2012 wr 450...... what can i do to get this thing to run


12 replies to this topic
  • otist

Posted March 03, 2013 - 02:22 PM

#1

Ok so here it is ... i went from a 2001 wr 426 to a brand new fi 2012 wr 450. I thought this thing would be awesome, but i am dissapointed. Yes it has been uncorked. Here are my problems..... it doesnt like to start very well and it if you drop the throttle to fast it dies.... doesnt seem to pull as hard as my 426 either but it is faster. I believe that it is just too lean. My dealer has changed mapping and it does run better... but still has flame out...... whats the best fix? Can i fix this if i buy the programer or is there someone with a reprogramed fuel controller to fix this?

  • otist

Posted March 03, 2013 - 02:24 PM

#2

Pre- programmed controler

  • JDLowrance

Posted March 03, 2013 - 04:46 PM

#3

Ok so here it is ... i went from a 2001 wr 426 to a brand new fi 2012 wr 450. I thought this thing would be awesome, but i am dissapointed. Yes it has been uncorked. Here are my problems..... it doesnt like to start very well and it if you drop the throttle to fast it dies.... doesnt seem to pull as hard as my 426 either but it is faster. I believe that it is just too lean. My dealer has changed mapping and it does run better... but still has flame out...... whats the best fix? Can i fix this if i buy the programer or is there someone with a reprogramed fuel controller to fix this?


You might have to elaborate on "uncorked".

I installed an FMF/GYT-R pipe and power bomb header, comp ECU (FMF map with no ignition advance), opend up airbox and removed throttle stop. With these changes this bike rips. Way stronger off the bottom and through the mid and a smidge faster on top than my 09 WR with equivilant mods.

Might want to check your airbox and make sure the dealer didn't accidentally leave a rag stuffed in there :rolleyes:

Good luck getting it running properly.....should be a no brainer.

Once I made these changes the bike starts on the first or second push of the starter cold or hot

  • otist

Posted March 03, 2013 - 04:56 PM

#4

By uncorked i mean the gytr ecu, baffles in the air box have been removed, throttle stop, and the insert in the pipe removed. not, sure what map is in it right now . I live at 6000' and ride up to 10,000' not sure if that has anything to do with it.... i read a article that talked about how this bike barely ran because of the epa standards. And if i remember. Right... they added a pipe, changed the mapping and added a fuel controller to get it to perform the way they should. The flame out ( dies when i chop the throttle) bothers me the most. Just wondered what others were doing. Is a after market pipe better then pulling the insert out of the stock pipe? Any other performance modds for these bikes worth doing?

  • otist

Posted March 03, 2013 - 04:59 PM

#5

Oh and btw... it doesnt start with the starter.... i always have to kick start it... to get it to start.

  • KTM_Pat

Posted March 03, 2013 - 05:30 PM

#6

Oh and btw... it doesnt start with the starter.... i always have to kick start it... to get it to start.


If the starter is turning the engine over strongly (heathly rpm like when you kick) and it doesn't start, but starts when you kick start.... Tell tales sign of electrical problem... You could have a short in the system that's pulling down the voltage. Just a thought. ;)

I'm not the WR expert but i would disconnect everything from the bike electrically except for bare min for bike to run and see if there's a difference. Get a volt meter take readings of ur running voltage etc...

Edited by KTM_Pat, March 03, 2013 - 05:36 PM.


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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 03, 2013 - 05:50 PM

#7

You are comparing the 426, which is a YZ426 motor, with 36ftlbs of torque.
That's more than a KX450F!
It was a very healthy motor, but top heavy, and terrible suspension.



If you ride aggressively, you will need a professional ecu tuner, a Li battery, and Suspension re-valving to make it meet your needs.

  • nolo263

Posted March 03, 2013 - 08:56 PM

#8

There has to be something wrong with your bike!! Mine is a monster! It will do everything i ask it to at all times!! I also own a ktm 690 so i know what power is. My bike will pull the tire off the ground in the first 4 gears. I suggest you have someone look at your bike.

  • cadesdad

Posted March 04, 2013 - 09:56 AM

#9

Take it to the dealer and have them adjust the idle circut. My uncle had the same problem on his 12 WR (also in Idaho and same elevation) and the dealer was able to fix this. Here is a link to the thread that adresses this.

http://www.thumperta...-starting-woes/
[color=rgb(0, 0, 0)][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif][size=3][background=transparent]
TT member zuch95701 gives the solution in the first reply. He gets the credit for this info. I'm just passing it along. Good luck,[/background][/size][/font][/color]

  • cwallershasta

Posted March 04, 2013 - 11:27 AM

#10

I had that 426 motor to, and I agree it was awesome. But there is no reason as to why your WR is not working right if it was uncorked properly. Mine rips. I do notice it has to be warm for the e start, but thats about it. I think he's right, you should have the idle circut checked. Good luck, once you get it right, you shouldn't be disappointed.

  • otist

Posted March 04, 2013 - 12:31 PM

#11

Thanks for the info!

  • MaxPower

Posted March 05, 2013 - 04:50 AM

#12

You might have to elaborate on "uncorked".

Might want to check your airbox and make sure the dealer didn't accidentally leave a rag stuffed in there :rolleyes:



I just had to buy a stupid 250f when they first came out in 01. I rode that thing for the first 5 hours in disbelief . They were supposed to be the best things ever and I thought a XR 250 was faster. Until I cleaned my filter and saw I really did leave a rag in the airbox. I still hated that thing though

  • cwallershasta

Posted March 05, 2013 - 08:07 AM

#13

I failed to mention that I had a hard time starting it too once it started to getting cold out. So my dealer mentioned that I should switch to Yamalube 0/40 during the winter. And now it starts second kick everytime. Depending on how hot I get my bike, I usualy change my oil after every third ride. Because of it being 0-40 I will change it after two rides until I go back to 10/40 wieght for the warm months. Try this oil out and you will see a difference in how it starts when it's really cold, it's worked really well for me.




 
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