[urymoto]

im startgint to think that when i made the hole in the airbox, some chuncks flew into the rubber airbox, and then in the carb...ill do it..thanks...i got so discouraged that i was a crap mechanic...but you guys helped..

btw if i remove the rubber boot (on the back of the carb going into the airbox), the FCR should be easier to re-install(remove) no?

[iowaBClivewire]

the truly eassy way to remove the carb is to remove the sub frame and air box with boot as one chunck

[urymoto]

ok i removed all the jets...no sign of any residue or crap...who knows maybe its too small to see...but once i took off the float bowl, i noticed a hole in the metal that wasnt quite circular...like somebody punched a hole in it with ascredriver...maybe its like that..

anyway, im gonna clean it all..any advice how to clean a carb? do i just clean the needles, or do i pour carb cleaner over the whole thing?

[urymoto]

also, am i spuuosed to unscrew those small allen bolts that seem to have yellow pain on them?
and one final thing..the fuel screw order is : 1)rubber oring, metal washer, spring, screw right?

[jcoop]

It also sounds to me like a plugged pilot jet. However I had a similar problem with my drz it ended up being a bad kill switch. It would run at higher rpms but not idle. It is an easy thing to check by unplugging your kill switch. You never know.

[lostonmonday]

Usually I pull the jets and clean them one by one, after making sure the carb body is spotlessly clean. A can of compressed air comes in handy to blow out the carb and wont have enough pressure behind it to damage anything. If I remember right, your not supposed to use brake or carb cleaner because it'll eat rubber parts inside the carb.

[NMdesertRacer]

You didnt by any chance take the slide out did you? I dont know if the fcr drz carb has to have the one side of the slide the right way when you put it back together?

[urymoto]

slide never out....

ill look into the kill switch...but i doubt it since when the symptoms stasrted, even at 1/2 or more, it would bog, which it never did...so the kill switch cant cause that...

im looking into the pilot, but it looks clean...can non visible dirt actually have any effect??

anyway...
gotta run to work...

[urymoto]

could this be it??

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=599296&highlight=spark+plug+idle

i do notice a space but i though i tighted it enough..maybe it came loose while is was driving...

[Redrodent]

My bet, water in the gas. Sits there forever, then goes in the carb one day when when you need reserve. Only has to be a few drops. It's gonna fire right when you put it back together :ride:

[urymoto]

lets hope you right..but i doubt water..im always filling up...and it never sits

[urymoto]

UPDATE...i re-did everything

it seems to run better, but i still lose idle at like 500rpm when i let go..it just isint there...but i can ride...anyway.any more suggestions?

[Eddie Sisneros]

tried turning the idle up?

[iowaBClivewire]

it is a one cylnder it likes to idle at 1,500 RPM not 500

[urymoto]

cant thank you guys enough for the responses...if you ever drop by montreal, beer's are on me...

ok yeah, i tired turinng the idle screw all the way in and out.....nothing...and while im adjusting the knob..i make sure the engine is running REAL slow (ie 500rpm) so that if i do end up increasing the idle, it will add to the RPM,a nd increase..NOTHING...

i still see a minute space between the boot and carb...but i think i made it tight enough...not sure what to do...

how big does the hole need to be (if there is one) so that additional air is bypassing though the boot and killing your idle??

thanks in advance

[iowaBClivewire]

ok so the idle did NOTHING

ok let us all take a step back and re think this

you now have 5 pages of replys and the bike is runing no better

this all happened after the FCR install and some time riding it ( like under 20 miles )

if this was my bike I would return it to stock or at the least reinstall the 36mm carb and see what happens

if that would not do the trick than I would start looking deeper into the motor ... starting at timing chain and valves

and there is always that point in time ware you take it to a shop hand them $500 telling tham to fix it wile you walk away not looking back

[RetroRanger]

cant thank you guys enough for the responses...if you ever drop by montreal, beer's are on me...

i still see a minute space between the boot and carb...but i think i made it tight enough...not sure what to do...

how big does the hole need to be (if there is one) so that additional air is bypassing though the boot and killing your idle??

thanks in advance

there should be no holes or spaces between the carb and the air boots. If there is a pic I cant see them at work so if im off base forgive me

you referenced another thread where the guy didnt have the carb in the boot all the way so Im assuming this is the problem it fits but its tight

[stringburner]

I think Ury means the boots aren't completely seated 100% on the intake bell mouth, and between the carb and cylinder. If it's only 1/16" or less, that's normal. I saw where he mentioned that before, but that's just the way it fits. Not the issue if his clamps are tight.

[urymoto]

im gonna give it a 3rd go...im gonna take it off, clamp the boot to the fornt first, then to te cylinder head, then the airboot..ill try getting new smaller clamps for tighter fit...
this idle thing makes no sense; the bikes got 1000 miles, prett new oil, good battery, AND IT RAN GOOD BEFORE!!!...i.m gonna go ride it and put new gas as well....and oil...and a new plug...
and fu$% me if this doesnt work...ill go nuts..

thanks all.ill keep you all posted.thats it for me...

[urymoto]

ok i realized the boot that connects the carb to the cylinder was not aligned as its supposed to.....ie. the bottom tab did not go in the engine block tab..
could that cause it.

i did notice that the carbs edge is eliptically shaped...so it must be important how you set the boot.am i right?

[iowaBClivewire]

yes if the carb is not installed the rite way it will have a vacume leak and run like crap

[urymoto]

ok...i just reinstalled it..it will turn on..but cant idle...why? because the idle screw has been turned out all the way.so im putting that back..

but one more thing..it will only turn on with the fuel to Prime, and the vacuum hose off the tank and cylinder head...

what does that mean

[iowaBClivewire]

fix one thing at a time

furst the idle screw

[urymoto]

it all works..!!!!!

thank you so much guys...
the most important part was that i kept going, thanks to you all. all those suggestions kept the brain working...

i think ill go change the plugs..theyve been drowning in WOT starts...and even the oil jic..

thanks

[delcbr]

i read all the posts what was the actual cause of it not idling?

[iowaBClivewire]

he did not have the boot between the carb and head on the rite way

so there was a vacume leek

but befor finding the vacume leak he blamed every thing that he could find thus scrued up every setting there was

so buy starting all over from the beginning and looking at how the individual parts fit to gether he got it runing