and the fuel screw is correct at about 1.5, 1.75 turns out.
Read the pinned threads about this and tinker till it works..
Spend a lot of time making sure everything is set correctly (float level, acc pump etc..) the ownwers manual is priceless, these carbs do a lot and are very percise instruments with a narrow window of being correct.
Posted March 24, 2013 - 10:03 AM
Re-assemble the carb. It is critical you get the slide back into the correct replationship with the throttle shaft.
Get the TPS back on, get it adjust EXACTLY correct.
Get the AP timing reset EXACTLY.
This means by the book and with all correct measurements. Do not assume marks you made before will do it.
Ensure the thottle cables and the hot start have slack.
Do not second guess things. Countless people now have $1,000 paperweights because 'they thought better...'.
Set the fuel screw by the perscribed method
Posted March 24, 2013 - 11:57 AM
Posted March 24, 2013 - 12:04 PM
I will work to get it back together today
Posted March 24, 2013 - 03:19 PM
Also the PO had really messed up the float level and other basic stuff so don't assume anything is right. The trickiest things to me are the fuel screw installation and the slide plate installation, look carefully at the diagrams in the manual and do some searches on here and google, there is a lot of good info and pics out there..
Posted March 24, 2013 - 06:23 PM
Agian thanks for the simple green tip and all the other advice..
Posted March 26, 2013 - 04:58 PM
Posted April 15, 2013 - 07:37 AM
1. Take the carb apart remove all Jets and diaphragms (I removed the bowl but did not split the bottom half of the carb apart see picture at the beginning of the post).
2. I removed the Slide and throttle assembly then mec for the accelerator pump push rod.
3. Took an old ice-cream bucket and mixed simple green and water 50/50 dropped the carb, jets and bottom of the bowl into the Mix for about three hours. Occasionally I went out and gave a slight agitation to the bucket and carb to move the mix thru it (No Need to Get violent)
4. Pull parts out, dump mix, Blew all Parts out with air compressor.
5. Rinse Parts in water - Then Blow out with air again.
6. Spray outside and inside passage ways in carb and all components with carb cleaner - EXCEPT THE RUBBER ONES... This step will keep your carb from corroding and remove any moisture left in the carb.
7. Blow out all passage ways with compressed air immediately after step 6.
8. Assemble carb & install carb.
Edited by NoMoreSmoke, April 15, 2013 - 10:00 AM.