New WR450 owner... Need some Help


34 replies to this topic
  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 22, 2013 - 04:56 AM

#21

3-4 turns is saying 'larger pilot' which I would certainly try, although I've never seen one that big ever on an FCR MXCR carb.

The lean condition can come from several places. Usually there are other symptoms to lead you to the lean-ness (decel pop, hanging idle), but not always.
  • header crush washer
  • mid pipe junction
  • air boots
  • air jet at intake bell is too large or loose
  • un-oiled air cleaner
  • un-packed silencer
  • wrong jet needle (try NCVS or JD Red at 0-3000 ft)
  • damaged fuel screw (the tip can break off or bend)
  • exhaust valves out of spec

You can also just take the spring on the fuel screw and 'stretch' it so the fuel screw is tighter, and will no longer want to fall out.

Beyond that, I would be stumped. I would say go with the 52 pilot and try and dial that in.

Edited by Krannie, March 22, 2013 - 04:56 AM.


  • sasarris83

Posted March 22, 2013 - 06:53 AM

#22

Now that you mention it when I blip the throttle it does pop on decel... also this motor is the california motor so it had all the emssion stuff on it i guess. (this is what the guy i bought it from told me)

so it has this pipe maybe 1/2" in diameter that comes out of a port on top of the exhasut port and the pipe wraps around the block and stops with a block off... does this have anything to with it?

fuel screw is perfect shape
not sure about the header crush washer but the new pipe i put on is so tight at the midpoint and i clamped it so thats not leaking
air cleaner is brand new and has plenty of oil

i put the blue needle in because thats what the JD kit said to do but i have seen other people post that they run the red below 3000 feet which is as high as im really going to ride in NY

the good thing i noticed is that when i did actually get it to idle using the method i posted before is that my header pipe is getting cherry red anymore when its sitting and idling for 20 minutes...not sure if thats good or bad... but im assuming good and that means it is running richer right?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 22, 2013 - 09:08 AM

#23

Now that you mention it when I blip the throttle it does pop on decel... also this motor is the california motor so it had all the emssion stuff on it i guess. (this is what the guy i bought it from told me)

so it has this pipe maybe 1/2" in diameter that comes out of a port on top of the exhasut port and the pipe wraps around the block and stops with a block off... does this have anything to with it?

ABSOLUTELY! You need to remove the AIS if you want it to run right.

fuel screw is perfect shape
not sure about the header crush washer but the new pipe i put on is so tight at the midpoint and i clamped it so thats not leaking
air cleaner is brand new and has plenty of oil

i put the blue needle in because thats what the JD kit said to do but i have seen other people post that they run the red below 3000 feet which is as high as im really going to ride in NY

the good thing i noticed is that when i did actually get it to idle using the method i posted before is that my header pipe is getting cherry red anymore when its sitting and idling for 20 minutes...not sure if thats good or bad... but im assuming good and that means it is running richer right?
YES, THAT IS ON THE RIGHT TRACK



  • sasarris83

Posted March 22, 2013 - 09:27 AM

#24

so how does that fitting removed from the block? i can pull the tube off since its just clamped to that fitting.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 22, 2013 - 06:39 PM

#25

48 pilot is too big

Have you inspected the air jet on the inside of the intake bell? They clog too.


I STAND CORRECTED:

It seems that my recollection is wrong regarding the pilot jet.

A 48 pilot jet IS the go-to jet for stage one un-corking, not the 45.

  • sasarris83

Posted March 25, 2013 - 06:50 PM

#26

So I just wanted to give you an update. I found a post on the ais removal and someone removed the pressed in elbow in the block and plugged it with oil galley or freeze plugs.. 12.1mm which I purchased and going to put in ASAP.

As for the idle issue. I got fed up and pulled the carb off all the way totally disassembled and found a few interesting things...
The pilot was fine by the way.. I found the air jet on the intake bell of the carb completely plugged with some kind of sludge. Also I pulled the slide out of the carb which didnt do to change the needle the first time since you dont need to and found there's a flat plate on the discharge side of the slide that comes off. Well, that plate was upside down!!! The flat part edge of the plate was down and the curved side was up! I don't know if this caused the idle issue alone or in combination with that air jet being clogged but either way I was psyched to get back together as soon as possible to try it.
Started up and idled awesome... All kinds of adjustment in idle screw as well as the fuel screw. Didn't tune it yet because I'm beat and need sleep but Definitely will tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it!

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 25, 2013 - 10:23 PM

#27

I gotta say it....

:smashpc: :bonk: :prof:

I probably put the slide in my X upside down 3 times the first year I worked on it.

You should really check the Accelerator performance before putting the subframe back down.....it's the key to throttle control.

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  • sasarris83

Posted March 26, 2013 - 03:35 AM

#28

I had the carb out enough to see the steady stream of fuel come out of the accelerator jet which I'm assuming is good?
For whatever reason I didn't pull the slide out last time when I clean the carb ( don't ask me why ) and I guess I would've never known that it was upside down until I pulled it out and that plate fell off..haha so I pulled up the manual and it clearly showed that it should be the other way... Which made sense I mean it was closing the whole carb off partially. So sigh of relief! Also i put in a new plug and I'll finish the ais and be good to go!

  • miweber929

Posted March 26, 2013 - 04:27 AM

#29

AIS removal is NOT mandatory for the bike to run "right" as stated. It simply adds air to the exhaust for emissions and the bike will pop on deceleration and give leaner than actual readings if someone does an air/fuel reading on your emissions.

Weight and space are the major reasons for removal.

Good job troubleshooting; it's always good to ask when your bike is way out of spec from "normal" as there is usually a reason it's so different. Glad this was realitivly easy to catch.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 26, 2013 - 05:22 AM

#30

AIS removal is NOT mandatory for the bike to run "right" as stated. It simply adds air to the exhaust for emissions and the bike will pop on deceleration and give leaner than actual readings if someone does an air/fuel reading on your emissions.

Weight and space are the major reasons for removal.

Good job troubleshooting; it's always good to ask when your bike is way out of spec from "normal" as there is usually a reason it's so different. Glad this was realitivly easy to catch.


While yes, the bike will not change in HP, idle speed, or other measurements, it will decel-pop with the AIS, no matter what adjustments are made.

  • sasarris83

Posted March 26, 2013 - 08:02 AM

#31

Thanks! I felt like beating my head against a wall. I Definitely overlooked the pilot air jet but the guy who had it before me must have put that slide plate in backwards. What does it do anyways?
Thanks for the help you guys rock.

  • miweber929

Posted March 26, 2013 - 07:05 PM

#32

While yes, the bike will not change in HP, idle speed, or other measurements, it will decel-pop with the AIS, no matter what adjustments are made.

Good info, thanks for repeating almost verbatim what I said above.

Popping on deceleration isn't always sign something's "wrong" and the AIS does not NEED to be removed, despite what others on here have written and suggested. New owners need to know they have a choice, and it gives zero performance to remove it unlike the grey wire, throttle stop, air box and exhaust restrictions. And the then needed jetting adjustment.

  • sasarris83

Posted March 27, 2013 - 03:39 AM

#33

I have a question about the exhaust. I just put a DG slip-on on my bike but I've heard some people mention some things you have to do to the header pipe? Or am I good with just the slip-on?

  • miweber929

Posted March 27, 2013 - 04:22 AM

#34

I have a question about the exhaust. I just put a DG slip-on on my bike but I've heard some people mention some things you have to do to the header pipe? Or am I good with just the slip-on?

A popular bang for your buck mod is a complete YZ exhaust for a WR as the head pipe is much bigger on the YZ. However you are just fine running a slip on (properly packed and a reasonable sound level please) and when jetted properly the bike will be great from top to bottom. Since the headpiece is larger, I believe you can't run a WR slip on with a YZ head pipe but search as I may be wrong on that. There shouldn't be anything you "need" to do to it to run your DG.

My 04 has an FMF Q2 slip on pipe on it, and it sounds and runs great with the stock head pipe.

  • sasarris83

Posted March 27, 2013 - 08:53 AM

#35

It's sounds great for sure and not too loud. Just prior I did the JD jet kit and I'm not sure if the jetting is ok adding the pipe now. Of course the pipe comes with a piece of paper saying I need to re-jet for it but isn't specific. I'm not sure how to jet for a pipe or why I need to. So if I knew that, that would probably help :)




 
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