swingarm and linkage bearings


22 replies to this topic
  • allterra

Posted March 12, 2013 - 05:31 PM

#1

TT parts store does not show a breakdown for the swing arm and linkage for the 07 WR can somebody please give me the #'s for the swing arm and linkage bearings. I'm sure they must sell them here as a kit. Thanks I would like to give them a chance. hopefully the price will be right.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 13, 2013 - 05:31 AM

#2

Do yourself a favor and stick with OEM parts for bearings and races.
All balls and pivot works stuff do not last.

bikebandit dot com can supply you with everything .

  • allterra

Posted March 13, 2013 - 12:54 PM

#3

Thanks, unfortunately I need to replace all of them which equals $600 purchased individually as they don't provide a kit. I will replace with OEM as they fail. I'm a little disappointed as the PO said dealer just replaced all. I have never had them fail in less than a year before. I have always used OEM but dont know what is in there now. Oh well lesson learned.

  • revyrider

Posted March 13, 2013 - 05:32 PM

#4

http://www.ebay.ca/i...984.m1438.l2649
A lot less than $600.Don't know how good these are though.

Edited by revyrider, March 13, 2013 - 05:35 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:13 PM

#5

Thanks, unfortunately I need to replace all of them which equals $600 purchased individually as they don't provide a kit. I will replace with OEM as they fail. I'm a little disappointed as the PO said dealer just replaced all. I have never had them fail in less than a year before. I have always used OEM but dont know what is in there now. Oh well lesson learned.


I just added it up: all OEM swingarm and linkage bearings, races, and spacers AND SHAFTS are less than 300.00 at retail.

  • allterra

Posted March 13, 2013 - 07:15 PM

#6

Local dealer quoted $568.35+tax. I found all the parts on line from several OEM suppliers with a total overall of $344.56 including both ends of the shock and a swing arm chain guard and upper chain roller assy and shipping. Everything was seized or broken I had to cut, score some of the races and break them out. Would never seize have helped prevent that. My blind puller just busted up the lip ad you can see.

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  • MANIAC998

Posted March 14, 2013 - 02:59 AM

#7

Typically, I use Never-Seize on fasteners and grease on pivot points and have never had any issues with removal or with rust. If you use Never-Seize on pivot points, it tends to heat up and lose it's very limited viscosity and tends to solidify.

  • allterra

Posted March 14, 2013 - 05:20 AM

#8

I was thinking between the outermost race and the casting. To keep the outer race from seizing to the cast. I think it may have been a galvanic reaction due to the dissimilar metals used.

  • Road Rage

Posted March 14, 2013 - 04:07 PM

#9

Wow, those are some messed up bearings!!

  • allterra

Posted March 14, 2013 - 04:41 PM

#10

Oh ya and right now I am trying to get the swing arm off which I am currently convinced has never been off and this is an 07.

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  • allterra

Posted March 14, 2013 - 04:42 PM

#11

Any suggestions on removing a swing arm that has not been removed since 07.


  • Krimble

Posted March 14, 2013 - 05:07 PM

#12

Most bike manufacterers don't even make their own bearings, so OEM's are not necceseraly better than aftermarkets. I went at my Yamaha dealer and they sold me Pivot works... :cool:

  • allterra

Posted March 14, 2013 - 10:23 PM

#13

Update: I am down to removing the pivot bolt on the swing arm. I am sure it has never been removed. The PO had shown me a slip that a bill for all this had been done shortly prior to me purchasing the bike. My feelings are either he showed me a different bike bill or he got taken. Either way it is my headache now. I have been soaking it with PB Blast and Seafoam penetrate for 3 days now. I loosened the nut and pounded on it with a SS drift (harder than brass but softer than the bolt.) No movement of course. Heated the swing arm for a half hour to create some thermal movement then the motor case and whacked it again, no movement. I let it all cool w/ more oil sprayed on. I heated the bolt from inside( threw the hole) then quickly cooled it to see if it would cause some thermal movement. Hit it again. I also tried all the same with a puller pushing on it the whole time. naa daa no go. it is soaking right now. Tomorrow I am going to try some more.

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  • allterra

Posted March 14, 2013 - 10:39 PM

#14

After doing searches on this and several other sites it seems the real "sticky" part is where it goes through the cases. Not a part I want to break or warp with excess heat. other people have done it on bikes older than mine so I should be able to get it out of there. Is there a sleeve in that center section?

  • MANIAC998

Posted March 15, 2013 - 02:58 AM

#15

After doing searches on this and several other sites it seems the real "sticky" part is where it goes through the cases. Not a part I want to break or warp with excess heat. other people have done it on bikes older than mine so I should be able to get it out of there. Is there a sleeve in that center section?


Sort of. The center cases have a large bossed in sleeve that is non-removable. That area is so thick, I highly doubt you would be able to warp anything, and it would be nearly impossible to break. I know in extreme cases, some have saw-zalled the bolt in half to be able to remove from the bike and then take the complete assembly to a machine shop to get the remainder pressed out.

  • Do I Care?

Posted March 15, 2013 - 05:48 AM

#16

This may help....
Posted Image
For part numbers go HERE

  • allterra

Posted March 15, 2013 - 02:25 PM

#17

Success the swing arm is off. After all that soaking with penetrant it still came out dry. I personally think it was the heat cycles that did it. Once it stopped ticking durring one of the heating and cooling it drifted right out. Prior to that it would not move.

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  • Do I Care?

Posted March 15, 2013 - 02:48 PM

#18

I don't mean to preach,ramble or be a dick but you should always use trusted brands if not using Genuine like Koyo or Timken bearings. I prefer Koyo because there bearings seem the best.
Using the correct[color="#006699"] grease [/color] & greasing well will also help to remove some play. I use Morey's EP2 Bigfoot
I never had a problem replacing these except making sure they are all installed correctly but I use Genuine parts (usually). Sometimes I like to save money & buy them locally i.e.. Koyo but in this case I think I prefer Genuine (which may just be Koyo anyway).
Some bearing manufacturers will have different internal clearance specifications. For example...... One company has tested their bearings & found that C3 clearances lasts the longest with their tests & their bearings. Another company will find after testing that a C4 clearance is best for that bearing the way they built & tested it. In the end it may have more or less play then another brand but the bearings will be made with the clearances made for that particular type & brand of bearing so this isn't a problem.
Also for example.......One company will have 38 µm minimum clearance & 61 µm maximum clearance for a C4 bearing that is 50mm. Whereas the other company will have 36 minimum clearance & 63 maximum for a C4 bearing that is 50mm. This will in turn add to the play but will still be in spec with that particular brand of bearing.
That said if your not using Genuine bearings I think that 1-1.5 mm play should be acceptable given how many different bearings are required for the job. Maybe even 2mm play for some brands of bearings. 3mm would be too much no matter what brand.

Radial clearance is the play between the ball and raceway perpendicular to the bearing axis. Axial clearance is the play parallel to the bearing axis and is typically at least 10 times greater than the radial clearance. Generally, internal radial clearance will be reduced 80% of the interference fit amount.
That said you have to take into account the side play in bearings as well as up & down. Especially with interference fits.
Also the ball type bearing adds to the end result of play-part N36. [color="#006699"]HERE[/color] This swivel bush will have a lot more clearance than the roller needle bearings as it has to take the load.

Oh & if your not using the Genuine ones with the inserts (it holds the bearing together so all those annoying needle roller bearings don't drop out) you will have a little more play than usual
All this said.......It would pay to use the collar from the bearing company that supplied you the bearings as they will NOT be right for other brands of bearings unless all specs are the same as each other.

Hope that is not too much rambling lol.

  • allterra

Posted March 15, 2013 - 03:26 PM

#19

Sort of. The center cases have a large bossed in sleeve that is non-removable. That area is so thick, I highly doubt you would be able to warp anything, and it would be nearly impossible to break. I know in extreme cases, some have saw-zalled the bolt in half to be able to remove from the bike and then take the complete assembly to a machine shop to get the remainder pressed out.


Thank you. MANIAC998 you removed some of my hesitation on really going after it hard knowing that it was a large bossed in sleeve that is non-removable.

Thanks to everyone on this site and others I poached last night and this am. I used some of your ideas and others I ignored or combined.

Just for those of you like me this was my process that finally worked :
1: soak the heck out of it with penetrate (I used PB blast & Seafoam)
2: remove everything in the way (shock, brake, and lift the sub frame)
3: create a grade 5 threaded rod bearing press use coupling in place of nuts and grade 5 washers or sockets.(use the largest diameter rod that will fit through the pivot bolt.)( use a socket or washers that will press on the RT side of the frame not the pivot bolt.)( on the left side make sure the socket or washers fit inside the frame recess and rest on the nut & pivot bolt.
4: back the nut on the pivot even with the end. ( avoid destroying pivot bolt) ( I bought another nut and used that)
5: tighten down the homemade bearing press with an impact driver.
6: heat all the joints and hope for the best. ( used propane for this)
7: I removed the press and heated the inside of the pivot bolt with a carbonizing flame from my oxy/acet torch then quickly cooled it with water from a spray bottle
8: I repeated this process several times. Each time i would hear it "tink" I continued to add the "oil" but I'm not sure it did any good as it came out dry.
9: the last time while heating with the press applying pressure I heard a "thunk" not a "tink" I saw that the press was loose and the nut on the pivot bolt was tight to the frame.
YES something moved. I was able to easily drift it out with the SS punch.( I use Stainless Steel because it is harder then brass but softer than the pivot bolt)

  • MANIAC998

Posted March 16, 2013 - 03:49 AM

#20

We have a nickname for heating/removing stubborn fasteners around here. We call it the "Hot Wrench"! As you have found out, the heating/cooling sessions works wonderously in most cases! Glad to hear you had some success, and are showing your Yamaha some Love!!!




 
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