Paint advice..Powder/Paint/Clear ?


14 replies to this topic
  • Thommo_400f

Posted February 03, 2013 - 06:54 PM

#1

'99 WR400

In prep for a winter teardown, any advice would be appreciated on engine and frame painting.

My current engine was already painted black when I got it but is looking pretty sad (chipped and peeling)

My frame is original paint....that means bare metal in quite a few places !!

So, what's easiest / most cost effective repaint option (by professionals as I am useless!)?
1. SODA Blast and respray frame original blue and engine clear coat
2. Strip and respray as above
3. SODA Blast and Powdercoat frame original and engine black (can you powdercoat engine?)
4 Strip and Powdercoat as above
5. any suggestions

Not even sure if paint stripper is even possible ?

Bearing in mind that I'll probably keep this bike for < 2yrs before an upgrade.

Cheers

  • MANIAC998

Posted February 04, 2013 - 05:09 AM

#2

Powdercoating the frame will get you the longest lasting coating, and around here costs the same as having an autobody shop do a normal paint job. I don't believe you would want to powdercoat the engine, as you will need to remove engine sidecovers from time to time, and powdercoating will make that difficult.

  • Thommo_400f

Posted February 04, 2013 - 11:46 AM

#3

Thanks
Local guy said $200 for frame blast and coat.
Not sure what to do about engine....I would like to go back to original. Is that clear coat or is it painted silver ?

  • Do I Care?

Posted February 05, 2013 - 04:02 AM

#4

First of all i don't claim to be a pro but have sprayed many cars & bikes & think i achive good if not professional results. (or atleast i think so)

This is for my TT-R 250 but it will be the same colour as yours (apparently) if not only a slight variation which would not be noticable















Barra's 1999-2012 Motorcycle Paint Reference Chart


MODEL MODEL CODE COLOR NAME COMPONENT COLOR NAME PAINT CODE PAINT CODE
YAMAHA COLOR-RITE

TT-R250 5GFD / 5GFE Team Yamaha Blue/ FrameN1* Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C 0564 (DPBMC) 5815

TT-R250R/C White FRAME N2* Deep Purplish Blue Solid E 0583 (DPBSE) 5829

Engine* Universal aluminium (High temp) SP127

Swing arm/Forks* Machine Silver Ford 2QTC (CR)

Wheels* Sunlight Silver Mazda 22V

Components* Gloss Black GB400

Clear coat additive* Vibrance Prizmatique pigment DX78

If your in the US see the [color=#0000CD]colorite.com[/color] website for paint

Can't directly link it so just search for your model. (Same color paint as mine but not Dupont)

............................................................................................................................

This was the color

Posted ImagePosted Image



Posted Image


Bit of dust on it by this stage...

Posted Image

Of course it would be up to you if you want to powerdercoat or paint.

If you do want to paint it though remember....First primer,make sure you give it a light sand then metallic blue base coat,20-50mins later the solid over the top & finally clear coat after 30-50mins depending on temp.

I would reccommend using a high temp paint for the motor. I used the paint in the chart. It works but may blemish like most paint with heat applied. Maybe a extractor/muffler paint would be best if wanting lasting results.


This was my motor with the clear coat additive* Vibrance Prizmatique pigment

Posted Image


Posted Image

I kinda changed it a little though :goofy: BTW NO i did'nt spray the spark plug cap it was like that when i bought it lol (it's since been removed)

Posted Image





Posted Image


Edited by Barra8, February 05, 2013 - 04:34 AM.


  • MANIAC998

Posted February 05, 2013 - 05:10 AM

#5

Nice job!!

  • Thommo_400f

Posted February 05, 2013 - 01:20 PM

#6

Great.
Thanks for the photos.
That's definitely a similar color scheme to what I was thinking.

How did you prep the frame and motor? Blasted?

  • Krimble

Posted February 05, 2013 - 02:34 PM

#7

If you want to sell it though, Powdercoating might appear more to a potential buyer. It's maybe going to be a better investment.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Do I Care?

Posted February 05, 2013 - 07:19 PM

#8

Great.
Thanks for the photos.
That's definitely a similar color scheme to what I was thinking.

How did you prep the frame and motor? Blasted?


The frame was not too bad (picbelow) so all that was needed was a good sand back. The two pack primer i used sticks like glue & is so good for all those imperfections. If painting try to get everything right first. If you get all your edges nicely featheredged first it makes a whole lot of difference.

Painting preporation

..............................................................................

600-800 grit sandpaper

Mineral turps or wax & grease remover for oily surfaces
.................................................................................



Posted Image


This was after sanding back & primer coating....

Posted Image

I thought i would upload the different coats because when i did this i thought for sure that the color was wrong. The reason is that the first coat of * Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C 0564 (DPBMC) 5815 looks too blue & also too metallic....

Posted Image

As you can see it looks wrong but wait.....
This is the Deep Purplish Blue Solid E 0583 (DPBSE) 5829 coat that makes it look nearly right....
Posted Image

Then finally the UPOL clear coat which did a good job. (Just to be clear my favourite clear coat is Dee Beer but this was harder to get hold of & more $$$$ .)

Posted Image
...............................................................................
The motor i used a dentist drill (like a dremel but better) with sanding discs but if your fussy or don't want to spend alot of time,get it bead/soda blasted. Just remember to get ALL oil off the surface & take your time. Maybe best not to use clear coat for the engine unless it's a high temp clear. Even then it will bemish but that's always the story no matter what you do.



If you want to sell it though, Powdercoating might appear more to a potential buyer. It's maybe going to be a better investment.


Yes powerdercoating is better in that respect. I painted mine because i never plan to sell it & it will be easier to touch it up with paint.

Nice job!!


Thanks for the kind comments :thumbsup:

  • Thommo_400f

Posted February 05, 2013 - 07:45 PM

#9

Thanks for the info.
Since my engine has a crappy paint job already I think I'll have to get it blasted. I guess it's a matter of sealing it up as well as possible.

  • Do I Care?

Posted February 05, 2013 - 09:49 PM

#10

Thanks for the info.
Since my engine has a crappy paint job already I think I'll have to get it blasted. I guess it's a matter of sealing it up as well as possible.


Yeah that & make sure you don't blast your magneto wires or this will cause trouble. A bit of water won't hurt aslong as there is no muck in it & you give it a good oil change afterwards.
I would none the less be making sure that it's sealed well enough so no paint ect gets in. & put a blocked pipe on your oil breather (at the head cover from reading posts on here)
I put a piece of garden hose around my magneto wires after cutting it in the centre. Then wrapped with electrical tape. I also plugged the intake & exhaust ports...Posted Image

The rotor cap you see removed was so i could spray it black but it was there when cleaning/sanding ect. It also has packing foam in it

Edited by Barra8, February 05, 2013 - 10:17 PM.


  • Do I Care?

Posted February 06, 2013 - 04:09 AM

#11

If you have trouble finding the paint or want to get it a little cheaper you should be able to go to a GOOD automotive paint shop & quote these codes below.
.................................................................................................................................
DUPO5000600 DUPONT 6000 BASECOAT DP 500 ML
OW PURPLE 1
...................................................................................................................................
DUPO5000600 DUPONT 6000 MS BASECOAT DP 500 ML
OW PURPLE
...................................................................................................................................
You will need at least a 1L - 1L 1/2 of clear coat & a liter of primer.

  • Do I Care?

Posted February 06, 2013 - 04:26 AM

#12

Last thing, if you use a spray gun the right size nozzle it helps to save on paint. I used a cheap one from ebay & it works good (did need a few spare o-rings for the nozzle). I have a bigger pro gun but it would have wasted too much paint & also too much paint fumes.

TYPE OF FEED:GRAVITY

NOZZLE 0.8Mlto1mm
metal pot[ new arrivals]
gun dont come with spanner
CUP SIZE :125ML

OPERATING PRESSURE:2.0-3.5BAR

PATTERN WIDTH:110-160MM

AIR CONSUMPTION:3.5-5.0CFM
dont come with spanner .only a cleaning brush
CARS/////BOATS////WOOD WORK////BEST GUN AND LOW PRESSURE

Posted Image

Edited by Barra8, February 06, 2013 - 04:33 AM.


  • MANIAC998

Posted February 06, 2013 - 06:03 AM

#13

Barra8, How much did the gun cost, if you don't mind my asking.

  • Do I Care?

Posted February 06, 2013 - 04:15 PM

#14

Barra8, How much did the gun cost, if you don't mind my asking.


I got it CHEAP. It cost me AU $50 for the spray gun & water trap. Search ebay & you will find something like this
Of course this is only a cheap one but worked good for me. If your going to be doing a fair bit of painting it may be best to buy a pro gun.

  • Do I Care?

Posted February 06, 2013 - 04:39 PM

#15

When painting it pays to start with all those corners & hard to get to places first. This ensures a good coat on the edges & no missed spots.
Be sure to put a light ''tack'' coat on first,then 15mins or so later give a good coat (longer for cold climates 30-40 mins). You can use three coats but i like to do it in two. I would advise three thin coats for anyone that is not use to spray painting.

When sanding make sure you use a sanding block for flat surfaces & a soft pad for contours ect.

Never try to get a full coat in the first coat. Always build it up slowly until it goes nice & glossy. If it's not as glossy as you want.....don't worry the clear coat will sort that out.
Note:It won't be ''super'' clear or glossy until dry.

With clear coat be VERY careful not to put too much on at once. Especially on UN-level surfaces or it will run or sag! Because it is hard to see without really good light it is best to apply a light ''tack'' coat & do another 1-2 coats in 20mins or so.

The two-pack primer i describe (ie. UPOL) on the other hand you can afford to be a little more generous but don't go overboard or it will run or sag also.Always sand primer lightly before painting so as not to leave a rough surface. If your primer is going on dry & doesn't feel smooth use more thinners.

Any runs that you may encounter can be carefully sanded with meduim-fine sandpaper & buffed out. Serch Youtube for ideas like[color=#0000CD] this[/color] one

Always stick to the recommended hardner Vs paint/clear & results should speak for themselves .



Good luck all :thumbsup:

Edited by Barra8, February 06, 2013 - 09:16 PM.





 
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